Hiking Guide to Queen Charlotte Track
Multi-day hike Queen Charlotte Track offers spectacular views of Marlborough Sounds therefore, it is one of the most popular treks on New Zealand's South Island. Read our hiking guide on how to arrange boat transport to the trek, where to stay, what to pack with information on how difficult is the hike. Everything you need to know about Queen Charlotte Track is in this post.
After three months of hard work on vineyards in Martinborough, we finally made enough money for at least three months of traveling, and our quest to exploring New Zealand's South Island could start.
As we were working on the south of North Island, we decided to take a ferry directly from Wellington to Picton and travel around North Island later.
We know that many travelers on limited schedule often arrive in Picton and continue straightaway to renowned destinations such as Abel Tasman National Park or Kaikoura.
But in case you were amazed by the utterly unique views of Marlborough Sounds on your way to Picton or if you've just discovered the area on your computer when planning your New Zealand itinerary, you should definitely read on.
As Queen Charlotte Track might be the ultimate adventure for you.
The great thing about Queen Charlotte Track, apart from the views, native bush and well-maintained trails is, that the hike is literally for everyone.
As the only way how to get to the path is by boat, you can choose whether you want to hike the whole length or only the part, whether you want to sleep in huts or a tent, whether you want to carry all your stuff on your back or you will pay for the service.
Or there is even an option to cycle Queen Charlotte Track, in case you are an avid cyclist (there are not that many biking trails in New Zealand in comparison with hiking trails).
In this hiking guide, we've put together all the information you need to know before hiking the Queen Charlotte Track. As the hike passes through private properties, the rules are a bit different than on other New Zealand's trails we've done.
We will also cover where and how to buy hike permits, where to sleep, what to pack, what direction to walk, and how to get to the trek's trailhead.
QCTLC PASS - QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK PERMIT
Before you start hiking, it is necessary to know that the hike goes across private lands, and it is compulsory to buy a permit which compensates the owners of the land, and you will contribute for maintaining the trail as well.
As it is possible to walk only parts of Queen Charlotte Track, you can buy a one-day pass for NZD 12, or a multi-day pass for NZD 25 which will allow you to spend on the trail up to 5 consecutive days.
There is also a yearly pass, but we believe only residents would want to use it.
You can buy the QCTLC pass either online or in Visitor Center in Picton, at some points on the trail and in nearby towns as well (the full list is in the link above).
Some sections are not privately owned, and in case you want to spend only one day in the area, check if the section you want to hike requires the pass or not.
When doing the multi-day hike, you will not avoid the paid sections.
A SHORT HISTORY OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
The native inhabitants of New Zealand, Maori people, has been present in the area of Marlborough Sounds for more than 1000 years.
They built many small settlements around the sounds as the place was suitable for fishing.
As you can see, the trail is used for centuries, and it is a real privilege we can walk it until these days.
The first European explorer who set foot in the sounds in the north part of South Island was famous James Cook who sailed into Ship Cove (today's beginning of Queen Charlotte Track) and made from it a base for his exploration journeys.
Thanks to both, Maoris and Europeans the trail was well-trodden until the 20th century when it became an official hiking trail for both local and foreign tourists.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK LENGTH AND DIFFICULTY
Queen Charlotte Track was one of the longest hikes we've done in New Zealand, 71 kilometers, but because it led along the coast and not in the mountains, we did not find it that difficult like for example Travers-Sabine Track.
Yes, there are some uphill climbs, usually at the beginning of the day as we were sleeping in the camps near the shore.
But only this way we were able to get the best views overlooking the Sounds, but overall we would rate Queen Charlotte Track as easy to intermediate.
To finish the hike, it can take you anything between three to five days, and thanks to the fact there are quite many accommodation options, you can really follow your own pace and not to rush.
WEATHER ON QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
As in anywhere else in New Zealand, the weather around Marlborough Sounds is pretty changeable, and you can easily experience here four seasons in only one day.
Generally, the best time to do the hike is between November and March, when you have the best chance to enjoy sunny, warm weather (nights are still pretty cold though).
But it still does not mean you cannot experience four or more days of non-stop rain.
This is simply New Zealand.
It gets chilly in winter, between June and August, but Queen Charlotte Track is all year round hike, so only when you plan on hiking off-season, do not forget to pack warm layers and extra dry clothes.
For sure, Queen Charlotte Track is at its busiest during December and February (the hottest month), but we were doing the hike in January and did not have a feeling it was somehow crowded.
We slept in DOC campgrounds, started early in the morning, and never met many people.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK TRAILHEAD AND DIRECTIONS
Although it is possible to walk Queen Charlotte Track both ways, most of the hikers start at Ship Cove, and from here walk to Anakiwa, from where they have arranged water taxi back to Picton.
We did the hike the same way.
Not only it is much easier to arrange transport in this direction (as the demand is much higher), but Queen Charlotte Track is one of those hikes which is much more enjoyable when you walk it the same direction as others rather than against crowds.
If there is one thing which favors Anakiwa as a starting point, it would be that it is possible to get there by car, which is less expensive than traveling to the trailhead by boat.
As we started the hike at Ship Cove and got there by boat, we will tell you more about the transport in this direction.
HOW TO GET TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK TRAILHEAD
We wanted to hike Queen Charlotte Track from Ship Cove to Anakiwa, and as there is no road access, it was clear we need to arrange a boat transfer.
There are several travel agencies in Picton you can choose from it is usually enough to reserve the transport one day in advance (in the season, when operators have daily services), or you can reserve the transfer online before your arrival.
Most of the agencies offer similar services, and it is only up to you what option seems the best for you.
You can either arrange solely transport from Picton to Ship Cove and then get from Anakiwa to Picton by car (hitchhiking or it is possible to arrange shuttle), arrange boat transport from Picton to Ship Cove and then from Anakiwa to Picton.
Or there are also several other options which include luggage service, and this is what we chose.
We are usually used to carry our stuff on back, same as we did on all New Zealand's hikes later, or for example when we hiked Annapurna Circuit in Nepal.
But as Queen Charlotte was the first multi-day trek we did in New Zealand, we did not have proper, light equipment yet, our tent was the cheapest one we found online and our gas cooker weighted at least two kilograms.
That's why we opted for this possibility, and it was a great decision.
How does it work?
The first day we were dropped off at Ship Cove, left our bags on the boat (took only our day packs), and in the evening the backpacks were waiting for us on the jetties near our campground.
The next day we left the backpack on the jetty and found it again in the evening in the next campground.
We never left anything valuable in the backpack, but we strongly believe this part of New Zealand is one of the safest.
Of course, you can carry all your stuff with you, especially when you decide on sleeping in lodges rather than in campgrounds.
In this case, you will only ask for the boat transfer to Ship Cove, and later from Anakiwa to Picton, depending on your itinerary.
WHERE TO STAY ON QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
As the transport was already quite expensive for us, we decided to sleep along the trail as cheaply as possible, so the only option was to camp.
There are six DOC campsites along Queen Charlotte Track which do not have to be booked in advance.
The only thing you must do is to go to an information center in Picton and buy camping tickets (NZD 6 - 13 per person), but you can also pay on spot in the campgrounds in case you do not have a strict plan, and do not know where exactly you will spend a night.
In that case, there are self-registration boxes, where you fill in your name and put money in the envelope.
In case camping is not your thing, or you simply have a higher budget, when doing multi-day Queen Charlotte Track, you can sleep in one of many privately owned huts along the path.
Some of the huts are quite luxurious and provide you with amazing service after all day walking.
The most popular huts along Queen Charlotte Track are:
Endeavour Inlet: Furneaux Lodge | Mahana Lodge | Punga Cove Resort | The Bluewater Lodge
Te Mahia Bay: Te Mahia Bay Resort
Lochmara Bay: Lochmara Lodge
Anakiwa: Anakiwa Lodge | Okiwa Bay Lodge | Tanglewood
Huts or lodges if you like are better to be booked in advance, especially during the main hiking season between December and February.
VISITING QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK IN ONE-DAY & TOURS
In case your New Zealand itinerary is packed to the brim, it does not mean you cannot soak up the amazing views of Queen Charlotte Sound.
The only thing you must do is to choose which part of the multi-day hike you want to see and arrange transport from and to Picton.
One of the most popular options is Cruise & Self-Guided Hike when a boat take you to Ship Cove, and you can walk 12-15 kilometers before the boat will take you back to Picton.
In case you do not want to walk at all, there is also an option of only a boat tour.
As hiking and cycling is not the only activity possible doing in Marlborough Sounds, you can also opt for a popular tour which combines hiking and kayaking.
CYCLING QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
Queen Charlotte Track is one of the few New Zealand's trails which can be used by both, hikers and cyclists.
The trail is almost similar to the walking trail with some steep, rocky, or muddy challenging sections, and that's why cycling is usually recommended to experienced bikers.
On the other hand, if you want to enjoy Queen Charlotte Track this way, and do not have required experience, it is always possible to dismount the bike.
Biking is allowed all year round except for December 1 and February 28 when the most heavily trafficked part between Ship Cove and Kenepuru Saddle is closed.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK BUDGET
Queen Charlotte Track is not the cheapest hike in New Zealand.
Because you need to arrange your transport from Picton to Ship Cove and then from Anakiwa to Picton by boat (although it is possible to reach some points of the hike including Anakiwa by car), but even us, budget travelers were able to save money for it.
We booked the boat with luggage transport, but then we slept in the campsites for a small amount of money and ate our food.
Depending on how long you want to hike the track, budget approximately NZD 25 per night including food when sleeping in the tent, plus around NZD 90 - 110 for roundtrip boat trip per person.
Lodges are more comfortable, but also more expensive.
You will pay approximately NZD 70 to 500 per night (depending on the season), and the rest depends on if you'll decide to cook in the kitchenette or eat in the on-site restaurant.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK ITINERARY
Before starting Queen Charlotte Track and booking your accommodation, consider carefully your New Zealand itinerary, weather forecast and level of fitness.
For us, it was enough to stay on the track three days and two nights, but it is for sure possible to enjoy the hike even longer, as the network of accommodation options is pretty dense.
In case you are averagely fit, do not hesitate to get inspired by our Queen Charlotte Track itinerary - it shows exactly how we went.
Day 1: Picton - Ship Cove - Camp Bay Campsite
On the first day, we parked our car in Picton and waited for a water taxi at 9 AM we booked the day before.
The boat took us to Ship Cove, where we started the 71 kilometers long journey.
The beginning of the trail led uphill via beech forest, but in less than one hour we reached the first rewarding viewpoint overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound.
After we crossed the saddle the path led again downhill to the shore of Resolution Bay to the first camp on the track, Schoolhouse Bay. We did not plan to spend a night here, so we continued.
From Resolution Bay the path led us over the ridge to Endeavour Inlet.
From this point the trek kept for a while along the shoreline, we walked in the forest, and for the first time saw a common bird for the area, weka.
As we were inexperienced at that time, we were at first wondering if it is a kiwi bird, but soon found out it is not, and we had to wait for spotting kiwi bird to Stewart Island several months later.
We rounded Big Bay to Camp Bay, the destination for today.
Our Tip: Keep all your food, even trash in your tent.
Although it does not sound appealing, when you leave it outside, or even under the tent's tarp, it will be stolen by birds or other animals, and believe us, they make terribly scary noises when fighting against each other.
Day 2: Camp Bay Campsite - Cowshed Bay
The second day was all about views, and it was our favorite day on Queen Charlotte Track.
Although the day started with a grueling climb, all the effort was well worth it once we reached the ridge.
Once we got to the top, the path was almost flat with some ups and downs, and we were rewarded by many out of this world vistas. But first, we walked through the forest.
This area is notorious for wasps, so be careful in case you are allergic, Martin was stung by one on the top of his head, luckily he felt alright.
We walked along Kenepuru Saddle, from where we had perfect views of the Sounds - Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sound.
For a while, we could not believe that two sounds so close to each other can have such a different color.
One was dark blue, while the other turquoise.
Then we walked above Bay of Many Coves until we descended to Torea Saddle and soon we arrived at Cowshed Bay where was our campsite.
Day 3: Cowshed Bay - Anakiwa - Picton
We started the last day early in the morning because we had to catch a pre-ordered water taxi.
The morning was cloudy, but once we climbed from the campground to the first hill, we were absolutely stunned by the view of the sound and the first rays of sunlight touching the water surface (you must make a short sidewalk to the lookout).
Then we descended via Mahia Saddle to Mistletoe Bay.
The last section of Queen Charlotte Track led us around Davies Bay and Umungata Bay, and the last hour of the hike was quite an uneventful walk on a flat path which led us to Anakiwa.
There we waited on the shore of the bay for an hour for our water taxi, which took us to Picton.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
FOOD & DRINKS ALONG QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
It is not possible to do grocery shopping along Queen Charlotte Track, although we were once passing a private property where was a small shack with refreshment (apples, chocolate, drinks), no one was inside and it was possible to pay cash to the small wooden box. Sometimes we really liked the openness and credulity of Kiwis. Anyway.
You need to either buy all the food in Picton and prepare it by yourself on the trek (campsites usually have a cooking shelter) or you can eat in the lodges (always make sure in advance they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner).
As Queen Charlotte Track was our first multi-day hike in New Zealand, we quite underestimated the food, and the last day were really hungry.
We packed muesli, cheese, fruits, toast bread (not a good idea), vegetables and couscous.
In case you do not have experience with tramping, later, when caping in the Canadian Rockies, we found useful dried meals - they are a bit more expensive, but it is light, and the food is ready quickly.
We never treated water in New Zealand, and it was the same on Queen Charlotte Track.
Tap water is available in the lodges or the campsites as well. In case you do not feel comfortable, it is possible to but filtered water bottle which clean water instantly.
WHERE TO STAY BEFORE AND AFTER QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
The closest town to Queen Charlotte Track trailhead is Picton, where it is also possible to buy trek permits, arrange boat transfers and do last-minute shopping.
Picton is also a place where most of the travelers arrive when taking the ferry from North Island to South Island.
There are several options on where to stay overnight.
Below you can find three accommodation options we've handpicked for every type of traveler.
When traveling on a low budget and have a campervan or convertible car, you can sleep on Collins Memorial Parking Lot for free (it is approximately 6 kilometers from Picton, and it is also an official campground for non-self-contained vehicles).
Budget | Fat Cod Backpackers - Convenient location close to the port, self-serve breakfast, both dormitories, and private rooms make from this hotel one of the best budget options in Picton.
Mid-range: Admirals Lodge B&B - This hotel offers great value for money. Excellent breakfast, friendly staff, and comfortable rooms are the main features here.
Luxury: Escape To Picton Boutique Hotel - Boutique hotel right in the heart of Picton offers luxury accommodation, beautifully-appointed rooms, and delicious cuisine.
Alternatively, search for your accommodation via Hostelworld.
WHAT TO PACK FOR HIKING QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
When it comes to packing clothes, we do not think it makes much difference whether you want to hike only a short section of Queen Charlotte Track in one day, or if you plan on hiking the whole three to five days multi-day hike.
Only when hiking in winter, pack more layers and extra clothes in case you get wet.
Here are several essentials you should pack with you for hiking Queen Charlotte Track:
Trail Walking Shoes for Him & for Her | Trekking Poles | Waterproof Jacket for Him & for Her | Sunscreen | Bug Repellent | Rucksack 30-40L for Him & for Her
For camping along Queen Charlotte Track, remember to pack the following essentials:
We've also created an in-depth Ultimate New Zealand Packing List where you can find more information and useful tips.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
