Annapurna Circuit: Trekking from Chame to Manang
Read our practical day by day Annapurna Circuit Trek guide. The next part of our amazing adventure in the Himalayas features how to get from Chame to Manang via Upper Pisang without a guide or tour, a detailed itinerary, where to sleep, trail description, what to pack, and useful hiking tips.
We felt that the first four days of trekking the Annapurna Circuit were about getting used to walking several kilometers per day and carrying backpacks. The scenery along the way from Besisahar to Chame was really incredible, even though the sky was hazy the first couple of days at the lower altitude
However, everything has changed in Chame.
Chame was actually the first destination where we felt that we are in the Himalayas, and we knew the views from now on will be only better.
We also had to get used to the weather. It was still scorching hot during the day, but it was here where we realized that only sunscreen with high SPF wouldn't be enough, and we started wearing leggings or hiking trousers and a functional t-shirt with long sleeves to avoid sunburnt.
Needless to say, we sweat a lot, but it did the trick.
In this travel guide, we would like to share our Annapurna Circuit itinerary with you, actually, the part that led us from Chame to Manang, a famous acclimatization point on the trail.
This part of the circuit is absolutely stunning, but it is also a part where you'll start gaining altitude, so walk slow and steady.
Chame to Manang walk took us two days with an overnight stay in Upper Pisang. In case you feel out of shape or have a headache, consider staying one more night at one place to adjust to the altitude, and drink plenty of water.
Staying hydrated definitely helps.
Tap water in Nepal is not drinkable, so pack your reusable water bottle, refill it at drinking stations, or go even further and purchase this water bottle with integrated filter that kills bacteria straightaway - lowering your plastic consumption is very important, especially in this part of the world.
CHAME TO UPPER PISANG
We were so excited about trekking from Chame to Upper Pisang as the massive mountains were steadily revealing before our eyes, and with each day that had passed, the views of the seven thousand meters high peaks were getting more spectacular.
The village woke up early in the morning.
We could hear a rumble of jeep engines while drivers waited for their passengers to take them to Manang. It is probably important to say that it is possible to take a jeep from Kathmandu up to Manang.
The village has been more and more accessible every year, and travelers who are pressed for time welcome this alternative with open arms.
The good thing is that it does not mean that hikers would be bypassed by cars. We preferred the old-fashioned way as we believe we could not connect with nature through the car's windows that well.
Another reason why you should hike is unhurried acclimatization.
It is pretty common that people who arrive in Manang by car have headaches, and if they rush the Thorong La crossing, they can be sick and have to take a car back to villages at lower altitude in the most serious cases.
Sure, it can happen even when you walk, but the chances that your body will adjust are higher.
We had a slow breakfast in the morning, the weather looked promising, and there was no need to rush.
In Chame, we crossed the river and walked around the Mani Stones and under the stone gate stupa with colorful mandalas painted on the ceiling.
DAY BY DAY ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT ITINERARY
Part 1: Besisahar to Chame
Part 2: Chame to Manang
Part 3: Acclimatization in Manang Area
Part 4: Tilicho Lake Side Trip
Part 5: Tilicho Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Part 6: Crossing the Thorong La Pass
Part 7: Muktinath to Jomsom
The beginning of the trek led us through a thin forest with scattered views of snowy peaks sparkling in the lazy morning on the blue horizon.
It took us approximately two hours to get in Bhratang, a small settlement along the way which surprised us with an extensive apple farm orchard.
We didn't hesitate for a single second and bought a bunch of Fresh Himalayan Golden Delicious in the Bhratang Tea House. Although they didn't look very fresh, they were absolutely delicious.
We refreshed ourselves by eating a couple, and then we continued on the road carved into the mountain high above the river.
The overhanging rock wall gave us an unpleasant feeling, and we hurriedly made it to the other side.
There should have been another path along the riverbank, but locals in Bhratang told us to use the upper trail because of the closure of the former.
They mentioned something about a missing bridge, and as it turned out, a missing bridge is no fun and makes it almost impossible to cross the river.
ACAP will close any damaged and impassable trails, but they immediately mark the bypassing new trail for hikers.
Landslides, rockfalls, floodings, and harsh weather conditions throughout the year affect the trek routes, and it's always a good idea to gather as much information as you can before taking an alternative trail or detour.
The locals proved to be the best source in providing the latest updates about current trek conditions.
After a while, the impressive sight of Paungda Danda alias Mountain to Heaven or the Great Wall of Pisang came to our view.
This majestic rock barrier rises 1500 meters above the river, and its western face is completely smooth.
Locals believe that spirits of the dead must climb the wall.
At this point, the trail crosses the bridge, and we climbed up the hill through the pine forest, which temporarily served us as a shelter against the blazing sun.
Leaving the forest behind, we emerged on the path leading to Dhukur Pokhari.
And somewhere between Chame and Dhukur Pokhari, the haze finally started to disappear, and by the time we reached Upper Pisang, the air was clear.
Meanwhile, in the village, one of the locals recommended that we take the trail on our right to Upper Pisang, but this time, we decided to follow the ACAP markings instead.
It turned out this path was slightly longer and flatter, except for the final steeper climb.
We crossed the meadow with drying lake and then had to climb the final ascent to the beautifully set Upper Pisang Village (3310 m).
You also had an option to stay at the base of the valley in Lower Pisang, which offers a wider variety of guesthouses.
Earthquake in 2015 severely damaged and destroyed several buildings in Upper Pisang, and many villagers left their homes afterward, giving the village an almost haunting atmosphere.
Only the Tibetan Buddhist Temple above the village lights this place with freshly painted white.
Later that day, we also climbed to the ruined fort above Pisang.
From this place, we had incredible views of the open valley and surrounding mountains, especially a sight of Annapurna II at dawn was mesmerizing.
Travel Insurance
If you plan your trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, there are several things to consider.
First of all, the trails are challenging, weather can change rapidly, and you'll be hiking at a high altitude - and unfortunately, mishaps happen. Plus, the highest point on Annapurna Circuit is 5416 meters above sea level.
When it comes to travel insurance, we never travel without it. It is not just us who think that travel insurance is important. The Nepalese government requires having insurance.
For your safety, it should cover sports activities and climb above 5000 meters.
Having a travel insurance number is even compulsory when filling out the form in order to get Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits - TIMS and ACAP.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
UPPER PISANG TO MANANG VIA BRAGA
Before we left the village the next day, we didn't forget to visit a small building with a several hundred years old, sizable prayer wheel, and then walked around the long Mani Wall and finally left the village behind.
From Upper Pisang, you have two options on how to travel to Manang.
The lower trail is faster and less demanding than the higher route, which is the opposite; it's harder and more challenging but also more scenic and spectacular.
We highly recommend you to take the upper trail as it's not only more rewarding, it will also help you with the acclimation.
The trail had a countless number of switchbacks, and the climb was quite difficult. As the morning sun was getting stronger, we didn't rush and rested regularly.
Over 400 dreading meters ascend finished in Ghyaru village where we sat on the bench in front of the stupa while eating delicious freshly baked apple pies we had bought from an older Nepali woman.
She allowed us to take a photo of her, and later we could admire outstanding views all around us.
If you want to take a photo of locals, the rule of thumb is always to ask them first.
During our time on the road, we found out that it is much better to take portrait photos with a compact mirrorless camera - people are more relaxed than when you point at them a bulky one.
The path from Ghyaru to Ngawal offers first glimpses of Annapurna III, 7555 meters high giant in the Annapurna Range.
We walked through the old village of Ngawal, where we had a quick lunch, which consisted of fried rice with eggs and black tea. Not long after we finished our meals, we set off again on our way.
The mountains around seemed to us as almost someone had painted them, and when we got to the meadow with grazing horses and Mount Chulu East peeking out behind hills, we just sat there for a while in a complete silence.
Later we crossed the pasture; the path led slowly back down and took us to abandoned looking Julu village, which stands in the middle of wetlands.
A dirt path led us to Braga around a hidden checkpoint, a worn-down wooden and metal shack, which we would have missed if it wasn't for a fellow hiker who told us that this is a place where we should register.
So we had to find Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits once again.
Then we rejoined the main road again to Manang and carried on.
When you reach Braga, you can continue on the way for another 25 minutes to Manang, but we saw dark clouds coming in our direction from there and called it a day.
We found this small village a great place to stay as it was a good starting point for acclimatization trips and well-deserved rest. Also, Braga is less touristy than Manang, which suits our travel style the best, but feel free to continue.
Still, the restaurant was pretty crowded in the evening, and we were lucky we found a room available in the second guesthouse along the way; the first was already full.
If you plan on hiking the Annapurna Circuit in the main season, you should think about these practical things, and as it is almost impossible to make a reservation in advance, it pays off to start every day early.
First off, you'll get a bed, and secondly, you'll avoid the midday heat.
After a long day walk, we treated ourselves to pastries from the in-house bakery and locally produced buckthorn juice.
Manang area is important for acclimatization. Luckily, Manang offers couple of day trips, but more about it in the next post.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
