Perhentian Islands, Malaysia: A Complete Travel Guide
Are you looking for a complete travel guide and honest opinion on Perhentian Islands, Malaysia? Great, read our travel blog post, including the best things to do in the Perhentian Islands, tips on where to stay, top beaches, how to get there, and safety advice.
Perhentian Islands is a beautiful archipelago with cliche white-sand beaches, coconut palms, and turquoise waters, in Malaysia on the east coast of the country.
The islands have been a perfect tropical holiday destination for years now, and even today attract backpackers, tourists, and vacationers from all over the world every year.
Perhentians are one of the most popular beach destinations in both Malaysia and South East Asia, and many travelers include this place unmistakeably in their perfect Malaysia itinerary. Including us.
Who would not want to see the real paradise with own eyes, right? When traveling, we always think there is never enough of relaxing on the beach, and Perhentians was simply the place we could not miss out.
Perhentians are one of those places where the time moves slowly, and you can just chill out on the beach, snorkel, scuba dive, have a drink, or sleep in the hammock. It's a perfect getaway from the hectic life of Malaysia mainland for beach enthusiasts, adventure seekers, nature lovers, and those who love water sports and underwater life.
We remember coming from the ice-cold streets of Prague to sun-drenched beaches in Perhentian Islands like it was yesterday. We always have that thrilling feeling when we leave our home country in the middle of winter to warm up our bones.
This is what makes traveling to a tropical island in the wintertime, for us, Europeans, so special and desirable.
In this travel guide, we will break down what to expect from the Perhentian Islands, top things to do, share with you tips on how to get there, best hotels in Perhentians, what to pack, when to visit, and much more.
Let's dive into it.
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
It's widely known that the Perhentian Islands used to be an unspoiled paradise in the South China sea for a very long time.
It was the place to come and have a good time under palm trees in a relaxed manner. A place that was almost impossible to compare with other beach destinations. It shows how stunning and exceptional the Perhentians were.
However, a lot has changed in the past ten years, and nowadays you can hear mixed opinions from people who'd been there, so we would like to share with you our honest opinion how we feel about the destination, so you can make your best decision whether you want to visit the archipelago or not, as we would like to save you from a possible disappointment.
If you are looking for off beaten path destination with beautiful sandy beaches without bungalows, without crowds, if you want to enjoy the secluded vibe that allows you to forget that the outside world exists, peaceful atmosphere, and all that for five dollars per night, then we must tell you, that Perhentians are not that kind of place anymore.
Usually, when you read about a travel destination described by admiring words such as unspoiled, paradise, heaven, offbeat, then you probably set your expectations high before your visit. Like extremely high.
Although some positive elements cannot be taken away from the Perhentians, the truth is, that even though it is still the top beach destination in Malaysia, the popularity has taken its toll.
And also the fact, that Perhentians are easily accessible from the mainland allowed thousands of travelers to explore the place in the past few years, which has definitely changed the essence of this destination.
Perhentians are also one of those places where the local community discovered the potential of tourism, and now, they have a kind of a hard time to cope with the consequences.
You will find rubbish around, dead coral, new hotels being built, noisy beaches, and so on. This is unfortunate, though not very surprising. You need to take into account, that tourists have already discovered Perhentians.
We know, not a very positive start to introduce a travel destination, but it's all not that bad, and there are still reasons to come and visit the Perhentians.
There is no road, no shopping malls or huge resorts yet, and the beautiful nature is still there.
KECIL OR BESAR - HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT ISLAND
No matter how much time you will spend on planning your trip to Perhentian Islands, you will sooner or later end up with one inevitable question which must be answered first.
Kecil or Besar?
There are two main islands - Kecil is usually known as the Small Island, and Besar as the Big Island.
However, by looking at the map, you will quickly realize, that they are quite similar when it comes to their actual size, but these names are deep-seated, and no one finds it weird anymore.
Does that mean that Kecil is Besar's underdeveloped little brother with cheaper hotels and a more relaxed vibe? Not really. Kecil island is the one on the left and has basically two main beaches, where you will find also the majority of the accommodation.
Kecil's Long Beach (that's the long beach on the east side from where you can see Besar) is now packed with hotels and has a quite noisy nightlife (for Perhentian standards, of course).
Also, the beach and the surroundings are not sometimes clean as you would wish (however, this is sadly common everywhere in South East Asia), but this island is still more popular, especially among backpackers and budget travelers despite increasing prices for food and accommodation.
Besar, on the other hand, is slightly more expensive with more luxury hotels, though you'll find quite expensive rooms on Kecil too, and we think that you will spend about the same on both islands in the end.
At the moment, Kecil has a bit more laidback atmosphere, which is usually preferable by couples, who do not arrive in the Perhentians to party hard. If you have more time, you can stay on both islands for a couple of days, and you'll see which island suits your needs better.
If you are looking to save money on accommodation, you might find a cheap bed on spot on Long Beach.
We decided to stay on Kecil at first, and when we arrived after a short bumpy ride, we jumped off from the ferry at the Coral Bay and started to look around for a hotel as we haven't booked anything in advance.
We found a fairly cheap basic room immediately, and as the sun was getting high, we decided to hike to Long Beach, which was only a few minutes away to take a dip in the sea.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
Despite the recent development, Perhentians are still quite underdeveloped islands, at least compared to Langkawi or Penang.
It means that it's still a traditional beach destination with just a few things to do. Perhentians are all about sunbathing, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and on the long weekends, partying.
It's not much, but it's enough to keep you occupied for at least a few days.
Here are the best things to do in the Perhentians.
SNORKELING
As on Tioman, our snorkeling trip was the absolute highlight of our stay.
We went to the Shark Point, Turtle Point, and some others, and were absolutely stunned by the underwater life. It's not unusual to see black-tip reef sharks, stingrays or turtles in these spots.
You can arrange your boat trip directly at your hotel (everyone on the islands knows someone who has a boat), or you can easily find a tour operator on the beach.
The local guides know the island and its surroundings better than anyone, can take you to the best snorkeling spots, and point out the most interesting fish in the water. If you like snorkeling but didn't bring gear with you, you can rent it on the spot.
For safety reasons, always ask locals, where it's ok to swim, and look out for strong currents.
Simply put, snorkeling in Perhentians is a must-do activity. Period.
SCUBA DIVING
Many people choose South East Asia as their first scuba diving destination for several reasons.
Underwater life is outstanding, and the price for the experience is very small compared to other countries. Scuba diving in Perhentians is the favorite activity, and we can clearly see why, as there are more than twenty dive sites you can explore.
There are also a couple of cool sunken shipwrecks scattered around the islands such as the Sugar Wreck or Vietnamese Wreck. We swam around the wrecks in the Philippines, and can only recommend it, as the experience was very mysterious.
BEACHES
White-sand beaches in Perhentian Islands are the epitome of post-card tropical beaches.
The best beach in Perhentian Islands si no longer the famous Long Beach, at least for people who like quiet laidback beaches, so if you want to stay away from crowds, you have to look around.
You can still find more relaxed beaches on the islands, but you have to usually hike, kayak or take a tour to get there.
We discovered one of the best beaches in the Perhentian Islands on a boat tour, as there were almost no people, and the sand was just incredible. We won’t tell you the name though, it is the part of the adventure to find your preferred beach.
KAYAKING
Exploring the tropical archipelago on kayaks is one of our favorite things to do, and we were happy to find out that Perhentians also offer this activity.
We rented a kayak from one of the shops near the place we stayed and spent a wonderful afternoon paddling in calm waters around the island.
We love kayaking for several reasons, it's fun, a great exercise for your upper body, it's an adventure, and every time you get a quite different experience, and on top of that, you can spend your time actively, in case you are a bit bored from lazing on the beach.
WILDLIFE
When walking around the island, you can spot monkeys, squirrels, spiders, birds, and monitor lizards.
These lizards are large, they can reach up to one meter and a half, and they like to come out on the beach and live near human dwellings. There are snakes in the Perhentians too, though it's very rare to spot them.
There is much more to see underwater, and though the coral bleaching and damaging is real, we saw reef sharks, turtle, stingrays, and plenty of colorful coral fish, which proved us the sitation is not that hopeless.
HIKING
Many short trails zigzag both islands, and thanks to it, hiking is a great way to get around Perhentians and see as much as you can.
Hikes between beaches are usually 20-30 minutes long, and although you can do most of them in flip flops or sandals, you will have a much better time when wearing proper shoes.
The best hike in the Perhentian Islands, according to our opinion, starts on Long Beach and is called the Windmill Hike. The path will take you to the viewpoint with rewarding views of rolling hills, rugged coastline, and crystal blue sea.
Mind you, the walkway is not maintained, and it's falling apart, so wear proper footwear at least when you put this trail on your itinerary.
BEST HOTELS IN PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
Surprisingly, you still won't find many above-average hotels on Perhentians online, so you might want to have a look for accommodation on the spot, especially if you are traveling on a budget, and need to secure a room in cheap backpacking hostels.
Finding a room is very straightforward, and there are plenty of choices to choose from, you might even haggle the price down a little bit.
Chalets and hotels are abundant, though they fill up quickly, especially during high season, and if you don't book your hotel in advance, you might have a hard time to find something for a reasonable price with at least a reasonable standard.
More and more people are coming to Perhentians for leisure and holidays, which means demand is high for accommodation. In other words, you pay more, but unfortunately, the quality often does not reflect the price.
Don't expect to get the room in Perhentians for the same price as you would on the mainland.
We've handpicked the best hotels you can book in Perhentians online, though if you are looking for budget rooms with good reviews, your choice is quite limited.
Kecil Island | Alunan Resort | A very quiet eco-friendly private resort on Kecil Island is perfect for all travelers who want to escape busier beaches on the island. The rooms are nice and clean with fantastic sea views, and the staff is welcoming and helpful. The advantage is that you can snorkel directly from the beach and in general, this is one of the best places to relax and enjoy your vacation away from the crowds, though the rooms are a little bit more expensive. On the other hand, that's only a small price for the secluded location.
Long Beach | Mimpi Perhentian | Do you want to stay at the famous Long Beach? For a budget hostel, look on the spot. But for more luxury accommodation, look no further. Mimpi Perhentian is perfect for all visitors who want to enjoy their stay on Long Beach in style. Excellent location on the beach is perfect for everyone, who enjoys amazing sea views, the property has a swimming pool and clean air-conditioned rooms with comfy beds.
Besar Island | Samudra Beach Chalet | Budget chalets offer a quiet relaxing location only seconds walk from the beach in the south part of Besar Island. Basic clean rooms with aircon are standard. Arguably one of the best values for money in Perhentians.
WHAT TO PACK FOR VISITING PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
Perhentian Islands are all about swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing.
You are going to need a strong water-resistant sunscreen with at least 50+ SPF. Keep in mind that Malaysia is closer to the Equator than you would think, and the sun is unforgiving there.
Apply the sunscreen 30 minutes before being on the sun, also don't forget to reapply it after swimming.
When going for a snorkeling boat tour, pack a worn-out t-shirt with you, so you can put it on to prevent sunburnt. This is one of our best island-hopping tricks we know, and it will help you to enjoy your upcoming travels around Malaysia without suffering.
What else? A good swimsuit is another essential thing to pack. We prefer functionality over fashion, and the quick-drying swimsuits are game-changers.
A waterproof dry bag will keep your phone and camera dry and safe on your boat tour, and speaking of which, an action camera is great for capturing all the underwater marine wildlife, and it's also a great gadget to have in your backpack for fun in general.
Even seemingly sandy bottom of Perhentian beaches can have sharp dead corals, and water shoes are must-have. You can use them for kayaking, hiking around the island, or snorkeling, so water shoes should be rocking in your bag no matter what.
Sun, beaches, a lot of free time, yeah, you need to pack a book to keep yourself entertained. However, sand, saltwater, and paper usually don't get along very well, so we switched to Kindle, which has turned out to be more travel resistant.
Do you hate it too when you get a worn out or damaged gear on your tour that can potentially ruin the whole experience?
Snorkeling gear is something you can rent on the spot, but we always prefer our own mask and snorkel, as they're tested and not faulty. That way, we don't have to worry about it, and can focus solely on the fun part of the snorkeling adventures.
WHEN TO VISIT PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
Unlike Tioman, Perhentians are not an all-year-round destination, and the place is shut down for the monsoon season.
We visited the Perhentian Islands at the turn of low and shoulder season, and we must admit that the islands felt quiet. Probably more quiet than what we thought they would be.
Being said that, the season usually fully starts in March, when all hotels and restaurants open their business for the new season, but this can be weather dependent.
The monsoon season is every year different, and there is no way to predict the unpredictable. If you push your trip to a further date, you'll have a higher chance to get to Perhentians.
Yes, boats don't run in severe weather, or when the sea is too choppy, so you can get stuck in Kuala Besut or Perhentians for a couple of hours or in the worst-case scenario, a few days.
The beginning of March and the end of October are shoulder season, and the high season lasts from April to September. It's also the best time to visit the Perhentians, as days are sunny and the sea is calm. Visibility in the water is also better, which is perfect for snorkeling and scuba diving.
June and July is the peak season, the islands get crowded, and if we would be planning our visit of the islands again, we would probably try to avoid those two months.
On the other hand, if you like socializing, this is the best time to come to Perhentians, as the islands are packed with both locals and foreigners.
HOW MANY DAYS YOU NEED FOR PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
If you asked us how many days you should spare for visiting this destination, two or three nights in Perhentians would be probably our definitive answer, though this is highly individual, and it mostly depends on how much time you have for your entire trip.
As this archipelago is significantly smaller than Tioman, we feel that there are actually not many activities to do in the Perhentian Islands.
If you are really into lazing on the beach and drinking at night, you can probably stay longer, though, for our wandering souls, it would be too long.
If you are planning your Malaysia itinerary and want to visit both places, something like two nights at Perhentians and three nights at Tioman Island might be a reasonable suggestion.
PERHENTIANS OR TIOMAN
By now, we hope that you have a better understanding of the Perhentian Islands, but we know travelers often decide between Perhentians and another beautiful Malaysian destination, Tioman.
They both share a similar origin, and kind of look the same. They both have beautiful beaches, lush forests, those remarkable giant boulders, and unbelievingly clear green-blue water.
If you want to know more about the other island, read our Pulau Tioman guide, so you can compare both, and decide by yourself which island is a better fit for you.
We liked them both. Each of the islands has its pros and cons, and it's totally up to you, what you will choose depending on your preferences.
HOW TO GET TO PERHENTIAN ISLANDS
To get to the archipelago, you need to get to Kuala Besut first. Kuala Besut is a small port town in the northeast corner of Malaysia.
Kuala Besut is famous for one thing only, it's a departure point for ferries to Perhentian Islands, so there is no need to stay here longer than necessary.
You will also find hotels in Kuala Besut, which might serve you well, if you arrive late at night, so you can stay there overnight, and catch the morning ferry to Perhentians.
Staying at Kuala Besut overnight is also a smart plan if you haven't booked your hotel in Perhentians in advance, so you can arrive on the islands early in the morning and look for the accommodation as more rooms will be available.
Getting to Kuala Besut by bus from Kuala Lumpur is cheap, easy, and it takes about 8 hours to get there.
Check out dates and prices on 12.go.asia. Make sure to book the bus to Kuala Besut, as some of them terminate at Jerteh, a town 15 kilometers away from Besut (of course, there is another bus going from Jerteh to Besut, but it will add additional time to your journey).
If you prefer flying, you will find the nearest airports in Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu. From there, take a bus or arrange a taxi, though it's going to be more expensive.
For those who are traveling from Taman Negara National Park, you can take a Jungle Train with KTMB from Jerantut and get off at Wakaf Bharu. It's also a route which we took.
Wakaf Bharu is 65 kilometers away from Kuala Besut, so you need to take a bus or taxi to get there.
Ferry to Perhentian Islands is, in reality, a small speed boat that usually can fit up to 16 passengers. The service starts at 8 AM, and the last boat leaves the jetty at 4 or 5 PM, though the times can change depending on the season and current tides. The journey is about 45 minutes long.
Here is a not very surprising fact. Speed boats are fast. Combine the speed with the choppy sea, and you are going to get one bumpy ride.
First, the ride itself is not very comfortable, and you can get wet (store your camera, phone, and wallet safely in the dry sack), and second, we met a girl later on, who broke her arm on the boat, when she kind of fell off the seat. Hold tight.
The ferry leaves from Kuala Besut jetty, and the usual price is 35 RM for one way or 70 RM for a return ticket. You can buy the ticket on the spot at Kuala Besut or book it online.
Don't forget to inform your tour operator which beach you are heading to, so they know, where to drop you off.
The environmental fee is 30 RM for foreigners, and you need to pay it on the spot too.
ARE PERHENTIAN ISLANDS SAFE?
Perhentian Islands are vacation retreats, so they're very safe for tourists, as the locals are depending on the money coming from tourism.
Said that commercialization of the islands brought some issues like petty theft or harassing. It's still best for you to use common sense. Keep your valuables safe in your hotel room.
Female solo travelers should get around the island with a friend rather than walking alone, especially after dark.
The biggest danger lies in unpredictable weather and the rough sea. Though the reef sharks you might spot in the sea are harmless, the strong currents could be potentially very dangerous.
Always ask locals, hotel manager or your tour guide, where it's safe to swim and snorkel.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
ARE PERHENTIAN ISLANDS STILL WORTH VISITING?
It's true, the islands have changed a lot, mainly because of the enormous popularity they gained throughout the years.
But after many years of traveling, we've learned one simple trick. Every time we travel to a new destination, we set our expectations low.
Nowadays, all of us are influenced by travel blogs, Instagram, guidebooks, tv shows, YouTubers, more than ever, and words like paradise tend to be overused.
And we think that this might be a part of the problem.
We believe that the reason why some travelers end up disappointed when they visit the Perhentian Islands is, at least in our opinion, because they set their expectations too high, or they had read very old travel blogs or guide books.
If you read about something to be unbelievingly good, then you are more likely to feel disillusionment.
Would we still recommend you visit Perhentian Islands? Sure, why not?
The water is still clear, the beach still has fine sand, marine life is great, you can learn scuba diving for a few bucks. Just don't expect an unspoiled paradise, rather a civilized holiday destination.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
