How to See the Black Sun (Sort Sol) in Denmark + Tips
Starting our trip to Denmark with the Black Sun tour was absolutely perfect.
We took the Black Sun (Sort Sol) tour in Denmark, and here's our full experience, along with some tips to help you enjoy the enchanting dance of starlings.
Denmark is known for many things like Lego, Hans Christian Andersen, and Vikings, but we bet the Black Sun Phenomenon isn't on your list. It wasn't on ours either until we started planning our trip to the Danish realm and heard about it for the first time. Well, it was one of the most incredible sights we've seen.
We decided to drive to Copenhagen via Germany instead of flying, and the historic town of Ribe with the nearby Wadden Sea National Park (Nationalpark Vadehavet) caught our interest first. Just across the border, they were perfect to kick off our road trip. We discovered that Vadehavet, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a resting place for migratory birds passing through Denmark twice a year. The most numerous species are the starlings, arriving in millions and creating the spectacular phenomenon known as Sort Sol (the Black Sun).
Now, starlings are pretty common not just in Denmark but also in our home country. Since spotting them in fields or even in our backyards is pretty normal, it felt a bit strange to go see something so 'ordinary.' We must admit that the idea of watching starlings didn't sound as thrilling as some of our previous adventures, like visiting Colca Canyon to see the Andean condors or observing the Gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers. But we were pretty excited anyway.
It's not fair, but the stardom of starlings isn't that huge. Jokes aside, when they form flocks of tens of thousands, they put on a fascinating show. After this experience, we started to see them in a completely different light.
We weren't sure how to plan it all, and since you landed on our post, we presume you're in the same shoes. Don't worry - enjoying the Black Sun phenomenon is quite straightforward, and we'll walk you through the whole experience!
Denmark’s Vadehavet National Park is the best spot to check out migrating starlings.
What Is the Black Sun Phenomenon?
The Black Sun is a mesmerizing phenomenon where tens and hundreds of thousands of starlings gather in a massive flock, moving as one and creating ever-changing formations in the sky. It's like watching dark, dancing clouds of birds looking for a place to roost.
One of the best places to see the Black Sun is Denmark - its wetlands and marshes, combined with its strategic location, provide an ideal resting and roosting site for starlings migrating across Europe. The best spots for viewing the Black Sun are in Southern Jutland, around Tonder, Ribe, and Ballum marshes. Some flocks can have between 1 and 1.5 million birds, so large that their mass can cover the entire sun, creating the Black Sun effect. Of course, Denmark isn't the only place to see huge flocks of starlings - you can also try your luck in places like Germany and the UK.
Taking a Black Sun Tour vs. Watching Starlings Without a Guide
The biggest decision we had to make was whether to make it easy on ourselves and take a guided tour, which pretty much guaranteed a great spot to see the starlings, or try to find a spot on our own. Keep in mind that it's still wildlife, so nothing is guaranteed. But given the circumstances, we believed that the local guides, who do this every day, would definitely have a higher chance of success than a tired duo of non-birders in a place they'd never visited (aka Lucie and me).
Since we were driving from Czechia and facing at least a 12+ hour journey, we decided not to take any risks and just go with a guide. If you're in the same situation, we recommend this approach. If you're already familiar with the area, you can go on your own (but we have a feeling you wouldn't be reading this post if that were the case).
We did the Black Sun with guides from the Wadden Sea National Park.
How to Get to Vadehavet NP
When we checked the park's official site, we had two choices for transportation: book a tour, which included a bus ride, or drive to the observation spot in our own car. Since we brought our own vehicle for our Denmark road trip, we obviously opted for the second option, but if that's not your case, it's good to know there's always this option.
No 4x4 was needed; we stayed on paved roads the entire time (though the last stretch was practically a single-lane rural road). You can compare rental car prices in Denmark here if you decide to follow in our footsteps and opt to drive around the country. It takes about three hours to get to Ribe from Copenhagen, 90 minutes from Odense, and two hours from Aarhus.
It was a quick walk on a paved road to the birding spot.
The meeting point for the tour provided by Vadehavs Centret was at the free parking lot northeast of Ribe's historical center (the exact address was P-nord, Saltgade, 6760 Ribe). Since we used our own car for the tour, we didn't have to park here, but it looked like a great place to leave your vehicle before the bus tour or if you want to explore the town of Ribe.
If you decide to see starlings on your own, you can obviously drive around the countryside, but another great option is to go by bike. Once you get to Ribe, you can rent a bike at Danhostel, for instance. This could potentially be a lovely experience.
Our Experience of the Black Sun Phenomenon
Aside from a few delays (some roadworks and a big car crash on the autobahn), our journey through Czechia and Germany was as uneventful as highway driving can be. The only problem was that we had planned an extra two hours for the drive, which we lost due to the reasons we mentioned, even before we reached the greater Hamburg area.
That was not ideal since Friday afternoon is when people leave big cities for the weekend, and traffic congestion is common. But by some sheer luck, we zoomed past Germany's largest seaport without any hiccups, giving us hope that we might actually catch the start of the tour.
With almost three hours still to go, the ETA on our GPS navigation was just a few minutes ahead of the meeting time. Lucie even called the visitor center to ask how we should proceed in case we missed the group, but while the lady on the phone was sympathetic, she didn't provide any actual help (like a phone number for the guide - she said they just use their personal phones - which was understandable, though).
Meeting Point in Ribe
Long story short, we pulled into the parking lot about five minutes before seven and had just enough time to change into something more outdoorsy. After a short briefing, we learned that today's spot was just a short drive from town, and we'd leave all together in a few minutes.
Then the guide hopped in a car, and we formed a line of (well, it wasn't that big, just about 10 or 12 cars) and headed out of town. She drove really slowly so no one could get lost, and after about 10 minutes, she pulled over to the roadside, and we continued on foot. We walked maybe 200 meters (so the car reflections wouldn't disrupt the birds).
We met up with our guide at the Ribe parking lot.
Packing Tips for the Black Sun Tour
We weren't sure what to bring, but when we saw people with their blankets (and some with picnic boxes), we took out our own (blanket, no picnic). We usually don't bring a picnic blanket, but this time, we did, initially for Jutland's beaches. It turned out it wasn't necessary since we just spent the next two hours standing (as we'd been sitting in the car all day), and this was practically the only 'exercise' we could do that day. We love traveling, but this part isn't it.
We also weren't sure what to wear for this activity, but since it was a lovely evening without any wind, we just wore sweatshirts and left our rain jackets in a daypack. Some locals were in T-shirts and shorts, but we weren't that brave. If the weather isn't on your side, make sure to have rain and windproof gear with you unless you want to feel miserable for the next couple of hours.
It was a warm, sunny day at the start of fall, and everyone was still dressed lightly for bird-watching.
Seeing the First Flocks of Starlings in Flight
Anyway, the first hour wasn't that exciting in terms of bird-watching since only a few starlings showed up. We didn't mind, though, because it was a beautiful evening, and we were just glad to finally be out of the car. Honestly, we were in the middle of the marshlands, and while the scenery was completely flat, we couldn't get enough of the pastel colors slowly appearing in the sky.
During this time, our guide shared some interesting facts about starlings, their behavior, breeding and migration habits, diet, roosting, threats, and the Black Sun. It was pretty cool to learn more about this often-overlooked bird species.
We also realized the tour was much more relaxed than we thought it would be. People from our group sat or stood on the side road, taking in the scenery and having a good time. We didn't have to walk through any marshes or wet trails since the spot was just by the road (sneakers were enough for our tour). There was another tour group that arrived by bus, but they were also very quiet and stayed a few dozen meters away, so everything was pretty chill.
Are Binoculars and Telephoto Lens Needed?
As time went on, the starlings arrived in bigger numbers and more frequently. Knowing there would be more bird-watching spots in Denmark, we brought our own binoculars this time. A big upside of traveling by car was that we could bring more stuff than we did for our Ireland road trip, where we visited the Cliffs of Moher and borrowed binoculars from one of the guys working there.
I had my compact telephoto lens - this Canon 100-500mm would be much better - so Lucie used the binoculars. Honestly, she barely used them since this experience was more about seeing the flocks, which we could easily spot with the naked eye (and we knew they were starlings). Anyway, if you're a birder, you might be able to spot other species while waiting for the starlings, so a pair of binoculars could come in handy.
Binoculars weren't really needed, but I kinda wished I had brought a longer telephoto lens.
The Black Sun
At one point, several flocks joined together, creating a giant mass of tens of thousands of starlings. Our group was pretty quiet until then, but once the flock got bigger, we could definitely feel everyone getting more excited. The flock covered a good portion of the sky, looking like a super long black spear. The best part was when the flock came right in front of us, made a few circles (unfortunately without some epic murmurations), and then dived toward their roosting spot.
One of the biggest reasons we loved the tour was that the guide picked a fantastic spot for the day. There was a large marshland in front of us, and all the starlings that flew into this area chose it as their nesting spot for the night. It was incredible since the whole show of diving starlings happened just a few dozen meters ahead of us.
It was incredible to see all those starlings roosting together.
The spectacle reminded us of flocks of blue-footed boobies dive-bombing for prey like we often spotted on our Galapagos Cruise. The main difference was that after they landed, they remained hidden in the reedbeds. If we hadn't known they were there, we'd have no idea, apart from the noise they made. It's funny how thousands of starlings were right in front of us, but once they touched the ground, they became literally invisible.
One of the biggest surprises was how quickly the starlings moved across the sky. One moment, they were tiny dots somewhere in the west just above the horizon, and the next thing we knew, they zoomed past the sun. Only a few moments later, they appeared in full force in front of us, ready to hit their roosts. It's hard to describe how fast the whole scene changed.
The Black Sun happens when swarms of migrating starlings hide the sun.
Our Final Tip
This brings us to our final thought: it's good to lower your expectations before you go since it's wildlife in the real world and not a perfectly curated documentary, as we witnessed on our trip to the Amazonian jungle or our whale-watching tour in Iceland.
We saw a fairly large number of starlings that day, and some flocks were pretty huge. But they weren't as spectacular as those we saw in nature documentaries or Youtube videos. One reason is that the most spectacular murmurations happen when birds of prey attack starlings, and there weren't any hawks or falcons around that evening to force them into their defensive behavior. They did some cool patterns when deciding on their roosting spot, but that was about it.
Secondly, the resting place was to the right of the sun, so the 'black sun' effect for us was just a very long flock flying in front of the sun, with a few murmurations against the sunless sky. Still, it was a breathtaking experience, just not as 'perfect' as on TV.
Some moments with starlings sweeping across the sky were absolutely mesmerizing.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
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Hotels in Ribe
When the sun finally disappeared behind the horizon, and no more new starlings were entering the scene, we stayed for a while longer. But as it got darker, we decided it was time to hit the road and head to our hotel.
Since we planned to visit Romo Island first thing in the morning and all the accommodation in Ribe was either too expensive or sold out, we decided to stay at Motel Sydvest in Skaerbaek. It was a bit dated but cozy and warm, with free parking, and since we were so tired, that was all we needed for the night. Another good place to stay outside Ribe is Motel Rovli in nearby Brons.
Obviously, Ribe has some good places to stay, like Hotel Dagmar or Ribe Byferie Resort. Danhostel Ribe is a great place for budget travelers who want to stay right in town.
We spent the night at a little motel a few kilometers outside of Ribe after the Black Sun tour.
Is the Black Sun Tour Worth It?
Experiencing the Black Sun was simply spectacular. If you ever get a chance to visit Vadehavet, this is an activity you shouldn't miss. Even if the flocks aren't massive, starlings can put on an incredible show with their stunning formations.
As we made our way up north through Jutland (and eventually back), we experienced a few more sunsets and were always on the lookout for starlings. It was quite funny because we joked that we could have saved money for the tickets, as we saw plenty of them the following days, but usually from a distance. Plus, since we were leaving their natural habitat behind, the flocks were never the same size as during the tour. So yes, we think the Black Sun Tour was worth it.
Black Sun Ticket
We paid 135 DKK for an adult ticket for the Black Sun Tour (with our own transport), and the price seemed pretty fair to us. We booked our tickets online through Vadehavet's official website a day in advance since Lucie was a bit nervous the tour would sell out on the day of our visit - we went on a Friday evening and weren't sure how that would affect it. Since the Black Sun Tour is one of the best things to do in Ribe (which is already super popular on its own), we didn't want to take any chances.
The bus tour was 270 DKK per adult, and besides the transportation, the only perk was that you could learn a few things about starlings on the bus (but there's plenty of time for this on the spot, so it's really only worth it for those without a car).
Booking through the official park's website got us a 20% discount on the Wadden Sea Centre, which we visited the next day. It turned out to be a great little museum with a pretty steep admission for what it offers, so we left with mixed feelings. By the way, you can easily access Mando Island from the museum with the popular tractor tour, but that's another story.
The national park isn't the only way to go on a tour to see the Black Sun - you can book your tour at various hotels or tour agencies. We found it fitting to go with the people who work at the park, but that's just us.
The Wadden Sea Centre was a great spot to learn not only about starlings but the entire national park too.
When to See the Black Sun?
The best time to experience the Black Sun (Sort Sol) phenomenon in Denmark is generally in spring - March to April - and fall - September to October. While the Black Sun happens only twice a year, the window to see it is around four months, which is quite long. Still, you definitely need some luck to experience the murmurations even during this period.
We did the tour in mid-September and saw plenty of starlings, and that's as much as we can say about it. The starlings are most active just before sunrise and sunset when they create those mesmerizing patterns in the sky, but obviously, you also need to luck out with the weather.
We went on a wonderful day with a stunning sunset - a huge sun (essential for the black sun effect), almost no clouds, and pastel evening sky colors. Remember, if the guides don't have any luck finding starlings, the weather is bad, or not enough people book the tour, it can be canceled.
We couldn't have picked a better day for the Black Sun tour - the weather was amazing.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
