A Complete Guide to Jerash Ruins in Jordan
Less than an hour drive from Amman lies Jerash, famous for the remnants of Roman ruins. One of the most visited attractions in Jordan deserves your attention thanks to well-preserved architecture from the Roman times. Read our travel guide on the best things to see in Jerash, including tips on how to get to Jerash, how much things cost, and where to stay.
Jerash, also known under the ancient name Gerasa, is a quite large city only fifty kilometers from the capital city of Amman, and at first sight, we would have never guessed that it is home to one of the most intriguing Roman ruins outside Italy.
Actually, before our journey to Jordan, we did not realize that the Roman civilization had such a big impact on the country's history and architecture.
And visiting not only Jerash but also other sites such as Mukawir or Umm ar-Rasas, just to name a few, was an eye-opener.
We arrived in Jerash after dark, after we had spent all day on the road. It was actually a very long day.
We started in Wadi Rum, drove along the Dead Sea Highway to as-Salt via wonderful and blooming Jordan Valley, and we planned on visiting Jerash the next day in the morning.
When we woke up, we were quite surprised when we found out that the ruins are right in the middle of the city and that we already drove around it the day before.
We do not know why, but we always imagined those ruins to be in the abandoned part of the city somewhere, where life stopped centuries ago. But the entrance to Jerash ruins is actually just off the busy street full of cars and lined with restaurants.
Fortunately, the noise from the bustling city dies out as soon as you enter the complex, and thanks to the fact that the ruins are large (you will need at least three to four hours just to walk around), you will soon be transferred into the ancient times.
The Roman ruins of Jerash are relatively well-preserved, and also thanks to its proximity to the capital, the site is, after the Lost City of Petra, the second most visited place in Jordan.
That means Jerash is not an off the beaten path place, but very touristy attraction popular with tour groups.
But if you start your day early, you will have the place almost for yourself, and you will wander around the temples, water fountains, plazas, theatres, columns, and arches.
In this travel guide, we will share with you tips on the best things you can see in Jerash Roman ruins, and practical information on the best time to visit, how to get, what to pack, opening hours, ticket cost, and much more.
It is no secret that we enjoyed Jerash to the fullest, and hopefully, this post will inspire you to put Jerash ruins on your Jordan itinerary and travel bucket list.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF JERASH
Although Jerash was inhabited since the Neolithic period (excavations found evidence of inhabitation dating back to 7500 BC) and throughout the Bronze Age, the city started to thrive with the arrival of Roman civilization.
After the Roman conquest in 64 BC, Jerash, at that time Gerasa, became a part of the Roman province of Syria. The city flourished from the very beginning, not only because of the fertile soil but also because of the trade with Nabateans traveling around Jerash from Petra.
Jerash thrived the most between the 1st and the 7th century when most of the structures were built and the city got its final shape.
In its heyday in the 3rd century, 20 000 people lived in Jerash.
The city's decline is closely connected with the earthquake in 747, and although it was not abandoned (yet), many people left, and Jerash lost its importance.
In the 12th century, Jerash was converted into Crusader garrison, but then it was completely abandoned, and the site was rediscovered again in the 19th century when also the restoration works started.
Here is an extra tip, if you are interested in Crusader’s history, you might want to also visit Karak Castle along the famous King’s Highway while road tripping Jordan.
OPENING HOURS
Jerash opening hours vary throughout the year. In winter, between November and March, the site opens at 8 AM and closes at 4 PM, in the summer, it is possible to stay in Jerash until 8 PM.
Opening hours vary during Ramadan and on Fridays and national holidays, when the site closes earlier regardless if it is summer or winter, usually around 4 PM.
JERASH TICKETS
The entrance fee to Jerash for foreigners is quite steep, 12 JD, therefore, it is worth it to purchase Jordan Pass before the arrival in the country.
Thanks to the pass your visa fees will be waived, and your ticket to most of the major sites in the country will be covered, including the one to Jerash ruins.
The only thing you must do is to print out the Jordan Pass (it should be enough to show it on the mobile screen) and bring it with you.
We even did not have to show it, the guy in the ticket office only asked us if we had it, and our nod was enough to be let in.
Before you will get to the ticket office, you must walk through a hall with many souvenir shops. This was probably the only place in Jordan where the sellers were pushy.
Even though it was really early, some of the vendors tried to tie the traditional scarf keffiyeh around our heads as we walked around so we rather walked fast as we were not interested in shopping.
You will also find here free toilets.
BEST THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN JERASH
The ruins are spread out, and even though we did not have a map with us, navigating around the ruins was easy, and we did not have a feeling we missed anything.
There are so many incredible things to see in Jerash, but here are some of the most notable ones.
Hadrian's Arch
The first thing we saw when we entered the complex was the famous Hadrian's Arch, and it was truly a spectacular introduction to the Jerash Ruins. This arch was built in 129 to celebrate Emperor Hadrian's visit but is impressive even many centuries later.
Here we understood that getting up early was a wise decision, and we could enjoy the site without crowds.
Hippodrome
We walked through the arch and walked along Hippodrome, which is one of the biggest sites in Jerash. Hippodrome once seated around 15 000 people and was used for horse races and other sports.
South Gate
Then we continued along a road lined with several remnants to the South Gate.
Here we had to show our tickets again, and the guy unlocked the big wooden doors for us, as we were the first tourists to enter the complex that day.
Forum
In a few minutes, we reached the Forum. Forum is one of the most photographed sights in Jerash, and it is easy to see why. It is an oval-shaped plaza lined with many columns, and you cannot miss it.
Here, you can decide if you go right to Cardo Maximus, the main street in the city, or left.
We decided to go left first, and basically walked around the whole complex and returned via Cardo Maximus on the way back to the entrance.
Zeus Temple
We climbed to Zeus Temple. Although the temple was destroyed and now we can imagine its former grandeur, the views from here are well worth it.
South Theatre
Our next stop was South Theatre. It is a semi-circular structure that once hosted around 2000 people.
You can climb to the highest rows of the theatre, but it is also interesting to stand in the middle of the stage and appreciate how the architecture was designed to make an echo, so everyone in the theatre could hear everything.
Peter and Paul Church
Then we walked along the northern part of Jerash, along Peter and Paul Church, Saint Theodore, Saint Genesius and Three Churches, until we reached Artemis Temple.
Temple of Artemis
Similar as in Madaba, there is a nice mosaic in the Byzantine church.
Temple of Artemis is valued for its high Corinthian columns - 11 out of 12 original columns still can be seen here.
Northern Theatre
Inside the temple is a small stall where a guy boils water for tea and sells souvenirs. Then we carried on to the Northern Theatre. It is a bit smaller than Southern Theatre, but it will give you an insight into the life of Romans, who truly must have loved the culture.
North Gate
Then we took a quick walk to the North Gate, and it was time to walk the Cardo Maximus.
Cardo Maximus
This street is lined with many columns and wonderful architecture. It is not possible to name everything, but the most notable things are the Cathedral or Nymphaeum, which served as a water fountain.
Of course, the sights we've mentioned are only reference points, the best and most notable things to see in Jerash.
But you will walk around many more structures, which maybe do not stand out in such a particular way, but they were important for the everyday life of the city.
We talk here about churches (later also mosques), water fountains, drainage systems or baths.
Just take your time and explore Jerash Roman ruins at your own pace.
WHERE TO STAY WHEN VISITING JERASH
Even though most of the travelers visit Jerash only on a one-day trip from Amman, the city offers a large selection of hotels.
We stayed only three minutes' drive from the entrance to the ruins in a friendly hostel, but you can also spend a night in the capital, or even near the Dead Sea.
We found staying in Jerash quite comfortable because we could start the sightseeing early in the morning without the crowds.
We've handpicked one hotel in each location where we think you might have on your itinerary before visiting Jerash Roman ruins.
Jerash | Full Panorama To Archaeological Site Jerash - Family guesthouse located in a quiet residential area with nice modern rooms, welcoming host, and great location next to Jerash Ruins. Parking is available on the street in front of the hotel.
Amman | Gallery Guest House - We stayed in this hotel for a couple of days, and really enjoyed clean, air-conditioned, and quiet rooms, lovely breakfast, and helpful staff. This hotel is located a walking distance to Amman Citadel, super popular Hashem Restaurant, or Rainbow Street. Great value for money. Free parking on the street in front of the hotel.
Dead Sea | Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea - A luxurious resort offering top services on the shore of the Dead Sea is a top pick for travelers looking for a peaceful retreat.
HOW TO GET TO JERASH
Jerash is easily accessible, and even though public transport usually is not the best way how to get around the country, it works pretty well here between Amman and Jerash.
If you are traveling to Jerash from other destinations, rental car, taxi, or a tour might be a better idea. Read this blog post for more information on driving in Jordan.
Here are the best ways how you can get to Jerash.
Rental Car
Getting around Jordan by rental car is the most popular way of transport because this option gives travelers the freedom to visit also places that are not on the main tourist trail.
Even though you do not need a car to get to Jerash when traveling from Amman, we think you need it if you plan on getting to the city from other destinations, which are not that well connected. Several highways lead to Jerash, so it is easy to get there from whatever destination you are traveling from.
Parking at Jerash Roman ruins is free.
The most convenient place where to rent a car in Jordan is Queen Alia International Airport.
But you can rent it also in the downtown of Amman, in case you decide to do a road-trip to Jerash later.
Public Transport
It is possible to get to Jerash from Amman, but there is also a service from the northern city of Irbid and Ajloun. But since most of the travelers will visit Amman from Jerash on a one-day trip, here is a more detailed direction.
In Amman, get to the northern bus terminal called Tabarbour. From here frequent buses go to Jerash, the only downside is that the bus leaves when full.
So it is better to arrive early in the morning, especially if you plan on doing the one-day trip and will need to get back to Amman later.
The journey takes less than an hour, and you should not pay more than 2 JD per ride. In Jerash, the bus stops only a short walk from the ruins.
Taxi
If you do not have a car and getting to Jerash by bus seems too time-consuming, there is another option, hiring a driver. It is for sure more comfortable to travel to Jerash by taxi, but also more expensive, so it might be better for a group of friends traveling together who can share the cost.
One-way will set you back around 20 JD, but you will most likely be asked for more, so bargain until the price seems fair to you.
Although you can ask the driver to wait for you, it will be much cheaper to flag down a different car on your way back.
Tour
Another way how to get to Jerash is by booking a Jerash Tour from Amman.
The advantage is that the driver is also a guide, so this option is great for those of you who also want to learn more about the history of the site and architecture.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT JERASH
Often, when we were searching for photos of various ruins, we noticed that they stand in a parched landscape, and therefore the beauty of the ruins does not stand out as it could.
We mean really on the photos, we know that seeing the ancient architecture in person is very different.
But it was not the case of Jerash in spring. The city is close to the Jordan Valley, the soil here is famous for its fertility, and the whole area was in bloom.
If we should recommend you the best time to visit Jordan, when the ruins are the most picturesque, based on our experience, it would be March till May as the flowers really highlighted the site's beauty.
But it is possible to visit Jerash in other months too, and we believe your experience will be similarly mind-blowing.
Summer in Jordan is hot, and because there is almost no shade, your time here can be a bit challenging (start early in the morning and then take a rest at noon). It also rarely rains.
In autumn the high temperatures finally get to normal, and the country is a bit greener again, thanks to irregular rain.
Winter in Jerash is cold, it is the rainiest time of the year, but you can enjoy the visit the same as in other months, but it is recommended to arrive well-equipped.
WHAT TO PACK
And what should you pack for visiting Jerash? A comfortable small daypack where you will have a camera and a water bottle.
Then we recommend you pack sunscreen, lip balm and a sarong to cover your head because of the sun.
Although Jerash is an open area, you still should dress respectfully and have your shoulders and knees covered.
The most comfortable clothes for visiting Jerash would be loose linen pants, travel pants or jeans, a functional t-shirt with long sleeves.
And depending on the season, also fleece jacket or even down jacket in winter.
If you arrived in Jerash by car, you can leave some stuff in the car's trunk, and get it when necessary.
Umbrella or rain jacket should be in your backpack as well.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
