Mukawir: Exploring Ruins along the King's Highway
Mukawir, ancient ruins on the top of the hill overlooking the Dead Sea, is a short detour from Jordan's King's Highway, and many travelers decide not to visit it due to lack of time. Is Mukawir (also known as Machareus) worth visiting? How to get to Mukawir? How much does it cost? We have the answers.
Perched atop 1100 meters high hill, the Mukawir Ruins was one of our favorite places we visited along the iconic King's Highway, a road connecting Madaba with Wadi Musa alias Petra.
And honestly, it was not because of the ruins (you need quite a lot of imagination here), but because of the wonderful settings.
No wonder that a fortress was built here more than 2000 years ago, the views are breathtaking.
When we turned off from the main road number 35 to the side road leading to Mukawir, we felt a bit uneasy. First of all, we did not see any other tourists around, so we started wondering whether this site is worth visiting.
Also, we knew we have a long day ahead of us, and at the beginning of March the sun goes down still quite early, and we did not want to miss other well-known attractions along the way, such as Karak Castle or Al Lahun.
But once we passed the village of Mukawir (it is such a small settlement we at first did not realize this is that village) and Mukawir hill with the Roman columns on the top appeared in front of us, we knew this trip was definitely worthwhile.
Mukawir and the views from the top are very photogenic, so have your camera ready.
EXPLORING MUKAWIR
When we were getting nearer to Mukawir, we started stopping along the road more frequently.
The views of the rural countryside and sweeping hills to the Dead Sea were exceptional. And then, we finally reached the parking lot. There was no other car except one which belonged to a guard.
We paid the entrance fee, and through a small door got on the trail which leads to the hill.
First, not very well-maintained stairs led us down until we reached a wider path that looked pretty new. On the left side of the hill, we could see tents of shepherds who live in the area.
We continued and started to climb the hill.
But before you start ascending, it is worth noticing a narrow unofficial path to the right which will take you to caves carved into the base of the hill.
One of the caves is allegedly a place where was beheaded John the Baptist.
We returned to the main trail, which took us to the top of the hill. The climb is not that hard and that long, it should not take you longer than 15 minutes.
Once we reached the top, we walked around the ruins (there are no information signs, so use your imagination) which consists of remains of buildings, defensive walls, and water wells.
The most photogenic part of the ruins are columns, but they have been reconstructed though. If you like Roman columns, make sure to also visit Jerash north of Amman.
We really enjoyed this place which was enhanced by the fact we were the only ones there. It took us approximately one hour to fully explore the site (this time includes the climb and the way back to the parking lot).
When we came back to the parking lot, we found out the money collector was gone (it was nearly lunchtime), so we started the engine and set off for the next destination on our list, Umm ar-Rasas ruins.
HISTORY OF MUKAWIR
Because of its location and the fact that the hill of Mukawir is 700 meters high, it did not take long until people passing by the area realized that it can be used for military purposes.
That's why very early, around 90 BC, the Hasmonean King, Alexander Jannaesus used the strategic location and built here a fortress to prevent invasions.
Despite this great location, the fortress was destroyed in 57 BC but later rebuilt by Herod the Great in 30 BC.
Nowadays, the ruins are even called after this significant person, Castle of Herod the Great. When Herod the Great died, the rule was passed to his son Herod Antipas, who was in charge of the fortress till 39 AD.
It was also Herod Antipas who allegedly imprisoned at Machareus John the Baptist and beheaded him.
Even the Bible refers to this execution (the place is also sometimes nicknamed Castle of the Gallows) and Machareus alias Mukawir is known for this event the same as for the fact that it was on this fortress where Salome reputably danced for the head of John the Baptist to take revenge.
A few years later, in 72 AD, a Roman commander advanced on Machereus and defeated the Jews living in the fortress. He spared the people, but the fortress was destroyed, only the foundations were left intact.
The fortress on the hill was discovered in 1807, but the proper excavations started in 1968.
ENTRANCE FEE TO MUKAWIR
The site of Mukawir is not included in the Jordan Pass (although we definitely recommend you to buy it before your travels in Jordan), so expect to pay 1.5 JD per person to enter the ruins.
Mukawir is usually open 8 AM to 6 PM every day, but as the site is not really heavily trafficked, it can happen, that the money collector will be nowhere around.
Wait a bit, someone will surely appear shortly. If not, go to the site, the doors should be open, and pay later.
HOW TO GET TO MUKAWIR
It is necessary to say here that public transport in Jordan, especially along King's Highway is almost non-existent, and getting to Mukawir for people without a rental car can be a bit problematic.
That's why the most popular way how to get around the country and how to reach some of the top attractions is by rental car.
This is also the way we had opted for. In the morning, we left Madaba, traveled to Mount Nebo, and then our next stop was Mukawir.
Mukawir (you can often find it on the map under the name Machareus) lies 45 minutes' drive (34 kilometers) from Madaba.
Follow road number 35 (King's Highway) to the south, and after approximately 14 kilometers, when you reach a small village called Libb (15 minutes drive), turn right. This road will lead you directly to the parking lot of Mukawir ruins.
Since traveling along King's Highway to Petra takes quite a lot of time, it is good to know that the detour will take you approximately one hour plus the time spent on the hilltop.
Also make sure to read our post on driving in Jordan.
For those of you without a rental car, there is either a possibility to hire a driver in Amman or Madaba (or any other destination you are traveling from) who will gladly take you to the site (do not forget to bargain a bit for a better price).
You can also join a Mukawir Tour from Amman, which includes the visit of Madaba, Mount Nebo, and Mukawir.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
WHERE TO STAY WHEN VISITING MUKAWIR
The closest place to stay before or after visiting Mukawir is either the city of Madaba or one of the resort hotels near the Dead Sea.
We saw that one hotel is being built in Mukawir, but it did not look that they will complete it anytime soon.
We've handpicked three best hotels for you in Madaba and one in the Dead Sea area to make your travels easier.
Budget | Madaba Hotel - This recently renovated hotel offers great service for budget travelers. One of the top features is the location, only meters away from Madaba's best attraction, St. George's Church.
Mid-range | Grand Hotel Madaba - We stayed in this hotel, and for the price, we possibly could not choose a better place. Rooms are clean, the bathroom is modernly furnished and the selection of breakfast is great. This hotel is about five minutes walk from the city center and offers parking on the street. The staff in the hotel was friendly and super-helpful.
Mid-range | Mosaic City Hotel - Great location, friendly atmosphere, tasty breakfast, and helpful staff are the main features in this hotel. It is worth it to ask for a room with a balcony facing the garden.
Luxury | Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea - A luxurious resort offering top services on the shore of the Dead Sea is a top pick for travelers looking for a peaceful retreat.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
