A Travel Guide to Puyuhuapi, Chile
Read our travel guide on the best things to do in Puyuhuapi, Chile. Includes tips on when to go, activities, how to get, or where to stay.
Puyuhuapi is a laidback village located on Carretera Austral in Chilean Patagonia. And while it might not be the most popular stop on this scenic road, it would be a shame to skip it.
You probably don't know it yet, but Puyuhuapi is a gateway to Queulat National Park.
And its shining star, Hanging Glacier, is often rated as one of the top attractions in Patagonia. It has not only a really cool name, but it's also a wonderful thing to see.
If you are road tripping Carretera Austral, you will most likely pass by this settlement at some point anyway.
So why not enjoy the stunning scenery of the Aysen region that offers another insight into diverse Patagonian nature.
Without further ado, here's everything you need to know about Puyuhuapi before you go.
History
The nomadic Chono people navigated the fjords on their canoes in the pre-Hispanic era, and their history always makes you wonder how they could adapt to such an inhospitable region.
The recent Puyuhuapi history is connected with German influence, like some other places in Patagonia, such as Puerto Varas or Pucon.
German Bohemians settlers founded the village in the 1930s (the next wave arrived after World War II) and made a living out of farming, fishing, and carpet factory.
Interestingly enough, they came from the small town of Rossbach (Hranice), which lies in today's Czech Republic, something we found quite interesting.
Nowadays, tourism has taken over, and the town is quite dependent on travelers coming to Chilean Patagonia from all over the world.
What to See and Do in Puyuhuapi
At first sight, there is not much to do in Puyuhuapi. Well, not even at second sight, to be honest. But Puyuhuapi serves as a perfect base for visitors heading out to the Queulat National Park.
And if you combine it either with staying in one of its remote lodges or family guesthouses, you won't sure get bored.
Even just looking at the clouds and hills reflections on a perfectly still water surface in the morning will put a light smile on your face.
Queulat National Park
Mild oceanic climate, together with abundant rainfall, keeps the area green all year round. And as you've probably guessed already, the best way to explore it is on foot.
The nearby Queulat National Park is the main reason to visit Puyuhuapi, and while it's often rainy and cloudy there, it sure adds up the atmosphere.
The flora, the fauna, the scenery, and the lovely hiking trails create an unforgettable experience.
Some people we met on the road told us that they were a bit disappointed by the trails or the lack of views.
While we agree that you will find more striking places in Patagonia, we had a great time there, and the overall experience was very positive.
The most popular hiking trails in Queulat National Park are Sendero Laguna Tempanos and Mirador Ventisquero Colgante Trail (that's the one from where you can see the Hanging Glacier).
Even summer days receive a lot of precipitation, so don't forget to bring a waterproof rain jacket and proper footwear.
The easiest way to get to Queulat National Park from Puyuhuapi (or Carretera Austral if you don't want to stay in the village) is by car.
So what about the bus to Queulat National Park from Puyuhuapi? There was no shuttle bus service running between Puyuhuapi and the national park at the time of our visit.
However, timetables and bus lines in Patagonia are prone to changes, so this might be different at the time of your visit, so we always recommend asking around. Personally, we decided to hitchhike.
The entrance fee to Queulat National Park is 9000 CLP per adult.
On the way back to town, you can stop at Termas Ventisquero de Puyuhuapi, a decent springs at the sideroad, where you can warm up your body on an especially cold and rainy day.
However, the 20.000 CLP entrance fee makes you wonder whether it's worth it or not.
Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa
Although Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa is not a typical attraction you would expect from this little settlement, we can't fail to include it on our list of top things to do in Puyuhuapi.
Even if you are a budget traveler who doesn't plan on spending a fortune on accommodation, it never hurts to look at this hidden gem in the middle of the fjord.
Firstly, this beautiful lodge is not located directly in Puyuhuapi. As the crow flies, you will find it about 12 kilometers south of the village, and it's only accessible by boat.
So if you are looking for a way to find serenity in the heart of Patagonia in style and don't mind spending some money on it, then don't look any further.
Secondly, the lodge features a swimming pool, a spa, and outdoor natural hot springs. Add an on-site restaurant serving local meals, and you have a place that will cater to all your needs.
Well, unless you don't need Wi-Fi or mobile signal.
This accommodation is definitely not cheap, and the rooms are arguably not as luxurious as you would find at some other places along the main road in the same price range.
But this place is all about the location, which is hard to beat, and the lack of internet makes you focus on important things.
If you are looking for a way to disconnect from this hectic world, Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa will deliver this experience.
Activities
Due to Puyuhuapi's coastal location at the end of the inlet, you can go kayaking or fishing while there.
Renting a kayak in Puyuhuapi is quite easy in either the campground or travel agency.
You can also hire a guide (38.000 CLP) that will paddle with you, but the tour is obviously a bit pricier alternative than when you paddle on your own.
If lucky, you might even spot seals or dolphins that live in the fjord, but spotting wildlife is never guaranteed.
Another interesting activity might be biking to Queulat National Park if you're looking to stay fit while traveling.
As the park entrance is about 22 kilometers from Puyuhuapi, it means you need to cycle 44 kilometers in total.
Plus, add the hiking distances that you will cover in the park on foot, and you are for sure about to have a long day ahead of you.
A slightly more comfortable way to do this is to arrange transport (18.000 CLP) that will allow you to travel to the park on your own, and after you return from the hikes, it will take you and your rental bikes back to Puyuhuapi.
When to Go
The best time to visit Puyuhuapi is summer, as you have the best chance for nice weather.
The driest period is from October to March (the driest month is February), but be prepared that it rains here even during this time.
Queulat National Park is one of the rainiest places in Patagonia, and we believe that we can speak from experience here.
Funnily enough, we had the worst weather of our entire Patagonian trip right here in Puyuhuapi.
We even stayed a day longer as it rained so hard on the day of our visit that we postponed our trip to Queulat National Park.
Therefore, we even spent here the New Year's Eve.
Having (always) an extra day available is a secret weapon of every long term traveler, but we would suggest having a flexible Patagonia itinerary even if you are visiting only on a short(er) vacation.
If you would like to read more on this topic, this blog post on when to go to Patagonia might help you find your answers.
Lastly, as the name suggests, the Hanging Glacier is jutting from the mountain, and it can be quite often covered in a mist or clouds.
It's important to lower your expectations to avoid disappointment and have a better trip.
And by the way, the Queulat National Park can be a bit crowded in the summer, but it's nothing compared to places such as Perito Moreno, El Chalten, or Torres del Paine further down south.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
Where to Stay
As mentioned earlier, Puyuhuapi is a village (or a very tiny town), so you can't expect to find hundreds of accommodations there.
Having said that, we are quite confident to say that every traveler will eventually find a suitable place to stay.
We already talked about the best hotel in Puyuhuapi in this blog post, so here are a few accommodations that are great alternatives for those who have a smaller budget.
As the town is very compact, you will find mostly small guesthouses there. They are mostly located between Rio Pascua and the sea so that you can reach everything on foot.
Budget | Hostal y Cabanas Ventisquero - A lovely centrally located little guesthouse with a fully-equipped kitchen will provide everything that every budget traveler needs. Rooms are small and cozy, and free Wi-Fi is included. A fireplace in the hall in front of the rooms makes sure you stay warm throughout the day.
Mid-range | Cabana Senderos Puyuhuapi - Another lovely guesthouse, Cabana Senderos Puyuhuapi, features clean and nicely furnished rooms, comfortable beds, free Wi-Fi, excellent location, and welcoming hosts.
Mid-range | El Pangue Lodge - If you want to stay outside the town, El Pangue Lodge might be a perfect fit for you. Located on the shores of Pisopatron Lake, about 17 kilometers north of Puyuhuapi, this charming lodge will allow you to get even closer to Patagonian nature. The cabins are equipped with kitchens, and the lodge also features a hot tub. Of course, having a rental car is a must in this case.
Camping
If you're camping in Patagonia, then you are probably looking for a campsite in this area.
The good news is that you can find a couple of campgrounds in Puyuhuapi near the lake's shore that is quite affordable.
The campsites are quite basic, but they provide sheltered spaces that come in handy when it rains.
The first impression from the roofed sites will not exactly blow you away, but the practical side wins over aesthetics in this rainy region every time.
A common area with a wood burner where you can cook your meals and hot showers are included.
The campsite in Puyuhuapi costs 5.000 CLP per person, regardless of whether you stay in La Sirena or Rio Mar.
Moreover, you can find a campground in Queulat National Park. There are limited spaces, but the experience is on another level as you will stay directly in the park.
The campsite costs 6.000 CLP per person.
Of course, you need to pay the entrance fee to the national park in order to stay here as well, but that shouldn't be a problem as you will want to visit the park either way.
In case the campsite is full, and you don't want to retrace your steps back to the town, there are two additional campgrounds near the Carretera Austral and Acceso Parque Queulat Road junction.
How to Get There
There are two main ways to get to Puyuhuapi, public transport or a rental car. Public transport along the Carretera Austral is not bad but obviously can't compete with the convenience of a rental car.
Remember that you need not only get in and out, but you also have to get to Queulat National Park somehow.
While we managed to get around using the combination of a bus and hitchhiking, it might not be what you can expect from your vacation.
Car
A rental car allows you to travel along the Carretera Austral at your own pace and gives you a freedom that you won't find in public transport.
The car is extremely convenient in places such as Puyuhuapi, as the nearest national park is more than 20 kilometers from the town.
Chaiten, home to Pumalin National Park and Chaiten Volcano, is located 188 kilometers north of Puyuhuapi, and it takes about three hours to get there (without stops).
Continue further south, and your next stop can be either Coyhaique (233 kilometers, 4 hours) or Villa Cerro Castillo (328 kilometers, 5-6 hours), home to Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo.
Bus
A direct bus from Chaiten to Puyuhuapi runs three times a week, so you need to take this information into account when planning your trip.
Or you can take a bus to La Junta from Chaiten, from where you can take the bus to Puyuhuapi, which is more frequent.
Bus schedules change in Patagonia, so always make sure that you're using an up-to-date timetable.
The bus from Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique runs every day, so it's much easier to travel in this direction.
The bus leaves Puyuhuapi at 6 AM, and you really should purchase a ticket in advance at the grocery store next to the police station.
The buses are often full in the high season, and you don't want to be stuck in the village until the next day (if you don't like hitchhiking).
Hitchhiking
Lastly, you can try hitchhiking. We hitchhiked to Queulat National Park and back in December without too much hassle.
Having said that, one of the readers wrote us that the situation was quite different in November as the traffic was even lighter than in the peak season.
Unless you travel on a budget trying to save as much money as possible (and have extra time if things don't work out), hitchhiking should always be your last option to get around Carretera Austral.
Services
Despite its small size, Puyuhuapi has everything you need. A few small grocery stores (supermercado) can be found in the town together with restaurants or travel agencies.
The local grocery stores are usually well-stocked given the circumstances.
Veggies or fruits are usually pretty expensive or not very fresh (or both), but well-supplied on durable food.
As in Chaiten or other coastal towns, you might want to try one of the freshly caught fishes (or crabs) if on the menu.
A Copec gas station is located a bit unintuitively in the southwest tip of the town, a bit off the main road.
Still, it's only 750 meters from the town center, so you can get there by car in two to three minutes.
Due to its relative remoteness, expect higher prices for everything.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
