A Complete Guide to Tatacoa Desert, Colombia
Here's our travel guide to the Tatacoa Desert, Colombia. Read more about how to get to the Tatacoa Desert (Desierto de la Tatacoa), where to stay, the best things to do, how to get around, how many days you need, or where to eat.
Tatacoa Desert, alias Desierto de la Tatacoa, is one of those travel destinations that will reward you for being brave and traveling off the beaten path.
No, this place in Colombia's Huila department is not entirely unknown.
However, many international travelers still do not have it on their Colombia itinerary as it is a detour from the well-trodden Gringo Trail.
If you have a few days to spare, we can only encourage you to visit the Tatacoa Desert.
The desert offers a few hiking trails, photogenic labyrinths made of uniquely shaped formations, cacti trees, relaxation by the pools, and perfect stargazing opportunities.
In short, these are the best things to do here, but what is more important is that if your travel style is at least a bit similar to ours, you will appreciate the scenery and rustic atmosphere that only enhances the beauty of the surroundings.
TATACOA DESERT
What should you know before you start planning a trip to the Tatacoa Desert?
Probably the fact that it is not actually desert in the true sense of the term. It's rather a dry tropical forest or semi-desert, which means one thing.
Even though temperatures are often very high and the sun is blazing, it rains quite a lot in the Tatacoa or at least more than you would have expected.
Do you still feel there’s something that puts you off traveling to the Tatacoa? No worries, it is not hard at all.
And we believe that after reading this travel guide for the first time visitors, you will know not only what are the best things to see and do in the desert, but it will also be clear how to get there and how to incorporate this destination in your Colombia itinerary.
Colombia is such a diverse country - it has the sea, wonderful beaches, snow-capped mountains, jungle forests, coffee regions, giant palms, and colonial towns.
And deserts.
Therefore, it would be a shame not to see one more thing that only increases the attractivity, the colorful desert featuring the alien-like landscape.
BEST THINGS TO DO AT THE TATACOA DESERT
Tatacoa Desert is full of surprises. It offers quite many things to do, but what is more important, it has an unmistakable atmosphere, very similar we imagine to be in the old Western movies.
Everything is so quiet, the heat is almost unbearable, and the eroded scenery defined either by the red or gray color is only from time to time disrupted by a large cacti tree.
Tatacoa Desert is very visual, and one of the best things is that you can explore it on own, but if you prefer to be accompanied by an experienced guide, there's always someone who will happily show you around.
Here's the list of the best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert that you can consider for filling your days.
TATACOA DESERT ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY
Stargazing is one of the most popular things to do in the Tatacoa Desert. Thanks to the remote position and almost no artificial lights in the community, light pollution is very low.
Therefore the conditions for watching the stars are practically perfect.
Every day, around 6:30 PM (check out the up-to-date program once you reach the desert), you can visit Astronomical Observatory, which offers a guided tour and the possibility of using their telescope for better views.
The guided tour costs 10 000 COP and is only in Spanish.
On the day of our visit was the sky in the evening quite cloudy, so we decided to skip this activity, and we headed just outside the inhabited area where it was pitch dark to look for the stars ourselves.
RED DESERT
Tatacoa Desert has two parts. The most famous one, which has a red color, is close to the center of the settlement.
Therefore it is also visited by the majority of travelers. There are several viewpoints along the road from where you can observe the unusual scenery.
Still, we can only recommend you lace up your hiking boots and set off to explore the short loop that will take you around some of the most spectacular landscapes in this destination.
The whole loop is very well-marked, and you can read more about our experience in the post dedicated to Tatacoa's Red Desert Hike.
Make sure to watch your steps because of cacti plants and snakes.
GRAY DESERT
Even though the Red Desert photos are iconic, you should not miss Gray Desert Hike either.
The Gray Desert is eight kilometers from the center of Tatacoa Desert, but it is easy to get there either on a bike or by tuk-tuk.
As we've already mentioned, even though it is possible to admire the surreal landscape from the road, your experience will be completely different when you walk one of the trails on foot.
Gray Desert is more abandoned, but no worries, it is safe.
Just make sure you have enough water, and download the offline Maps.me app, that will help you with the orientation.
We were hiking in the Gray Desert just before the sunset, and it was spectacular.
In general, sunsets in anywhere in the desert are usually excellent, so make sure you don't miss it.
SWIMMING POOL
Most of the hostels and hotels in the Tatacoa Desert and the area have a swimming pool, for obvious reasons.
Not only travelers but locals alike like to cool off after all day in the sun.
The Gray Desert is also famous, except for the hike, for Piscina Mineral, an artificial pool set in the surreal landscape.
In case you look for a place where to break your journey and relax by the pool, Tatacoa Desert might be the right alternative where to spend time in a very relaxed manner.
BIKING
Same as you can get around on foot or with a tuk-tuk driver, you can admire the incredible landscape on a bike.
There are several bike rentals in the Tatacoa Desert, and it is only up to you if you decide to go on own or take a guided Tatacoa Bike Tour.
Both alternatives have pros and cons.
Biking in the heat can be pretty challenging, and if you want to get off the main road, we would, this time, probably recommend going with a guide who knows the trails best.
You can also consider renting a bike in case you want to travel between the Red and Gray Desert without hiring a tuk-tuk driver.
VILLAVIEJA
Many travelers usually go directly to the desert, but if you have time to spare, or you have a few minutes before your bus leaves, give the small town Villavieja, a gateway to the Tatacoa Desert, a try.
Like all small towns in Colombia, you will find here a picturesque church and on top of that Paleontology Museum that features fossils found in the desert.
Villavieja is also the last stop before Tatacoa, where you can buy reasonably priced water and do grocery shopping, so it is another reason to spend here a few moments.
HOW TO GET TO THE TATACOA DESERT
Getting to the Tatacoa Desert is relatively easy, but it is good to know, it is quite time-consuming, no matter what is your previous or next destination.
It is also very likely that you will need to switch buses in Neiva, the Huila department's capital city.
We traveled by bus from Manizales, a base for exploring Los Nevados National Park. That's why we had to get from Manizales to Ibague first, and then we jumped on an eight-hour bus to Neiva.
We decided to spend the night in Neiva and then traveled to the desert the next day. You can take the direct bus to Neiva, also from Bogota, Popayan, or San Agustin.
In case you are short on time and not on a budget, consider getting to Neiva from Bogota by air.
If you want to enjoy a trouble-free journey, consider this 2-day Tatacoa Desert tour from Bogota.
Once you are in Neiva, you need to get to the bus terminal (it is a bit sketchy), which is the same for long-distance and short-distance buses.
Buy a bus ticket that goes directly to the Tatacoa Desert - the ride takes about an hour and a half.
If this bus is not available, buy a ticket for the more frequent bus to Villavieja.
It is a town only fifteen minutes' drive from the desert, and here you will have to hike a tuk-tuk or taxi. This option is a bit more expensive.
In case you catch the colectivo that goes directly to the desert, the driver will drop you off on the main road in the middle of the community, from where most of the accommodation options are within walking distance.
To get back from the Tatacoa Desert, you will have to retrace your steps and get back to Neiva. Just ask around when the bus leaves, or hire a tuk-tuk to Villavieja.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED
How many days do you need for the Tatacoa Desert? Well, given the fact that it is quite time-consuming to get there, we recommend at least one night, two days.
This is the absolute minimum that will give you enough time to explore all the best things this destination has to offer, and you will have some time to take a rest.
Honestly, even though we really enjoyed our time here, we do not think that there are that many activities that would keep you entertained for more than two full days.
On the other hand, if you like taking your travels slow and can imagine spending a few afternoons by the pool, feel free to base yourself in the Tatacoa Desert for a while.
TATACOA DESERT SAFETY
Colombia does not have the best reputation when it comes to safety, although we think it's been slowly changing. How is it like in the Tatacoa Desert?
According to our experience, this destination is very safe, at least much safer than large cities such as Medellin or Bogota.
People living in the Tatacoa know how important it is for travelers to feel safe - we even had to ask for a lock to our room as it is normal here to keep everything open.
And this is the 'lock' we got!
Of course, as usual, use your common sense.
We would say that the most dangerous situation in the Tatacoa is when you underestimate the importance of staying hydrated and using protection against the sun.
What else? You can find here spiders, rodents, snakes, or scorpions, so make sure you watch your steps.
When the sun sets, the Tatacoa Desert is completely dark, there is no artificial light along the way, so pack a headtorch in your daypack.
In case you decide to wander around the desert after the dark, do not go too far, or you should have excellent orientation skills.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
HOTELS IN TATACOA DESERT
The Tatacoa Desert offers a few accommodation options; most of them are located close to the Astronomical Observatory, within walking distance to the main road.
It is important to realize that this place is fundamental, and you should not expect miracles.
But this is what we actually liked about Tatacoa, it still felt very authentic, and as we live on the road frugally, we found everything we needed in our hostel.
In case you prefer a higher level of comfort or feel more comfortable in the town, it would be better to stay in the nearby Villavieja.
Budget | Qji Glamping Biohotel - Inexpensive accommodation offers a perfect location just across Astronomical Observatory. The vibe here is very authentic, the same as units. This property has its own restaurant, and also a pool.
Mid-range | Payande - Tatacoa - Nice and clean rooms, perfect location, swimming pool, and staff that will gladly help you with arranging a tour around Tatacoa.
Luxury | La Casa del Angel Hotel - If you want a touch of luxury, you have to stay in the town of Villavieja, where are hotels that offer comfort, but for a very reasonable price. This hotel features a swimming pool, tasty breakfast, and great accessibility to the desert.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT
Tatacoa Desert is an all-year-round destination, so you can easily incorporate it into your Colombia itinerary no matter what your travel dates are.
That's being said, the absolute best time is between December and February and then between July and August, which is the dry season in Colombia.
On the other hand, Tatacoa Desert does not receive that much precipitation, and we would not be worried about visiting it even in the offseason.
Temperatures do not fluctuate much throughout the year, and it is pretty hot, no matter whether it is summer or winter.
Nights are cooler, but not cold.
When it comes to the time of the day, it is definitely wise to enjoy siesta during midday when the sun is at its strongest and be more active either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
WHERE TO EAT
The road in the Tatacoa Desert is lined with a few stalls where you can buy freshly squeezed juice or cold drinks and fruit.
Water is in general expensive, and it is better to arrive with a barrel of water from the city.
You do not have to bring food with you, even if you are a budget traveler.
Almost every hotel or hostel in the Tatacoa Desert has an adjoining restaurant, where you can order something to eat all day long.
They usually serve the traditional Colombian cuisine and prices are reasonable.
WHAT TO PACK
Tatacoa Desert, as the name suggests, is mostly hot and dry, and you should pack accordingly.
It is obvious to have a functional t-shirt and shorts (you'll be sweating a lot), but in case it rains, do not forget layers such as leggings and a t-shirt with long sleeves or even a fleece jacket.
A rain poncho is also a must in case it rains.
Although flip-flops are a must-have in your accommodation, if you want to do a few hikes in the area, make sure you have at least sneakers, if not hiking boots.
A proper daypack is a must for hiking, the same as strong lip balm with sunscreen.
Make sure you have bug repellent , and even though our room had a mosquito net, we brought our own that did not have any holes in it.
One of the most important things is to have a water bottle .
Not only staying hydrated is super-important, but when you buy a five-liter barrel, you will help reduce plastic and be a more responsible traveler.
In case your accommodation has a swimming pool, pack a swimsuit.
Having a headtorch is another essential thing to bring, remember, there is no street light to help you on the way back to your accommodation.
TRAVEL TIPS
As you can see, there's nothing you should worry about before visiting the Tatacoa Desert.
In a nutshell, there are only a few essential things you should know before you go.
Facilities in the Tatacoa Desert are basic. It's part of the experience, don't fight, embrace it.
Buy water in Neiva or Villavieja, especially if you travel on a budget.
You do not need a guide in the desert. It is completely fine to travel on own unless you prefer tours with local guides and want to learn more about the area.
There's no ATM in the desert, cash is the king here, so make sure you have enough.
Flies can be irritating, stock up on bug repellent.
Do not underestimate the sun, stay hydrated.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
