Popayan: Travel Guide
Popayan is a charming colonial city in Colombia's Cauca department, where it is possible to break your journey before crossing borders to Ecuador. Here is our travel guide to Popayan, Colombia's White City. You can read about the best things to do in Popayan, how to get there, tips on where to stay, and safety advice.
Popayan is a colonial-era city often nicknamed La Ciudad Blanca, alias the White City.
Even though Popayan is one of Colombia's destinations that is not on the official Gringo trail, it is one of the most beautiful cities in the country because of the whitewashed houses and pretty historical center, which can be easily explored on foot.
If you happen to be in Colombia's southwest and plan on visiting the UNESCO site in San Agustin or crossing the borders to Ecuador, Popayan is definitely a great place to break your journey.
The city has a rich and vibrant history. It was once an important transportation hub between Colombia's most prominent cities such as Bogota and Cartagena, but it also in the past connected (and still connects) Colombia with Ecuador.
Popayan is super-photogenic, and the great news is that all the must-visit attractions in the city can be seen within one day.
Of course, some of the best things to do in Popayan are outside the city limits, but in that case, you would need two to three days minimum.
Popayan doesn't have the best reputation when it comes to safety (although we felt absolutely safe in the center and when walking between the center and bus terminal) and is often overlooked by vacationers who have limited time on their Colombia itinerary and usually visit more popular and well-accessible travel destinations around the country.
However, this means only one thing.
The city is not crowded, and you will mostly meet here either Colombians or backpackers traveling down south to Ecuador.
If you want to get the best of Popayan, in our view, the most underrated city in Colombia, keep on reading.
This travel guide includes tips on the best things to do in the city, but we also share practical information such as where to stay or how to get there.
POPAYAN, COLOMBIA
In the 16th century, during Spanish colonization, Sebastian de Belalcazar traveled to southern Colombia to search for a fabled El Dorado treasure and founded the city of Popayan on 13th January 1537.
Popayan quickly became a seat of Spanish power in the country and kept its prominent status throughout the centuries, thanks to its strategic position located on the way between Cartagena, Bogota, and Ecuador.
The result was imminent. Many important Spanish families built pompous mansions, houses, and churches around the city, and the city development took a huge leap.
The city was a witness to several earthquakes in the past.
The last big earthquake happened in the 1980s, and did a lot of damage to the buildings, and even though the city had been rebuilt since then, when looking closely you still can see that some buildings haven't been repaired yet.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN POPAYAN
Popayan is one of the oldest and best-preserved cities in South America, and the colonial architecture is the main reason to visit the place.
Most of the top attractions are within the city center, and you won't have any problems finding them.
Popayan is surprisingly a vivacious city with many restaurants (it is UNESCO’s Creative City of Gastronomy), but the main highlight here is the sightseeing.
What are the best things to see in Popayan?
Let's find out.
PUENTE DEL HUMILLADERO
A true architectonic gem built in 1873 is on the way out from the city center. This 240 meters long bridge stretches over the Molino river and is a must-see while exploring the White City.
There is a park beneath the bridge, and this peaceful area attracts both locals and tourists who hang there in the late afternoon.
We found this bridge very photogenic, and it was actually the first sight we saw in Popayan because we slept in a hotel, just a stone's throw away from the historical center.
Not that long time ago, in the 19th century, this bridge was used by poor people who needed to get to the marketplace to sell their stuff, therefore the name Humiliation Bridge.
If you are interested in colonial times, we've created this list of Best Colonial Towns in Colombia.
PARQUE CALDAS
This park, which is actually Popayan's main plaza, is a great place to take a rest.
There are many benches and plenty of shade from the tall trees, so grab a snack from a stall nearby and watch life go by.
Popayan is exactly the city where the time flies slowly, so embrace the atmosphere.
You will find two major city attractions, a clock tower and the main cathedral on the square's sides.
TORRE DEL RELOJ
Constructed between 1673 and 1682, Torre del Reloj, alias the Clock Tower, is a simple square whitewashed building on the main plaza.
If you take a closer look, you might find that there is something odd about the clock.
We won't spoil you the surprise, go to the square and check out the clock by yourself - there is quite an interesting story behind the tower's construction too.
CATHEDRAL BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF THE ASSUMPTION
The main cathedral is majestic and very photogenic, and together with the Clock Tower, it's a must-see thing in Popayan.
The white facade is quite peaceful and has been rebuilt after the strong earthquake in 1983 because it was badly damaged.
SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH
There are quite many churches in Popayan, but the San Francisco church belongs to the biggest ones in the city, and it is for sure one of the most beautiful ones you can visit during your trip.
It is one of a few buildings in Popayan that facade is not white, which is a nice change.
Also, the earthquake in 1983 revealed six mummies inside one of the chapels, and therefore many local people believe this church is mysterious.
Go and check it out yourself.
MUSEUMS
Popayan is a large city with over 300 000 inhabitants, but it does not feel that way, at least in the historic center. It felt more like a small colonial town Villa de Leyva, to be honest.
And same as this town, many wonderful buildings in Popayan were turned into interesting museums and exhibitions.
In case you are a museum lover, have a lot of free time, or the weather on the day of your visit simply does not play along, make sure you visit at least one of them.
The Natural History Museum or Museo Guillermo Valencia are the best picks.
SEMANA SANTA
Religion still plays an important role in everyday life of people living in Colombia, and Popayan hosts a traditional event around Easter called Semana Santa when thousands of people flood the streets every year to celebrate the Holy Week.
The tradition has been held since the 16th century till today, and it's part of the UNESCO heritage list.
Unfortunately, we visited the city in September and didn't get a chance to see these world-renown celebrations, but it must be quite a sight.
We experienced Easter celebrations the next year in Antigua, Guatemala, and it was one of the highlights of our trip around Central America.
In case you plan your itinerary and happen to be in Colombia during the Holy Week, try to plan your trip to Popayan; this celebration is truly one of the best things you can see in the city.
PARQUE NATURAL DE PURACE
If you ever get tired of the bustling city, visiting the park might be an interesting idea of where to go next.
High in the Andes mountains, you can see various flora, fauna, spot condors, or climb an active volcano at 4700 meters above sea level.
It is not allowed to climb the volcano on your own, so you need to hire a local guide at the entrance or visit it with an organized tour from Popayan.
Make sure to have the proper gear, a good rain jacket is a must.
IS POPAYAN SAFE?
In general, Popayan is a safe city, use your common sense, and you should be fine. We didn't have any problems walking around the city center, and from the bus terminal to our hotel.
We stayed about 5 minutes walk from the main square in a nice clean hotel, and the only inconvenience we encountered was when a strayed dog started harassing one of the locals.
However, you are still in Colombia, and there are areas in the city where you shouldn't go. Luckily they are mostly on the city outskirts, away from the tourist attractions.
We've created a detailed post on How to Stay Safe When Traveling in South America, so check it out and stay safe!
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
READ MORE:
10 Best Places to Visit in Colombia
21 Things You Need to Know Before Visiting Colombia
Hiking in Los Nevados National Park: Best Trek in Colombia
Medellin Guide: A City of Eternal Spring and Transformation
Ultimate Guide to Tayrona National Park, Colombia
What To Pack For South America: Ultimate Packing List
HOW TO GET TO POPAYAN
The closest cities from Popayan are Cali and Pasto, and they are both easily reachable by bus. You can also find a small airport in Popayan, but there are only a few flights a day and tickets are expensive.
We arrived in Popayan from San Agustin, home to UNESCO archeological park, only 135 kilometers away.
Despite the short distance between those two cities, it took us around 6 hours to get there, as the road is unsealed and it is winding through the Purace National Park.
This route is quite spectacular but time-consuming, and if you are prone to motion sickness, we advise you to take a pill.
The stretch between San Agustin and Popayan was also the only place in Colombia where police searched us as this region is infamously known for drug trafficking.
From Popayan, you can continue south to the borders with Ecuador. That's exactly what we did.
We left the city at 11 AM and traveled for about 8 hours to Ipiales, a small and dirty border town near Ecuador.
There we stayed overnight and crossed the borders from Colombia to Ecuador the next day.
WHERE TO STAY IN POPAYAN
Popayan has a wonderful historical center, and it would be a shame not to stay nearby, especially if you have only one night planned in the city as we had.
We were able to find a hotel last-minute, but make sure you book your room well ahead when traveling to Popayan during Easter.
We've handpicked the three best hotels for every type of traveler.
Budget | Araracuara Hostel - A friendly and colorful hostel is a great option for all travelers on a budget looking for a clean and modern place to stay.
Mid-range | Hotel La Plazuela - The great thing about Popayan is that the hotel rooms' rates are pretty cheap, so you can enjoy, for example, this hotel located in a colonial mansion for a very reasonable price.
Luxury | Hotel Dann Monasterio - Right in the heart of Popayan is the best hotel you can possibly find in the city. It is situated in the old convent, rooms are well-appointed, and guests can enjoy views of the courtyard and outdoor swimming pool.
WHEN TO VISIT POPAYAN
The city lies at an altitude about 1700 meters above sea level.
The average temperature is between 18-19 degrees Celsius throughout the year, so you can put Popayan on your itinerary anytime you decide to visit Colombia.
Probably the best time to visit Popayan is between December and February, a dry season.
On the other hand, there are not that many things to see and do in Popayan, and you'll be able to see all the highlights even when it rains.
Pack a travel umbrella, and make sure you have a jacket for cooler evenings.
As we've mentioned above, we felt quite safe in Popayan, but we stuck to the well-trodden path.
In case you feel adventurous and want to wander around, an anti-theft daypack or travel pouch might be a good idea
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
