How We Spent an Amazing Day of Skiing in Aletsch Arena
Skiing in Aletsch was one of our most incredible experiences during our winter trip to Switzerland.
Discover our ultimate guide to winter skiing in Aletsch Arena, Switzerland, enjoy some of the finest slopes, and see the largest glacier in the Alps!
Visiting Aletsch, the Alps' largest glacier, was on our bucket list for years, but we always imagined our first visit would be in the summer. Last year, Lucie's relatives moved to Valais, and when they invited us for a visit, we knew this was a perfect opportunity to go skiing in the Swiss Alps. At the time, we had no idea Aletsch was less than 10 kilometers from their place. Later, when I checked Google Maps, I noticed some yellow stars near their spot that Lucie had already saved years ago. Yeah, it was the Aletsch!
So, instead of our trusty hiking shoes, we put on our heavy ski boots and set off for a winter adventure! But our journey to Aletsch wasn't that easy. After spending three incredible days skiing in Zermatt and another day hitting the slopes at Saas-Fee, the weather pulled out its winter magic card. For three days, snowy and windy weather kept us off the slopes (it was not all that bad with the thermal baths nearby). By the fourth day, the weather had calmed down, and we could finally ski in Aletsch Arena!
How We Planned Our Ski Trip to Aletsch Arena
When we got down to planning our day, we discovered Aletsch Arena has four main ski areas - Hohfluh, Moosfluh, Bettmerhorn, and Eggishorn - accessible from three villages - Riederalp, Bettmeralp, and Fiescheralp, altogether offering more than 100km of slopes. At first look, all areas of this huge ski resort appeared well-connected by a nice network of lifts (at least, it looked that way to me on the map), but we were still unsure which area to pick as our starting point.
Riederalp is one of the three villages in Aletsch Arena ski resort.
All three villages are car-free and positioned up in the mountains, which means that practically the only way you can get there is by gondola, shuttle service (Aletsch Express), or taxi (snowmobiles in winter). Since we took a car and came to Aletsch for skiing, it was pretty much clear we'd take the gondola from the valley station. Taking one of the gondolas also makes the most sense if you arrive at Aletsch by train.
The only confusing bit was some of the entry point names in the valley didn't exactly match the village names (since they're different villages), which we'll dive into next. To actually get to one of those three main villages in Aletsch ski resort, you must first take a cable car from one of the three base stations at the bottom of the Rhone Valley.
The village of Morel Filet is an entry point to Riederalp, from which you can immediately start skiing at Hohfluh and Moosfluh. A few kilometers down the road is Bettmeralp Talstation (Betten), which takes you to Bettmeralp village, an access point to Moosfluh's and Bettmerhorn's slopes. Finally, Fiesch village is the entry point to Fiescheralp village, which is a starting point for pistes on Eggishorn and Bettermerhorn.
Honestly, it might sound overly complicated, but it's really not. Just think of three points in the valley that give you access to three separate villages at the base of the ski resort, which are ultimately all interconnected by a vast network of lifts and pistes. Unless you're staying overnight in one of the mountain villages, it doesn't really matter where you start your day at Aletsch - you can easily ski from one end to another and back in just a few hours.
We found that all three villages in Aletsch Arena are well-linked by lifts and slopes.
It seems like some of you aren't confused enough yet, so here's one final fun fact from Martin (kidding aside, I hope you got it - it took me ages to make it clear). The base stations at Morel Filet and Bettmeralp Talstation have two different cable cars to the mountain villages. One goes straight up, and the other stops at two tiny villages - Ried-Morel and Bettern Dorf - along the way.
Getting to Aletsch Arena
Now that we know our destination, let's figure out how to get to Aletsch. For skiing, you have two main options: by car or train. We brought our own car for this trip; here, you can check out all rental car deals in Switzerland.
Driving to Aletsch
As we already said, we stayed in Brig, which is about 8 kilometers from Morel, 11 kilometers from Bettmeralp Cable Car, and 19 kilometers from Fiesch. If you're starting in Visp, you'll have to add another 8 kilometers to each trip. When we drove this stretch, the road was fine, with two lanes and free of snow.
If you're driving from Andermatt (Lucerne, Zurich) get ready to take a car train between Realp and Oberwald through the Furka Base Tunnel since the Furka Pass is closed in winter. The train ride through a narrow, dark tunnel was quite an adventure as we'd never experienced anything like it. Similarly, you can take a car train through the Lotschberg Tunnel when arriving from Bern (two and a half hours) or Interlaken.
Lausanne is roughly two hours from Aletsch, while Geneva is about three hours away. Zermatt is about 50 kilometers from Aletsch.
Parking
All the villages within the Aletsch Arena were car-free, so we had to park in the valley. Thankfully, Aletsch is well-prepared, and we found plenty of parking spaces along the Furkastrasse. Each Valley cable car station features a spacious parking lot or garage.
We picked Bettmeralp Cable Car, which had both. The parking lot by the elevator was completely full, but the covered garage had over 70 empty spaces, mostly on the roof. Parking at Aletsch wasn't free (hourly or daily rates applied), and to make matters worse, the payment machines weren't contactless. Luckily, we had 10 francs in cash, which was exactly what we needed for the day. We found out later that payment was also possible at the ticket counter.
We parked at Bettmeralp cable car station before visiting Aletsch.
Taking a Train to Aletsch
Getting to the Aletsch area by train is incredibly easy, and unlike some other ski resorts, it's a really great way to reach this place. Swiss trains will take you pretty much to every major tourist destination, and Aletsch is no exception (and even in winter with your skis).
The best part is that the train stations at Bettmeralp Talstation and Fiesch are in the same building as the cable car station, making transfers super easy. So getting from the train to the cable car is a breeze; it just takes a few seconds (technically a bit more as walking in ski boots takes more time). Oh, the trains here have a special compartment for your ski gear - super convenient! The only catch is that trains in Switzerland are pricey, but what isn't?
Heads up! If you're departing from Lausanne, Bern, Zurich, or other big Swiss cities, expect a train switch in Brig (Brig Bahnhofplatz).
The train station and cable car station in Bettmeralp are in the same building.
Aletsch Arena Ski Passes
They sure do have a lot of ski pass options at Aletsch Arena. Since we only spent one day there, we went for the day ticket. It cost us 94 CHF for an adult. Aletsch Arena's ticket prices are on par with Zermatt and Saas-Fee, so don’t expect major savings by skiing there.
Our tip: They have dynamic prices, so the earlier you book, the cheaper the ticket will be. Also, the longer you stay, the better the deal.
Our Skiing in Aletsch Experience
We mentioned earlier that we had to wait three days to get back on the slopes. On the first morning of this period, we drove to Fiesch to check things out since the situation in the valley didn't look that bleak.
Our First Try at Skiing in Aletsch
When we got there, the ticket clerk told us that the last message she got was that the weather was getting worse fast up in the mountains, and they'd likely close the major lifts by noon. Sometimes, the forecast and real weather don't match, but this time, it did. We could see the gray dullness rolling through the valley, so we were kind of prepared but still bummed about no skiing.
So we headed back and explored the town of Brig and the local spa scene (aka Brigerbad Therme with its lovely saunas and incredible grotto) in the following days. Day four brought clear weather, and we finally hit the slopes for a full day in Aletsch Arena (technically, that was for us a day eight or something like that in Switzerland, but that's not important).
Arriving at Betten/Bettmeralp Cable Car
This time, we parked at the Bettmeralp cable car that goes to Bettmeralp, the village in the middle of the resort. We figured the middle village is best for access to all lifts and slopes, and it'd be easier to get back to the car if the weather turned bad (luckily, it didn't).
The parking lot in front of the base cable car station was full, so we had to enter the multistorey parking garage and leave our vehicle there (there's a handy loading area near the elevator that's perfect if you've got luggage). We used the elevator from the parking lot to the station, saving us a climb and avoiding the main road.
We didn’t booked our tickets in advance like in Zermatt and Saas-Fee, so we went straight to the counter and got a full-day ski pass for Aletsch Arena. The boarding area was just down the hallway, but we had to wait about 20 minutes for the next cable car, as they ran every 30 minutes.
Important note: So, here's a funny story from our second visit the next year. Make sure you get the ticket that includes the cable car ride from the valley to the ski resort, not just the ski pass (they call it a ski pass with a feeder lift on the official website). Otherwise, you won't be able to go through the turnstile at the base station. You don't even want to know how we learned it. Well, okay, I'll tell you: we accidentally booked just the ski pass without the cable car and had to buy it separately at the station for an extra 20 CHF (I won't name names in our two-person group, right Lucie?).
We got to enjoy awesome views on the 10-minute ride up to Bettmeralp.
Hitting the Slopes at Moosfluh and Hohfluh in the Morning
Anyway, the journey to Bettmeralp took only about 10 minutes (by the way, it's the same situation in Fiesch and Morel). Once we disembarked, we walked for about three minutes to Blausee lift (the combination of moving walkway and escalator helped a bit).
The easy slopes at Blausee were the perfect way to start our day in Aletsch.
We spent the first couple of hours exploring the slopes of Moosfluh (2333m) and Hohfluh (2227m), which both offer stunning views of the Aletsch Glacier. The first few runs on perfectly groomed slopes were great, but we knew we had to keep moving to explore the whole resort - given that our plan was to cover the whole Gletscher Panorama Tour in a single day. The blue Piste 12/41 (easy difficulty) was a perfect way to kick off our Aletsch adventure and get those muscles warmed up!
By the way, we visited Aletsch just before Christmas in December, and it was surprising to see a relatively low number of skiers around. Not that we minded - it was fantastic not to deal with lift lines and ski on less crowded slopes. January and February are peak months at Aletsch Arena, so keep that in mind when planning your skiing trip.
We got our first look at the Aletsch Glacier from Moosfluh.
Skiing at Bettmerhorn
So eventually, we made it to Bettmerhorn (2647m), which has a lovely restaurant with panoramic views and another glacier viewpoint. The main viewing platform at Bettmerhorn was slightly off the piste but easily reached on skis (some people made this short journey on foot). After soaking in the incredible views, we returned to the slope and headed down to Bettmeralp. The Bettmerhorn cable car was hands down our favorite in Aletsch. The views were amazing, and the covered seats were perfect for resting those tired legs.
After skiing for a bit, we were treated to another view of the Aletsch Glacier, this time from Bettmerhorn.
Taking a Cable Car to Eggishorn (and Back)
In the afternoon, we finally made our way to Fiescheralp from Bettmerhorn, from where we took an aerial tramway to Eggishorn, at 2869 meters above sea level, the highest point of Aletsch Arena (technically, Eggishorn's summit is 2926m, but that's just a detail). We could enjoy more views of Aletsch Glacier, this time just from another angle. Every viewpoint has its charm, making picking a favorite hard, but Eggishorn is a must-see.
The views of Aletsch Glacier from Eggishorn were simply breathtaking.
The only downside of this side trip was that since it was still early in the season, the only slope (a black piste) that would allow us to ski down from Eggishorn back to Fiescheralp was still closed (we left our skis at the rack by the station). Taking the aerial tramway back down to Fiescheralp was only a slight inconvenience since we could enjoy more views along the way.
Afternoon Skiing in Fiescheralp (and Return to Bettmeralp)
We did a few runs around Tallega and Fiesch lifts but eventually had to make our way back. Aletsch Arena is open from early December to mid-April; opening times are 9 AM to 4:30 PM. Unlike other Swiss ski resorts we've visited, the main cable cars between the resort and valley stations operate almost all day (Bettmeralp cable car ran between 5:50 AM and 9:50 PM when we were there).
Once we got back to Bettmeralp, we took the cable car back to the valley, loaded our skis into our car, and drove to our place.
Skiing on the wide, open slopes of Fiescheralp was fun.
Aletsch Has a South-facing Slopes
There were two more things we learned about Aletsch that day. The Aletsch Arena's south-facing slopes meant the sunny afternoon wasn't as good for skiing as in the morning. The slopes softened to slush under the sun's warmth, though we think it was still better than springtime conditions. Anyway, we recommend starting early in the morning to have the best experience.
Aletsch Is a Family-Friendly Ski Resort
The other thing we found Aletsch to be a more family-friendly resort, with slopes ranging mainly from easy to intermediate. There weren't as many difficult runs as in Saas-Fee, which was good for us since it was our last day of skiing, and we were quite tired (it seemed the three-day involuntary rest took more of a toll on our muscles than expected).
Aletsch Arena has an awesome mix of blue and red pistes.
Travel Insurance
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Visiting Aletsch Glacier in Winter (No Skiing)
By the way, you can definitely see Aletsch Glacier in winter, even if you don't plan skiing. There's no entry fee to Aletsch Glacier per se, but since you need to take a fairly expensive cable car to the top, be prepared that this won't be a budget-friendly experience. We're fairly sure Eggishorn is likely the top winter viewpoint of Aletsch, offering the highest vantage point to see the glacier. At almost 3000 meters, the weather can differ drastically from the valley. Even though it's a short walk from Eggishorn summit station to Aletsch viewpoint, it can be chilly and windy. Bundle up with warm clothes and winter boots to fully enjoy your trip.
If on-piste skiing isn't for you, the Aletsch Arena has plenty of other winter activities, including cross-country skiing, back-country skiing, sledding, snowshoeing, and more (there are also more villages like Fieschetal, Lax, etc.).
Aletsch viewpoint at Eggishorn is close to the cable car station, so it's totally doable for non-skiers even in winter.
Where to stay in Aletsch Arena
There are lots of places to stay around Aletsch Arena, but we'll just focus on the villages that are within this big ski resort. To make things easier, we'll just say that you can choose from two villages in the valley - Morel Filet and Fiesch - and the three villages up in the mountains - Riederalp, Bettmeralp, and Fiescheralp. Hands down, these villages give you the best access to skiing in Aletsch, and it's up to you whether you want to stay close to the slopes or don't mind spending a night in the valley.
Just know that most accommodations are apartments, and you won't find traditional big hotels here. The second essential tip when it comes to accommodation in Aletsch is that you need to book ahead since this is one of the premier Swiss destinations, and hotels tend to fill up fast (and if you want to get a somewhat decent price).
As the situation with apartments is fairly chaotic (no reviews, new profiles, etc.), we aimed to put together a list of hotels and guesthouses in Aletsch that are well-established.
Aletsch ski resort accommodations are on the pricey side.
Hotels in Fiesch
For a good deal, check out Hotel Derby. It's a favorite in Fiesch, offering a great breakfast buffet, a peaceful location just five minutes from the cable car, and reasonable rates. Another great option is Hotel Park, just a 5-minute walk from the cable car. It's basic, clean, and offers a good breakfast.
Hotels in Fiescheralp
If you're looking for a hotel with ski-to-door access, a sauna, and cozy rooms, Hotel Jungfrau is a perfect choice. Another extremely popular accommodation in Fiescheralp is Alpenlodge Kuhboden, located right next to the cable car - expect spacious rooms, good food, and comfy beds.
There are tons of apartments and guesthouses at Aletsch Arena where you can ski right to your door.
Hotels in Bettmeralp
For those who want to stay in Bettmeralp, the Hotel Le Postillion is a solid choice. It's a traditional alpine-style hotel with ski-to-door access, rooms with balconies, and amazing views.
Another popular place to stay in Bettmeralp is Hotel Alpfrieden. It has a buffet breakfast, ski-to-door access, and comfortable rooms. Finally, Imhof Alpine B&B is a charming guesthouse with clean, homey rooms and postcard-perfect views of the little church framed by mountains.
Hotel Slalom offers typical Swiss accommodation with incredible views, a central location in Bettmeralp, and cozy rooms.
Hotels in Morel
Badehotel Salina Maris is located in the valley, about a 10-minute walk from the cable car (there's also a free ski shuttle in winter). Salina Maris's highlight is its lovely wellness facilities, which are ideal for unwinding after hitting the slopes.
Hotels in Riederalp
Conveniently located right next to the cable car, Haus Sportina has functional, spacious rooms with a well-equipped kitchen and amazing views.
Hotels in Brig and Visp
Being based in Brig, Aletsch was only a short drive for us. We couldn't be happier with this spot. Brig and nearby Visp have some decent hotels, but their main perk is their great location for day trips to Zermatt, Saas-Fee, Aletsch, etc. You can stick to one place and explore a bunch of awesome spots nearby - plus, both towns have railway access. Good Night Inn (Brig) and Baxter Hotel (Visp) offer all the comforts you need away from home at affordable rates.
Is One Day Skiing Enough for Aletsch Arena?
With over 100 kilometers of slopes, there was so much to see at Aletsch, especially since we only had one day. As with all our ski trips in Valais, we started early in the morning and left about half an hour before the last ride. Firstly, we tried to make the most of the great weather and fantastic skiing conditions at Aletsch Arena. Also, Lucie and I like to stay active on our ski trips, and since we were stuck for three days in our room, we went all out.
Finally, the day ticket wasn't cheap, so we didn't want to waste any time. All in all, one day was enough to check out all three parts of Aletsch Arena, but we wished we had two or three days since some slopes were so cool, and we didn't get to do more than a few runs on each.
You could definitely spend more time at Aletsch (why not a whole week?), but we also highly recommend visiting the amazing Zermatt/Cervinia and Saas-Fee ski resorts while you're around! If that's not enough, some of our other favorite ski resorts in the Swiss Alps include Crans Montana and 4 Vallees.
Since it was a clear day, we could even spot the Matterhorn from Aletsch Arena (it's on the right).
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
