A Guide to Grey Glacier Hike in Torres del Paine
A moderately challenging day hike to Grey Glacier quickly become one of our favorite trails in Torres del Paine, a stunning national park in Chilean Patagonia. Read our hiking guide on Grey Glacier, including tips on how to get to the trailhead from Puerto Natales, what to pack, and advice on how to do the Grey Glacier without a guide or hiking the multi-day W Trek.
Many travelers who had the opportunity to hike the most famous multi-day trek in Patagonia, the W Trek, often say that seeing Grey Glacier was one of the highlights along the way.
But not everyone has enough time to spend five days hiking and camping around the Paine Massif.
And some of us just miss the booking window to secure our spots on time.
Sadly, not being able to plan our trip day by day is one of the biggest disadvantages of long term traveling, which was our case. Anyway.
Not all is gloom and doom, though.
We have great news for everyone who travels on a strict Patagonia itinerary or simply doesn't have a week or two for Torres del Paine National Park.
Fortunately, it is possible to see Gray Glacier on a day trip from Puerto Natales, even without a guided tour. Mind you. It is a long and challenging day but perfectly doable.
It's true that you can take a boat tour which will take you to the mouth of the glacier to make your life a bit easier.
However, we loved the raw beauty of Torres del Paine so much that we wanted to spend even more time hiking in the wilderness.
And walking along the lake's shores with floating icebergs in the distance while admiring the untouched Patagonian nature is simply an experience unlike any other.
Without further ado, here's our guide on how to hike the Grey Glacier Trail.
Things to Know Before You Go
One important piece of information you should know about the Grey Glacier before you start planning the trip is that the hike was harder than it seemed on paper.
The combination of extremely windy conditions and time constraints made this trail quite challenging.
It was a long and tiring day, and we felt pretty exhausted as we had to walk fast to make it to the glacier viewpoint and back in time and also to see the waterfall.
We consider ourselves quite fit travelers and must admit that after reaching Gray Glacier and nearby Salto Grande in only one day, we were glad to be back in our hostel at the end of the day.
We definitely do not want to put you off this adventure, but it is crucial to be well-prepared and know your physical limits in this case.
The ubiquitous strong wind gusts do not make the hike easy, and if the weather forecast does not look promising, we would probably come up with a backup plan.
Either way, don't underestimate the packing part, as arriving with or without proper gear can make or break your trip.
Lastly, if you want to learn more about this extraordinary part of the world, read our helpful guide on things you need to know before visiting Patagonia.
How to Get to Torres del Paine National Park
Getting to the Grey Glacier trailhead requires some effort and time, but this is the case with any place inside Torres del Paine National Park.
It's just a small price for being able to see some of Chile's most beautiful natural sights. To reach the Grey Glacier hike's starting point, you must get to the park first.
You have two options, so choose the one that fits your preferences or budget.
It is possible to stay in Puerto Natales.
In that case, you will travel back and forth every day, depending on your itinerary and the number of trails you want to tackle.
Another alternative is to stay in one of the few lodges within the park. However, this can get quite expensive, and you will need a car or arrange excursions from the lodge.
Bus
So how do you get to the park from Puerto Natales by public transport?
From Puerto Natales, you need to take a regular bus to Torres del Paine.
Several bus companies run daily buses between the park and the town, so it's a very easy thing to do even for first-time visitors.
They have an almost identical schedule and offer similar services, so we think it doesn't matter what company you choose.
Make sure to buy a ticket at the bus station one day before departure to ensure there will be a spot available at your selected time.
Although it should not happen that all spaces are sold out, bus companies usually add buses depending on the number of travelers.
They might not expect more passengers when you don't reserve your seat in advance.
Check out the up-to-date schedules before you go as they can change, but usually, the buses leave Puerto Natales at 7 AM, 8 AM, and then at 2:30 PM.
If you plan to do a day hike to Grey Glacier, take the earliest bus possible.
Leaving Puerto Natales in the afternoon is fine if you have booked a room in a lodge and can start the next day right from the park.
The round-trip ticket costs anything between 10.000 - 15.000 CLP.
The bus has three stops in the park.
The first stop is Laguna Amarga, from where most of the park's visitors walk to the most famous sight in Torres del Paine, the Towers.
You don't get out of the bus here unless you need to pay the entrance fee or your driver tells you to change the bus.
The drive to Laguna Amarga takes approximately an hour and a half.
How to Get to Grey Glacier Trailhead
The second stop is Pudeto, and this is the place where you need to get off the bus.
The drive from Laguna Amarga, including waiting time for people who needed to buy a ticket, took approximately another 45 minutes.
Here in Pudeto, you need to wait for a boat that will take you across Pehoe Lake to the Grey Glacier trailhead.
You will buy the round-trip ticket on the boat for 30.000 CLP.
The boat schedule differs depending on the season.
You will most likely catch the transport across Pehoe Lake from Pudeto at 11 AM, which means you will start your hike around 11:30 AM when leaving Puerto Natales at 7 AM.
To get back from Pudeto to either Laguna Amarga or Puerto Natales, you need to follow your morning steps in reverse order.
Jump on a boat leaving at 5 PM or 6 PM from Guarderia Paine Grande, and in Pudeto, there should already be a bus scheduled for 6 PM waiting for passengers.
As you can see, it seems that the 5 PM catamaran is the last one you can take in order to catch the bus (that's why we were so in a hurry during this trek), but apparently, this bus waits also for the last boat arriving at Pudeto around 6:30 PM.
It will leave you more time for the hike itself, but you won't have enough time to see Salto Grande or explore the trail any further toward the Horns of Paine.
Always make sure that the driver waits here for the last boat so you won't miss your ride back to Puerto Natales.
Rental Car
If you do not want to depend on public transport, you can rent a car in Punta Arenas.
When traveling by air to Chilean Patagonia, this is where the majority of travelers will land. From here, you can explore Torres del Paine at your own pace.
Of course, you can also rent a car directly in Puerto Natales, which is closer to the national park.
Here you can find the best deals on rental cars in Puerto Natalaes.
Grey Glacier Tours
Although it's entirely possible to visit Grey Glacier independently by following our steps, you might want to consider an easier approach.
In this case, you can explore Grey Glacier on a boat tour.
Alternatively, you can take a Torres del Paine Tour that includes a 1-hike to see the glacier and several other top attractions in the park.
If you are intrigued about Patagonia and the fascinating Torres del Paine scenery, you might be as well considering doing the W Trek.
Here you can reserve a 5-Day W Trek that includes the trail section leading along the Grey Glacier.
Entrance Fee
While the Grey Glacier hike is free, you need to pay the entry fee to the national park.
The entrance fee we bought at Laguna Amarga's office (you can buy the ticket in advance in Puerto Natales at the bus station) for Torres del Paine was pretty steep, 21.000 CLP per person.
With this ticket, you can hike any multi-day trek within the park or visit the park on three consecutive days from Puerto Natales.
Simply put, traveling to the national park more than once pays off because of the initial high ticket cost.
Fortunately, the neighboring Mirador Las Torres and French Valley are some of the best day hikes in Patagonia.
In order to buy the entrance fee, you need to wait in line for approximately 30 minutes, fill out several forms and show your passport.
It should be enough to have a copy or a print screen on your phone.
Trail Description
For starters, Grey Glacier is a 24-kilometer out-and-back trail with 500 meters of elevation gain.
We must also point out once again that if you plan on hiking in one day from Refugio Paine Grande, there are some time limitations that you need to take into consideration.
Refugio Paine Grande is where the boat will drop you off. From here to Refugio Glaciar Grey, the best viewpoint of the glacier, you need to walk 12 kilometers one way.
You have to complete the trail in approximately five and half hours in case you want to catch the boat back at 5 PM or in six and half hours if you want to take the last boat leaving for Pudeto at 6 PM.
The distance and limited time are quite challenging because the trail's profile goes up and down all the time, and the path is incredibly windy.
We took half an hour break for lunch at a spot with perfect views near Refugio Glaciar Grey and later had to run on the way back to be at the port on time.
The good news is that the hike is very scenic, almost right from the beginning, and you don't need to actually walk as far as we did to see the glacier.
Therefore, you can walk as far as you want, such as to the Mirador Grey, from where you also get splendid views, and then turn back at a time of your choosing.
Grey Glacier Hike
Despite the strong winds, hiking the Grey Glacier trail was fun.
Even now, we still consider it one of the best things we did in Chilean Patagonia.
Grey Glacier is an in-and-out trail, but the scenery is insanely beautiful, and we haven't met many people on the path.
And as the landscape was stunning even when we turned around, we didn't mind retracing our steps.
Refugio Paine Grande
The boat dropped us off at the Refugio Paine Grande, and as we were a bit behind schedule already, we headed out to the trailhead right after we landed.
The first section of the hike climbed steadily up, though the incline wasn't steep. However, the wind made this part incredibly grueling.
Here we also realized that if the wind keeps blowing this hard the entire time, we might not be able to get to the last viewpoint in time.
We tried to walk fast, but it seemed that we were almost not moving while burning too much energy.
Keeping a steady pace instead of pushing hard was a better strategy on this trail.
When we reached a small plain covered only with shrubs and bushes after some time, we saw the beautiful Lake Grey for the very first time.
The views were stunning, especially when we could see small icebergs floating on the surface of a massive lake fed by the glacier.
From here, we carried on along an almost flat path for a while.
At this time, the strong wind started to pick up once again and did not stop for the entire day, making the hike even more challenging.
t's a strange experience, but the wind can really get into your head if you let it.
Mirador Lago Grey
After approximately six kilometers, we arrived at the Mirador Grey, which rewarded us with another wonderful view of the glacier in the distance.
The entire scenery opened up in front of us, and even after all those weeks in Patagonia, we still couldn't believe our eyes how remarkably beautiful the local landscape was.
I tried to take some photos of the glacier with my telephoto lens, but it was almost impossible to keep my hands steady due to severe wind gusts.
When you arrive here, don't forget to check how long it took you to get here.
This is an excellent point to turn around if you're behind schedule or don't have enough energy left to continue any further.
Refugio Grey
From here, the trail steeply descended, which was a welcoming change at that moment.
On the other hand, we knew that we would need to climb the same hill on the way back, which was not a very pleasant thought.
The trail led down the mountain slope until we reached a few zig-zags and eventually the lowest point in this section.
Then the path again continued up and down until we emerged in front of a Refugio.
The second part of this 5-kilometer section can be a bit tiring as it's not as exciting as the rest of the hike.
Refugio Grey is a place where trekkers with a reservation can either stay in a hut or the campground.
Therefore, you will meet plenty of people doing the W or O Trek here.
Glacier Grey Viewpoint
From this point, it was less than one kilometer to the viewpoint right in front of Glacier Grey.
When we got there, we enjoyed the glacier views one more time and snapped some pictures.
The glacier is still a bit in the distance, so the visit was not as intense as in Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina, but there were no crowds around, so we really enjoyed the views.
Grey Glacier is a retreating glacier in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, so we can only hope it won't melt anytime soon.
Then we had a simple lunch with a couple from the U.S. we met along the trail and then had to set off on a journey back to the boat pick-up point.
This time, we knew we had to be fast, but the return was not that grueling as we were looking forward to seeing the unspoiled Patagonian scenery from a different perspective.
Fortunately, we made it to the boat on time and were able to visit another place we had on our packed itinerary.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
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Mirador Salto Grande
After we arrived by boat back to Pudeto, we had some time before the bus left for Puerto Natales, so we decided to go to Mirador Salto Grande.
Salto Grande is a powerful waterfall set against a backdrop of incredibly beautiful mountains and is definitely worth the visit.
It was almost another two kilometers to the waterfall from the parking lot and then two kilometers back while the wind was not slowing down.
Therefore, we think it is better to see the glacier first thing in the morning, and then you can decide if you still have enough energy and time to see the waterfall before the bus to Puerto Natales leaves.
If you take the last ferry back to Pudeto and you don't visit Salto Grande in the morning, you won't have time to visit this stunning waterfall in the afternoon.
This was another reason why we were in such a hurry on the way back and tried to catch the earlier ferry, as we skipped the morning visit to Salto Grande but still wanted to see it.
By the way, Salto Grande is a part of the Mirador Cuernos trail, which some hikers visit on a separate trip.
What to Pack
Be ready that the hike to Grey Glacier with transport from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park will take you all day.
You will leave Puerto Natales at 7 AM and arrive back in the town around 9 PM.
In a nutshell, you need to bring with you water, energy bars, snacks, and proper gear with extra layers of clothes because the weather in Patagonia is unpredictable.
There also are a restaurant and cafeteria at Pudeto where the bus stops, in case you are hungry.
So, here are the essential things you should pack with you for a Grey Glacier day hike.
To make your trip as comfortable as possible, carry a comfortable daypack with back support and waist strap.
Also, sturdy hiking boots are a must-have.
If you have trekking poles, use them, they will help you a lot on this hike, especially in battling the strong winds.
Make sure that snacks, water, travel camera, and extra layers fit there comfortably.
The region of Patagonia is cold even in summer, so bring along a fleece jacket, down jacket, or any additional layer with long sleeves to stay warm throughout the entire hike.
It can start raining any time of the year in Patagonia's mountains, so a good rain jacket is a must-have. Make sure that the one you have is also windproof.
We also always bring a good old rain poncho in case the light rain turns into a downpour.
For our valuables, we use a simple, lightweight dry sack.
Wind in Patagonia is so strong, especially during the summer hiking season, that you should also consider a good windbreaker in case the weather turns out to be fine.
Otherwise, your day in the wilderness could be quite miserable.
Multifunctional headwear is a great little thing you can use against dust, wind, and sun.
Don't forget to apply sunscreen, even when temperatures are still low.
Tap water in Chile is usually not drinkable, but it is a different story in the mountains, where you can drink water from streams.
Therefore, pack your trusty reusable water bottle to reduce your plastic footprint.
If you are concerned about water quality due to the movement of other trekkers or horses on the trail, use SteriPen or a water bottle with a filter instead.
We've also created an in-depth Patagonia packing list which includes more information on this topic.
Where to Stay
You have three options on where to stay before or after hiking to Grey Glacier. It all comes down to your preferences and itinerary.
Camping in the national park is cheap but requires making reservations months in advance. Lodges inside the park are conveniently located but expensive.
And Puerto Natales has good hotels for affordable prices, but it's about an hour and a half drive from the park entrance.
Torres Del Paine
Torres del Paine National Park lodges are generally very expensive, especially in the peak season.
On the other hand, they offer much better views and a more authentic experience than hotels in Puerto Natales.
Hotel Lago Grey | If you want to spend an unforgettable night in Torres del Paine National Park, there is an option to reserve a room in Hotel Lago Grey. When staying here overnight, you will have a chance to enjoy the spectacular views of the Patagonian wilderness through your hotel room window. Despite its remote location, this hotel sitting on the shore of the lake offers luxurious accommodation. You will need a car to get there or prearrange a hotel transfer from Puerto Natales.
Refugio Paine Grande
People hiking multi-day W or O Trek need to book a spot at Refugio Paine Grande or a campground well in advance.
If you lucked out, you might be able to secure your spot even a few days before arriving in Torres del Paine, as cancellations occur from time to time.
A bunk bed or camping spot must be booked through the company owning the site. In this case, it's Vertice Patagonia.
Puerto Natales
We based ourselves in Puerto Natales, a small town about 100 kilometers south of Torres del Paine. From here, we took a few day trips to the national park.
While it was not a perfect solution, we believe it was a cheap and good way to see the Torres del Paine in the end.
Here we've hand-selected top hotels in Puerto Natales for every budget.
Budget | Hostal Boutique Factoria Patagonia - One of the nicest and most modern hostels in Puerto Natales, Factoria Patagonia features both dormitories and private rooms, a heartful breakfast, and good Wi-Fi. Don't forget to try the homemade pasta in the on-site restaurant.
Mid-range | Kau Lodge - Located at the waterfront, Kau Lodge is one of the most popular accommodations in Puerto Natales. Rooms are cozy, bright, and equipped with heating and offer fantastic views of the Canal Senoret. The complimentary breakfast is just icing on the cake. Simply put, this hotel offers great value for your money.
Luxury | Hotel Simple Patagonia - Do you want to feel the real Patagonia from the comfort of your hotel room? Simple Patagonia is often considered to be the best hotel in Puerto Natales. It's located outside the town and offers fantastic views, beautiful design, and excellent services. If budget is not an issue, you won't find a better place than this hotel.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
