Derry - Londonderry: Travel Guide
Read our guide on Derry - Londonderry, Northern Ireland. Includes best things to do and see, tips on how to get, where to stay, or when to go.
Derry, also known as Londonderry, is one of the best cities to visit in Ireland.
The city is located in County Derry - Londonderry in the northwest of Northern Ireland, only a short drive from the borders of the Republic of Ireland.
There are several reasons to visit Derry, and include the city in your Ireland itinerary.
Derry is a great place to explore with its turbulent history, intact medieval walls, stunning architecture, vibrant murals, lively pubs, and easy access.
As a matter of fact, the City of Derry is easily one of the best things to do in Northern Ireland.
You can argue that there are way more popular cities you can visit on Emerald Isle.
And you're right. But that's precisely why Derry is so fun to explore.
Read on what to see and do in Derry on your first visit.
Things to Know Before You Go
Even though this is a tourist-friendly city, there are a few essential things to know about Derry before you go.
Location
Derry is located in Northern Ireland, so it's part of the UK. The city sits on River Foyle, only a stone's throw away from the borders with the Republic of Ireland.
This puts Derry in a unique position, as the city has an ideal location for exploring Donegal's Inishowen Peninsula and County Derry.
On top of that, the town basically sits between Wild Atlantic Way and Causeway Coastal Route.
Both are the best scenic drives each country has to offer.
If you're driving around the whole island, this is a great place to take a break and take advantage of 'large city' perks.
If you arrived from the Republic of Ireland, note that the local currency is £1 (Pound), not 1€ (Euro).
History
The first historical records of Derry date back to the 6th century when St Columba or Colmcille founded a monastery on this very spot.
The city then became one of many of Ireland's monastic settlements in the following centuries.
That said, people have been living in the area for much longer, making Derry one of the oldest inhabited places in Ireland.
The city then saw the events of the Tudor conquest of Ireland and the O'Doherty Rebellion during the 16th-17th century.
During the plantation of Ulsters, the city and its walls were rebuilt and renamed Londonderry.
The old town got its unique diamond shape with four streets leading to four entrance gates during this period, making it the first planned city in Ireland.
The events of the 17th century were quite turbulent.
Derry was attacked during the Irish Rebellion of 1641 and witnessed the Glorious Revolution and Siege of Derry ( 1688-1689).
The city was once again rebuilt in the 18th century (you can still see some Georgian-style houses) and became an important port for migrants fleeing the country around the time of the Great Famine.
The guerrilla war between British forces and the Irish Republican Army, known as the Irish War of Independence from the early 20th century, brought violence into Derry once again.
Derry is also home to Bogside, one of the epicenters of the Troubles.
The Troubles were a conflict in Northern Ireland between Protestants and Catholics fighting for Ireland's status that lasted for 30 years.
Irish nationalists and republicans (mostly Catholics) wanted to join a united Ireland, while unionists and loyalists (mostly protestants) wished to remain part of the United Kingdom.
The tragic events that occurred in the Bogside during which British forces shot 13 civilians are known as Bloody Sunday.
The conflict ended with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998.
Today, Derry is the second largest city in Northern Ireland and a popular tourist spot in the country's northwestern part.
The Bogside became a fairly safe area for tourists to visit, making it one of Derry's most popular places to explore.
As the history of Derry is so rich and complicated, consider taking one of the many guided tours.
These tours serve as a fantastic introduction to Derry's fascinating history.
Derry - Londonderry
One of the most confusing questions you can have about Derry - Londonderry is its name.
The most important thing you need to know is that Derry and Londonderry are the same place. The city is officially named Londonderry.
That said, you will hear or see all possible versions, such as Derry, Londonderry, City of Derry, Derry/Londonderry, Derry~Londonderry, etc. No matter whether it's Ryanair, NI Railways, or the locals, these names are used interchangeably.
As this is a sensitive topic, some companies and businesses avoid using any of these variations and use different names, such as BBC's Radio Foyle.
Generally, you can call the city Derry or Londonderry, depending on your personal preferences.
If you want to be politically correct, you can use Londonderry in Protestant communities and Derry in Catholic ones.
By the way, the official name of the local government is Derry City and Strabane, if things were not confusing already enough.
If you are still unsure, you can use one of Derry's nicknames, such as the Maiden City, the Walled City, or the Stroke City (referring to the political correctness of the Derry/Londonderry name).
So why is Derry called Londonderry, or why is Londonderry called Derry?
This is one of the old disputes showing how complicated the past, present, and future can be.
The name 'Derry' originates in the Irish word 'doire', which means oak wood of Calgach.
The name was changed to Londonderry in 1613 by King James I of England (known as King James VI of Scotland).
It was a time when many settlers from England and Scotland arrived in Northern Ireland and started using Londonderry instead of Derry (as a reference to London).
Another level of this complicated topic is the cultural (colonialism vs British heritage) and religious significance (Catholic vs Protestant community).
This is a long and complex topic, and this section is already longer than initially intended.
As we are no experts on this topic, we leave it to someone else.
So make sure to take a guided tour to learn about the history of a local who lived their whole lives in this fascinating city.
As the name Londonderry is a bit complicated and confusing to us, we usually refer to this city as Derry to make our lives easier.
Best Things to Do
The City of Derry is not just history and politics that often overshadow its beauty.
Still, we strongly recommend starting your day with a brief 'history lesson' from one of the local guides.
The newly acquired knowledge will show you how complicated the history and modern-day world can be.
Once you're done with the basic introduction, you can either delve deeper into the history or start exploring the city's cultural and food side.
There are some really nice restaurants in Derry, so make sure to check them out while you're there.
Plus, Derry has a good nightlife, and you will find lively pubs and bars within the central area.
Check out some of the best things to do in Derry - Londonderry.
Learn About Derry's History
The City of Derry has one of the most complicated and intriguing histories of all cities in Ireland.
We have already briefly touched on most of the major events that the city witnessed during the last 1500 years.
As this topic is so robust and complex, we believe it deserves a story from a knowledgeable guide. You can book several tours delving into Derry's history.
The most popular ones focus on the story of the modern Irish conflict and the peace process.
Here you can book a well-rated Bogside Murals Walking Tour.
Or you can leave the recent history behind and learn more about early/medieval times, how the walls were built, or what happened during the Siege of Derry.
Visit the Free Derry Corner
Derry's complicated history is best experienced in the predominantly Catholic Bogside neighborhood.
Bogside is located west of the city walls, right next to the Loyalist's Fountain, less than a 10-minute walk from the Guildhall.
The neighborhood is known for its turbulent history, which is represented by the giant murals of the Troubles.
The most famous historical landmark in the Bogdise is the Free Derry Corner.
It's located at the junction of Lecky and Fahan Street and is known for its gable wall and iconic slogan.
The 'You Are Now Entering Free Derry' slogan painted by a local activist that appeared on one of the walls can still be seen there.
This slogan is often extended with a new one reflecting the current events in the world.
If you're still craving more history, visit the Museum of Free Derry to learn even more about this area and its people.
This is the neighborhood where the Battle of the Bogside took place, among other important events.
You should also explore all the murals that will walk you through some of the most important events of the Troubles.
While we suggest you join a guided tour to understand better the events that shaped this neighborhood, you can explore this area on your own.
Walk Across the Peace Bridge
The asymmetrical Peace Bridge is one of the top attractions in Derry that no traveler should miss on their first trip to the Walled City.
The bridge spans 235 meters over River Foyle, connecting Derry's western and eastern sides.
As the name indicates, the most famous bridge in Derry is not just a bridge.
Peace Bridge also connects local people.
This pedestrian bridge was opened in 2011 to bring closer the mainly nationalist Cityside on the west bank with unionist Waterside on the east bank.
The sloping pillars symbolize the process of the two communities getting closer.
From the tourist standpoint, the bridge offers a convenient way to cross the river and makes for a great photo opportunity.
Peace Bridge is located less than a 1-minute walk from the Guildhall.
A short walk across the River Foyle takes you to Ebrington Square.
Here, you will find former Army Barracks that were transformed into a public area with art exhibitions, music, and cultural events.
Walk the City Walls
There is no doubt that Derry has a beautiful city center. This was our first time in Northern Ireland, so we didn't know what to expect from Derry.
The city surprised us in so many ways. Probably the most unexpected thing we found about Derry is that it's very scenic, especially the walled western side.
As we soon found out, Derry has one of the best-preserved city walls in Europe.
Arguably, the best way to enjoy all the beauty and history is by walking the City Walls, as you will get a chance to see Derry in its full glory (and its original Renaissance street plan layout).
Approximately 1.5 kilometers in circumference, the walls were built between 1613 and 1619 during the Plantation of Ulster.
The main purpose of Derry Walls was to protect the settlers from England and Scotland.
The walls are lined with more than 20 cannons that were restored in 2005.
The powerful cannon known as 'Roaring Meg' can be found near Bishop's Gate.
Speaking of which, the four original gates are Bishop's Gate, Butcher Gate, Shipquay Gate, and Ferryquay Gate, though three more were added later.
The best part is that you can walk the City Walls without a guide.
The City Walls are easy to navigate, and there are several information boards with plenty of details about Derry's history.
Derry Walls Tour
That said, taking a guided tour is one of the best ways to learn about Derry's history, particularly the Nine Years War, the Siege of Derry, and the Great Hunger.
This 90-minute private Derry Walls Tour can be booked in advance here.
The best time to explore the City Walls on your own is early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Guildhall
Derry's Guildhall is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city.
The previous building, Market House that stood on this spot was destroyed during the Siege of Derry.
The building you can see today was completed in 1890, though it was rebuilt after the 1912 fire. Guildhall was once again severely damaged by attacks during the Troubles and restored later.
As the building has beautiful architecture, it's worth seeing even if you don't want to take a guided tour.
The building also houses a collection of peace awards won by John Hume.
He was born in Derry and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1998, the Martin Luther King Jr. Non-Violent Prize in 1999, and the Mahatma Gandhi Peace Prize in 2001.
The building has a strategic location near the Peace Bridge and parking garages, so it's straightforward to incorporate into your Derry itinerary.
Discover the Derry Murals
Another thing that caught our eye was the impressive murals scattered throughout the city.
The street art in Derry is worth seeing, even if this is not usually your cup of tea.
Trouble Murals
The most interesting murals in Derry are arguably the Trouble Murals in Bogside Neighborhood.
Each mural reflects one of the events or social issues that are part of Derry's complicated history.
Murals in the Bogside are not just street art but political protest, commentary, or statement.
They provide a great way for tourists to understand the complex history better, especially when visiting Northern Ireland for the first time.
Here you can book a popular Bogside Murals Walking Tour.
The Bogside murals are pretty impressive, but street art can also be found in other neighborhoods.
Derry Girls
Today, one of the famous murals you can see in the city is the Derry Girls mural.
The mural depicts some of the most popular cast members of the Netflix TV show Derry Girls.
This TV series follows the story of a 16-year-old teenager, her family, and her friends during the political conflict in Northern Ireland in the 1990s.
This mural is located in the city center and can be easily seen from the City Walls.
This popular Derry Girls Tour is a great alternative to traditional tours for those who want to see the filming locations and learn about the show while seeing some of the most interesting parts of the city.
St. Columb's Cathedral
The Walled City is home to St. Columb's Cathedral, one of Derry's most famous historic landmarks.
St. Columb's Cathedral was built between 1628 and 1633, but the cathedral's original location was Templemore.
The cathedral is dedicated to St. Columb (Columba), who founded an Early Christian settlement nearby during the 6th century CE.
Day Trips
If you want to base yourself in Derry, consider exploring some of the most beautiful places County Derry has to offer.
Those who like beaches should head to Benone Strand, home to a 10-kilometer golden sand beach.
Another popular beach destination in County Derry is Portsteward Strand.
Among the best things to do in County Derry is Downhill Demesne, with its stunning Mussenden Temple and majestic cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
Ness Country Park and Roe Valley Country Park are great places for those who want to leave the city behind and enjoy quiet moments in nature.
Another great day trip from Derry is Ishihowen in County Donegal (Republic of Ireland).
This rugged peninsula is home to several beautiful sites. Our favorite place was Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point.
How Much Time Do I Need
In our opinion, one day in Derry is more than enough to see this city's best highlights. The city is compact and easily explored on foot.
Most of the tourist attractions are centrally located.
One of the best ways to see Derry is to arrive in the afternoon so you can still visit some of the most famous attractions and landmarks.
You should stay in one of the centrally located hotels as everything is only a short walk from this area.
The following morning, you can explore the remaining places on your list before you leave the town and head out for the coast or the Republic of Ireland.
If you're pressed for time, a half-day in Derry is enough to get a general sense of what this city is about.
You will often hear that it's not enough, but if you plan your itinerary carefully, you should be able to explore many places in four to six hours.
Taking one of the popular guided tours in this scenario is a great idea to maximize your time there.
On the other hand, you can easily spend two or three days in Derry.
Derry truly has a fascinating history that is worth exploring.
That said, you will most likely need to include some day trips in your itinerary as the city is simply not that large, and you might get overwhelmed by the sheer amount of history after a certain time.
When to Go
As with pretty much any city in Ireland and Northern Ireland, Derry is a year-round destination.
That said, each season has pros and cons, and you should plan your trip carefully to avoid any disappointments. Check our guide on when to visit Ireland first.
The best time to visit Derry weatherwise is during the summer.
You can expect nice days, relatively stable weather, and longer opening hours.
Just be prepared that summer attracts crowds, and prices often skyrocket during this period, especially if you want to include Antrim's coast in your itinerary.
Our favorite time of the year to visit Derry is late spring or early fall.
We traveled to Derry in May, and the city was just gorgeous during this time of the year.
Still, the main reason is that you will most likely visit places outside the Derry.
Traveling in the shoulder season is a great way to avoid crowds at famous landmarks such as Dunluce Castle or Castle Ward.
You can easily visit Derry in winter, though you need to pack an extra layer or two.
Just be prepared that this period is not for everyone, especially if you want to explore Northern Ireland's countryside.
What to Pack
You should be well prepared if you plan to explore Derry's every nook and cranny.
Luckily, Derry is a compact city best enjoyed on foot, so you only need to bring essentials.
Whether you climb the city walls, walk along the river or the cobbled streets, you should wear comfortable runners.
Another essential item you should bring is a small, comfortable daypack to keep your essential gear close by.
Derry can experience multiple seasons in one day. As it can rain year-round, you will need to pack a good rain jacket.
In fact, this is probably the most essential item on every Ireland packing list.
Outside the summer, you should pack a fleece jacket to stay nice and warm during the day.
Wherever you travel, make sure to stay hydrated throughout the day. This reusable water bottle is one of those items we never leave our home without.
Don't forget that they have type G power sockets in the UK. This travel adapter is all you need.
How to Get There
There are several ways to get to Derry, including by car, train, bus, or plane.
As mentioned earlier, Derry is located in the northwest of the country, about 5 kilometers east of the Republic of Ireland borders.
Therefore, the city of Derry is often one of the first places you can visit after you cross the borders from County Donegal.
In our opinion, the easiest and quickest way to get to Derry is by car.
You can easily use public transport to get to Derry. That said, you should figure out how to get around Ireland first.
If you decide to drive around the island, then you will need to rent a car first. Check out this guide on renting a car in Ireland to learn more about this topic.
Car
Derry is connected with Belfast by A6/M2. The 110-kilometer drive takes less than 90 minutes.
However, most visitors take the scenic Causeway Coastal Route instead.
This scenic drive hugging the Antrim's coast requires an extra day or two, but it's well worth the time and effort. Don't skip it!
Driving around Derry was not as stressful as in Cork or Belfast, but maybe it was just a quiet day.
As driving in Ireland can be tricky at times for various reasons, read this guide.
Travel Resources
When renting a car, we use Rentalcars.com.
Parking
If you're arriving by car, consider leaving your vehicle at Foyleside Shopping Centre. This popular mall has a large multi-story garage with approximately 1500 parking spaces.
As there are two buildings, there are also two separate entrances. Therefore, you can leave your car at East Car Park (entrance from A2) or West Car Park (entrance from Foyle Street).
Another multi-story parking garage is Quayside Car Park, accessible from Great James Street.
Just across the street is Victoria Market, though this is a fairly small parking lot.
If you want to stay in the city overnight, try to reserve a hotel with private parking.
You can find other parking areas nearby, but these two have the most convenient locations for both day-trippers and overnight visitors.
Public Transport
You can get to Derry from Belfast's Europa Bus Centre by Translink 212 bus that usually departs every 30 minutes.
If you're coming from the Republic of Ireland, you need to check Bus Eireann's timetables.
The nearest town is Letterkenny in County Donegal.
Plane
The City of Derry Airport, locally known as Eglinton Airport, is somewhat popular among domestic flights to other parts of the UK (London, Manchester, Glasgow, etc.).
The airport is just off the A2, about 10 kilometers northeast of Derry.
Tours
Alternatively, you can take a guided tour if you don't want to worry about transport or itinerary.
You can book a private Derry Tour from Belfast here.
Where to Stay
Derry offers options to suit every budget and preference. Hotels in Derry range from large international chain hotels and boutique hotels to budget guesthouses and family-owned bed and breakfasts.
In our opinion, the best area to stay in Derry is the City Center and Walled City.
As the name suggests, both neighborhoods can be found in the heart of Derry.
If you're visiting Derry for the first time, we believe these are the best areas to stay as you will find everything you need there.
If you're tired of hectic cities, you can also stay in the countryside.
That's what we did the day before we visited the city. Obviously, you will need a car to get to the city center from there.
So here are tips on the best hotels in Derry - Londonderry.
Budget | Holiday Inn Express Derry - This is our favorite choice if you're looking for an affordable hotel in Derry. This property is located in the Derry city center, around a 3-minute walk from Guildhall. Expect modern, clean rooms, welcoming staff, and a hard-to-beat location.
Mid-range | Maldron Hotel Derry - With comfortable rooms, a great restaurant, and helpful staff, this is one of the most popular hotels within Derry's historic city walls. The hotel is conveniently located close to everything: restaurants, shops, attractions, etc. Great value for money.
Luxury | Bishop's Gate Hotel - Housed in a heritage building, this property is one of the best options when it comes to luxury hotels in Derry. Expect Edwardian architecture, elegant rooms, luxurious facilities, great food, and exceptional service. Valet parking is available at the hotel.
Airport | White Horse Hotel - If you need to stay close to Derry Airport, this hotel is conveniently located on A2, just a short drive from there. Expect modern rooms, an excellent location, a large pool, sauna, gym, and free parking. Derry's city center is less than 10 kilometers from here.
Staying Safe
Despite its turbulent and complicated history, Derry is generally a safe place to visit for tourists.
Honestly, we explored Derry fairly thoroughly and felt very safe while there.
That doesn't mean you should let your guard down, though. There will always be some corners and streets that look a bit shady or rundown, but that's the case in every large city, even in Europe.
The rule of thumb is to retrace your steps whenever you don't feel comfortable.
One of the most crucial advice regarding Derry - Londonderry is to avoid political and religious topics, especially when talking with strangers.
Even the name Derry - Londonderry suggests that not all problems are settled.
Despite the calm surface, there are still problems that are not up to you to resolve.
If you come to Derry by car, use one of the parking garages rather than leaving your car on the street.
And never leave your valuables in your vehicle, regardless of where you park.
Also, stay vigilant in crowded areas (public transport, museums, shopping malls, etc.) that pickpockets often target.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
Is Derry - Londonderry Worth Visiting?
Derry is one of the most exciting cities to visit in Northern Ireland.
Even though many international visitors just pass by on their way to the Causeway Coastal Route and Belfast, you should consider taking a short detour and spending at least a few hours there.
Derry has a fascinating history, a beautiful city center with impressive walls, and an excellent location for those driving around the island.
Furthermore, the city can be easily explored on foot.
In fact, we found Derry almost as beautiful and interesting as Galway or Cork (both located in the Republic of Ireland).
Therefore, we believe the city of Derry is definitely worth visiting.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
