Tongariro Northern Circuit: The Only Hiking Guide You Need
Hiking a multi-day Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of the best things a traveler can do on New Zealand's North Island. Plan your Tongariro Northern Circuit with our detailed hiking guide, including tips on where to stay, how to make a reservation, what to pack, or how to get to the trailhead.
We will never forget the day when we decided to hike Tongariro Northern Circuit.
We were traveling New Zealand's North Island, and as we were not limited by time, our only concern was to find a gap of two to three days with fine weather and two bunks in huts available, because accommodation on this popular Great Walk must be reserved in advance during the high season.
That very day we were exploring Waitomo Caves the whole morning.
When we finished the cave tour, we checked out the weather forecast, and even though we saw the afternoon would be rainy, the next two days predicted the sun.
We also checked the huts along the Tongariro Northern Circuit route, and to our surprise, we found two spots in the first and then the third hut available.
We did not wait a minute and made the reservation. Once we made the booking, in a few seconds we were on the road and drove to Tongariro National Park.
The drive took us two hours, and during that time it started to rain, it was foggy - so foggy that we even missed the parking lot as we could not see anything.
Finally, we reached the parking lot, and in cold and rainy weather, we started packing clothes and food for the next three days.
And we only hoped that the weather forecast wouldn't fail us and that this today's short hike to the first hut in this crappy weather will be worth it.
That's why the second thing we will never forget is the next morning when we woke up and went outside the hut.
Our hiking boots were still wet, but we could not believe that the clouds were gone, and the otherwordly scenery appeared in front of our eyes.
But more about it later.
In this travel guide, we want to share with you everything you need to know before hiking Tongariro Northern Circuit.
Tongariro Northern Circuit is a three to a four-day extension of New Zealand's most popular day-hike, Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
But if you have a few days to spare, we definitely recommend you this trek as it has a rightful place among Aotearoa's Great Walks, alias the best multi-day hikes in New Zealand.
This Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide includes tips on when is the best time for the hike, how much things cost, where to stay, how to make a reservation, and much more practical information to make your trip as smooth as possible.
We lived in New Zealand for over a year, but Tongariro Northern Circuit, together with Routeburn Track, Milford Track, or Kepler Track, belongs among our favorite places we've visited in the country.
And we hope your experience will be similar, as this national park's scenery is simply out of this world.
TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 43.1-kilometer long loop, that officially starts and ends in Whakapapa Village, this is where we parked our car.
We will talk more about safety on the trek later, but here we should mention that your car is not a safe-deposit box, and you should never leave any valuables in the car.
Or at least make sure your valuables are not plainly visible as these parking lots can attract opportunistic wrongdoers.
To finish the whole loop around Tongariro National Park, it usually takes anything between three and four days.
Some travelers decide to do the hike in only one day, but the reason behind it is usually the lack of accommodation options.
We have opted for three days/two nights variant, which we found perfect, even though the day number two was pretty challenging.
As you can see, you can adjust Tongariro Northern Circuit according to your needs, time, and level of fitness.
Tongariro Northern Circuit is an intermediate track that every average person should be able to finish.
TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT TRAILHEAD
The trailhead to Tongariro Northern Circuit is at Whakapapa Parking Lot.
Here you park your car for free, and you are ready to set off.
In case you do not travel by car, which we think is the best transportation option to see the best of New Zealand, you have to get to Whakapapa by public transport or tourist shuttle bus.
If you want to cut the first 9 kilometers from Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut (these first nine kilometers are by far the least interesting from the whole trek), you can take a shuttle from the village to Mongatepopo Road End Shelter, from where it is only a thirty minutes walk to the hut, except for the original three to four hours.
This shuttle is normally used by hikers planning on doing the one-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but there's no reason you could not use it if it makes sense.
You can book the shuttle bus in advance, we only suggest telling the driver that you do not require the pick up at the end of the day.
WHAT DIRECTION TO CHOOSE
Clockwise or anti clockwise is one of the most common questions with Tongariro Northern Circuit.
We've already mentioned that Tongariro Northern Circuit is, as the name suggests, a loop, so it is basically only your choice in what direction you are going to hike.
We did the trek in a clockwise direction, and can only recommend it to you because this way we had the views all the time before our eyes.
The second reason why we think this direction is a good choice is simple.
Most of the one-day hikers do Tongariro Alpine Crossing in this direction, and it is always better to go with the flow than to walk in the opposite direction than the majority of all travelers.
Of course, there's nothing bad on hiking this multi-day trek counterclockwise, in case it makes more sense for you.
HIKING TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT
Every keen traveler is aware that New Zealand is considered to be one of the most beautiful countries in the world.
And this three to four-day hike only proves that.
This world-class trek famous as a Lord of the Rings location because you will find here the mystique Mount Doom, is truly exceptional.
The hike climbs up through volcanic terrain with old lava fields, and the dramatic landscape is emphasized by towering volcanoes and colorful lakes.
In the next paragraphs, we would like to introduce you better Tongariro Northern Circuit, section by section.
As we've already mentioned, we finished the hike in three days.
DAY 1: WHAKAPAPA PARKING LOT TO MANGATEPOPO HUT
The section that leads from the parking lot to the first hut is not long, only nine kilometers, but the heavily eroded trail is responsible for slowing your pace down.
Therefore, this part of the trek will take you around three hours.
We had a feeling that we walked pretty fast as we did not want to be more wet than necessary, but because of the challenging terrain, we were not a bit faster.
From the very beginning of the hike, you will understand that you have the privilege of walking in the very heart of New Zealand's volcanic landscape, and you will see lava flows and volcanic cones all around you.
You'll be also, for the first time, able to see Mount Ngauruhoe.
In the end, the trail leads around one of Tongariro's more significant steam vents, Pukekaikiore.
Then we reached the hut, where we made dinner and hoped that the weather for the very long, and supposedly very beautiful day, will play along.
DAY 2: MANGATEPOPO HUT TO WAIHOHONU HUT
Some of you will probably split this day in two, but as Oturere Hut was fully booked, we had to walk as far as Waihohonu Hut.
The approximately first half of today's trail copies the one-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing, therefore it is also the busiest part.
The first section of the trek is made of boardwalks and wooden stairs, and the trail steadily climbs to Mangatepopo Valley.
The views of Mount Ngauruhoe are incredible here.
The section between Soda Springs and South Crater is known as Devil's Staircase because you will gain 200 meters in elevation.
Once you reach Mangatepopo Saddle, you can decide whether you want to take the side trip to the top of Mount Ngauruhoe alias Mount Doom or Mount Tongariro.
We have opted for Mount Ngauruhoe.
We found this side trip pretty challenging, not only the climb itself but also the descend, because of the moving scree sections.
We left our backpacks at the foot of the mountain, so we could hike light.
The falling rocks that are loosened by people who climb above you are dangerous, so make your way up carefully.
The views from the top are well worth the effort, though.
However, since 2017, rangers discourage people from climbing Mount Ngauruhoe, because firstly, it is sacred land for Iwi people and secondly, there were many accidents in the past few years.
All access signs to the peak have been removed.
The climb is not banned though, so the decision whether you want to take this side trip, is only yours.
Then we continued to South Crater and then Red Crater, which is with 1886 meters, the highest point of the trek.
The color of Red Crater is caused by oxidation of iron in the rock.
Then we rapidly descended, and the descend offered us probably the most photographed part of the entire hike, Emerald Lakes.
The lakes were formed in old craters because they are located in a volcanic area.
Water in lakes comes from melted snow, and dissolved minerals give to lakes the incredible greenish color.
You are now getting close to the place where the one-day hikers leave the loop.
We recommend you to take here one more short side trip to the shore of Blue Lake.
Once you get back to the main circuit, the trail descends to Oturere Valley.
The landscape is not less spectacular, though.
Once you pass the hut, the trail crosses stream valleys and gravel fields, and the barren scenery altogether with walking around the foothills of Mount Ngauruhoe, creates a very eerie feeling.
It felt like we were the only living organisms far and wide.
Then we descended to a beech-forested valley, only to ascend again to reach the hut, where we planned to spend the night.
DAY 3: WAIHOHONU HUT TO WHAKAPAPA PARKING LOT
The second day of the Tongariro Northern Circuit was absolutely exceptional, but it does not mean there is nothing to look forward to on day three, that will take us back to the parking lot.
Follow the Waihohonu stream, and the trail will gradually climb to Tama Saddle.
Enjoy the amazing views of Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Ruapehu.
If you do not have enough walking, it is possible to take a twenty-minute long detour to Tama Lakes.
The last part on the way to the parking lot felt a bit dull, because there was not anymore obvious highlight, and we were also tired after day two.
But our spirits lifted up when the trail led us around Taranaki Falls, that was a welcoming stop.
Then the well-maintained trail led us to the end of this amazing loop, that will always be high on our list of best hikes we've ever done.
ACCOMMODATION ALONG TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT
As it is not possible to hike Tongariro Northern Circuit in only one day, here obviously come up a question of accommodation along the route.
There are a few designated huts and campsites along the way, but it must be booked in advance during the main season that runs between the end of October till the end of April.
When you consider the popularity of New Zealand as a travel destination and realize that Tongariro National Park is a must-visit stop on almost every North Island itinerary, it is clear that you cannot underestimate making the reservation well in advance.
So how does it work?
High season | Between late October (the exact date changes every year) and April 30, it is compulsory to make a reservation for a hut or campsite.
There are three huts with adjoining campsites with limited space - Mangatepopo Hut, Oturere Hut, and Waihohonu Hut.
The booking site opens every year between June and August.
It is different for every multi-day trek that requires bookings, but you can search for the most up-to-date information on the DOC website, where you can also make the reservation.
In the main hiking season, we recommend you to book huts or campsites along the way well in advance, especially if you travel on a strict schedule.
One night in the hut cost 36 NZD per person per bunk bed, while the campsite costs 15 NZD per person.
We slept in the basic huts, that are in the Great Walk season serviced, which means there is a warden and gas for cooking and wood for heating is provided as well.
Off-season | The off-season on this particular Great Walk lasts between the beginning of May till the end of October.
During this time huts and campsites work on a first-come-first-served basis, which means you do not have to make a booking.
During this time, one night in the hut costs 15 NZD (you can use either your Backcountry Hut Pass or buy Hut Ticket), and the campsite costs only 5 NZD per person.
It is good to know that many travelers wait for May 1st when the hike gets considerably cheaper and you do not have to bother with reservation, so if you can, postpone your trip a bit until the first excitement subsides.
Also, in the winter, we recommend you sleeping in a hut rather than in the tent, Tongariro National Park is known for the rough weather conditions.
TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT SAFETY
This multi-day hike will take you through dramatic volcanic scenery.
Even though paths in the park are well-maintained, you must realize that this part of New Zealand is well-known for the ever-changing weather and most of the accidents take place because of underestimating these conditions that can change every minute.
To stay safe while hiking Tongariro Northern Circuit, make sure you check the weather forecast before you go.
Pack accordingly - never set off without proper hiking boots, rain poncho, windproof jacket, and down jacket.
We could read many stories that ended up tragically for many reasons.
But the two most common ones were exhaustion in combination with bad weather and underestimating the equipment needed for this type of hike in the alpine environment.
Also, never overestimate your physical conditions, and in case you feel you cannot continue, ask for help.
One of the most dangerous things to do on the Tongariro Northern Circuit hike is climbing Mount Ngauruhoe.
Climbing this mountain is an optional detour.
And even though it is wonderful, you should know that this route is prone to accidents because of the rocks and slippery surface, and you need to consider if doing this detour is a risk you are willing to take.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR THE HIKE
The best time for hiking Tongariro Northern Circuit copy the main season designated by the Department of Conservation, which is the end of October till the end of April.
For sure the best months for hiking in New Zealand are the summer months, December to February.
Even though the weather in this country is known for its instability, temperatures are usually higher, and there is also a lower chance of rain.
In case you want to avoid crowds, plan your visit for the shoulder season, which is marked by months of March, April, and the beginning of October.
Tongariro National Park lies in an alpine area, therefore winter is cold, and you can expect snowy and slushy weather.
For that matter, we recommend doing this hike during the winter months only to well-experienced hikers.
If you are not sure about your skills, hire a guide.
Really, the volcanic terrain is challenging even when the conditions are dry. When the snow falls, you should know how to use crampons, and even ice ax as the trail can be covered with snow.
Do not get confused by the hike's popularity, it can get really dangerous when the conditions are challenging, especially without the right equipment.
WHAT TO PACK FOR MULTI-DAY TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT
If you are an experienced hiker, you probably do not need any advice on what to pack for three to four days in the wild.
But in case you are a newbie or a traveler who has not done a multi-day hike for a while, you might need a bit of help.
The rule of thumb is not to overpack.
Always remember that you need to carry all the equipment on your back, and even the waste that you produce must be brought back to the civilization with you.
The most important is to have quality hiking boots and a backpack with a waist strap.
The key to success is to pack many layers.
Pack functional t-shirts, both short-sleeved and long-sleeved, fleece jacket, leggings, shorts, rain poncho, windbreaker, waterproof jacket, hiking pants and rain pants.
If you plan your trip for the winter, make sure you have a quality down jacket, warm socks, winter hat, and gloves.
Also, do not forget to pack extra layers and extra shoes for relaxing in the hut in the evening.
You may or may not pack hiking sticks, it depends on your preference.
Pack a water bottle and food.
When it comes to food, you can either buy dried food that is light, but a bit more expensive.
Or take whatever you like - nuts, fruit, and for example, rice, pasta, or canned tuna fish, cheese, and bread.
As we are not getting any younger, we prefer to carry one of those before mentioned dehydrated meals to hike as light as possible.
As you'll be sleeping in a hut or a tent, you need a sleeping bag , stove & gas cans, foldable knife, cooking set, headtorch.
And in case of camping, do not forget a good tent that can withstand the changeable weather and sleeping mat.
Keep in mind, that these packing tips are meant mostly for the summer time.
Winter brings snow to Tongariro NP and you are going to need a proper winter gear when hiking in this time of the year.
Lastly, you might find useful this more detailed post, Ultimate New Zealand Packing List.
WHERE TO STAY BEFORE OR AFTER THE TREK
Either Tongariro Northern Circuit or Tongariro Alpine Crossing are on almost every New Zealand travel itinerary, but it is quite hard to predict what is your destination before or after the hike.
You can either sleep directly in the lodging closest to the trailhead, but you can as well arrive from the capital city Wellington, Auckland, or Lake Taupo.
We've handpicked the best hotels in locations that are within driving distance from the national park.
Auckland | Star Park Serviced Apartments - Excellent location, great views, fitness center, and fully-equipped kitchen are the main features of this hotel.
Wellington | U Residence Hotel - The hotel in Wellington's downtown has a helpful staff, kitchenette, and modern apartments with balconies close to Te Papa Museum.
Taupo | The Reef Resort - This lovely property offers a heated outdoor pool and hot tub. You can choose a room with lake, mountain or pool view.
Tongariro National Park | Tongariro Suites - Stay in the heart of the national park and enjoy exceptionally clean rooms, delicious breakfast and the shared lounge area with the warming fireplace which you will for sure find cozy after all day hiking.
Alternatively, search for your accommodation via Hostelworld.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
