Annapurna Circuit: Trekking from Besisahar to Chame
In Besisahar, Nepal, you will find the trailhead for the Annapurna Circuit Trek. This day by day guide includes tips on how to get from Kathmandu to Besisahar by bus, directions, Besisahar to Chame itinerary, where to sleep, trail description, what to pack, and useful hiking tips.
Besisahar is the traditional starting point for one of the most famous multi-day treks in Nepal, Annapurna Circuit. There's not much to do in the village itself, but we feel it is an absolutely essential stop on every ACT itinerary.
Besisahar was a place, where we found, together with the majority of the hikers, the Annapurna Circuit trailhead. But for a few others, who decided to walk the route clockwise, it was the end of their adventure.
This is the reason why the atmosphere in Besisahar is very uplifted. You can feel the excitement in the air.
And hadn't it been for the necessary paperwork, we believe we could see travelers jumping off the bus from Kathmandu even before it stops, lacing up the hiking boots, and running into the mountains. We were in the same boat.
Some of the fellow hikers decided to spend the night in Besisahar; some needed more time to find guides or porters. But we could not wait to see the rural part of Nepal and get closer to the Himalayas, where you can find the highest mountains in the world.
Nevertheless, getting to Besisahar from Kathmandu was only a small step on this trip.
In this blog post, we would like to share tips on how to travel from Nepal's capital to Besisahar, and we will also share the travel itinerary on the stretch of the route that leads from Besisahar to Chame.
This whole way took us four days, so feel free to get inspired and start planning your day by day Annapurna Circuit itinerary. We share tips on where to sleep and eat, what to pack, directions, and what to see along the hike.
HOW TO GET FROM KATHMANDU TO BESISAHAR BY BUS
Getting from Kathmandu to Besisahar is quite time-consuming, so start early in the morning. There are several ways how to get to Annapurna Circuit's trailhead.
As with everything in Kathmandu, it is a bit confusing, as it seems there is not only one official spot from where you can take the bus.
We decided to catch the bus from Gongabu Bus Park.
It is one of the biggest bus stations in Kathmandu, where you can take a bus to literally every destination in Nepal. As we did not know the exact timetable, we decided to arrive early, around 7 AM.
As we did not want to take a taxi to save some money and stretch our legs, we had to walk 2.5 kilometers from Thamel, but feel free to hail a cab to save energy.
We were lucky enough as the bus to Besisahar was leaving in about 30 minutes. The ride on a small minivan was quite tiring, and we had one of those special seats in the back with a speaker above our heads.
Besisahar is only about 200 kilometers from Kathmandu, but because of the traffic, difficult terrain, and unpaved roads, the ride can take anything between six and eight hours.
Fortunately, the driver stopped quite often, and we could even buy food at one of the stalls along the way - I guess this is where our addiction to Nepalese cuisine had started. We paid 600 rupees for the ticket.
Another option where to catch the bus is in front of BG Mall on Ring Road. As it is very close to Gongabu Bus Park, literally behind the corner, we think you would be waiting here for the same bus we took from the official bus station.
One of the most popular alternatives is to buy a ticket in advance for a tourist shuttle that will pick you up in the Thamel district. Seats are a bit more expensive, around 900 rupees, but it saves you the hassle.
WHERE TO STAY IN KATHMANDU
We've already mentioned that we stayed in Thamel district - it is actually a place where most travelers spend the night.
Thamel is full of scents, cool restaurants and shops, and most importantly, close to some of the must-visit places in Kathmandu.
It is also good to know that you can easily get ready in Thamel for Annapurna Circuit - you can take a rest here before or after the trek and stock up. Although the place is well-known among backpackers, you'll find here even more upscale hotels.
We've handpicked the three best hotels in Kathmandu for every type of traveler.
Budget | Hotel Dali Nepal - If you look for cheap accommodation, this hostel might be exactly what you want. Rooms are clean, and the service for the price is perfect.
Mid-range | Kathmandu Grand Hotel - Great value for money, perfect location, clean rooms, and tasty buffet breakfast is worth it.
Luxury | Baber Mahal Vilas - This hotel is a real luxury in the very heart of Kathmandu. If you want to disconnect from the outside busy streets, check out the rooms' photos - they look stunning.
WHAT TO DO IN BESISAHAR
Once you get off the bus in Besisahar, you have two options. Either start Annapurna Circuit or spend one night in Besisahar and take a rest.
No matter which option you choose, there's one more thing every traveler must do - register at the checkpoint.
You should have already obtained your Annapurna Circuit trek permits in Kathmandu, and although there are more checkpoints on the trail, this one is one of the important ones because all hikers must either sign in or sign off here.
We waited in a queue for a stamp, but it did not take long, and we could set off.
DAY BY DAY ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT ITINERARY
Part 1: Besisahar to Chame
Part 2: Chame to Manang
Part 3: Acclimatization in Manang Area
Part 4: Tilicho Lake Side Trip
Part 5: Tilicho Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Part 6: Crossing the Thorong La Pass
Part 7: Muktinath to Jomsom
BESISAHAR TO BHULBHULE
After so many uncomfortable hours spent on the dusty and bumpy road, we just wanted to stretch our legs, and as we departed early from Kathmandu, there was still time to cover some ground before it gets dark.
We know you can also start Annapurna Circuit in Pokhara, but there's a reason why the direction we followed is more popular. If you start in Besisahar, you will steadily climb up and observe the changes in flora, fauna, and local people's everyday lives.
From the first checkpoint in Besisahar, we walked through the village to the suspension bridge across Marsyangdi River, then climbed up the narrow path around rice paddies and a few scattered houses.
Then the path led us back down to the riverbank, and it did not take long, and we reached a new water power plant.
We were able to walk through the under-construction complex, and at the end, we crossed the river again and continued to Bhulbhule. It is possible that once the complex is finished, there will be opened a new designated path around the water plant.
We decided to spend a night in Bhulbhule.
There were three lodges situated on the true right bank of Margsyandi River, so we checked out all of them and opted for the one that seemed to us least occupied. We immediately ordered our first Dal Bhat for dinner as we were starving.
On the other side of the river is a bigger guesthouse, which might be a good option if you're looking for a company. But we just needed a good uninterrupted sleep, and as it turned out, this place was perfect as we were the only guests staying there that evening.
It was our first experience with sleeping on the Annapurna Circuit, and it turned out to be great. Teahouses are basic and simple.
And it is an unspoken rule that you should at your accommodation also have dinner and breakfast. Currently, most of the hotels run on a first-come-first-served basis, as it is impossible to make a reservation online.
At the start of the trek, you will meet kids along the way, asking you for money or candy.
Although it feels hard, try to resist, and don't give them any (it is also advice from the Nepali government) because they could get used to it and start begging regularly instead of going to school.
BHULBHULE TO JAGAT
The next day we started early, and from Bhulbhule, we walked upstream around the river on the wide dusty road. Fortunately, this road was traffic-free.
At the end of this road, we were a bit confused about which direction to take because of the construction, but do not turn anywhere, walk straight all the time.
In general, the Annapurna Circuit is well-signposted, but we recommend to have a fully charged mobile phone with a very useful offline app Maps.me.
The path climbed through rice fields to Bahudanda and offered us open views of green rice terraces. To reach Bahudanda, we had to ascend steep stairs and were ashamed by porters who outran us with almost three times heavier backpacks.
There is a checkpoint in this village, where you should register, and you can also buy snacks here.
There is a stone gate behind the settlement, and you can see escarpment on the other side of the valley where the road carves in the mountain.
It was frightening to watch cars driving on it.
Another bridge took us around a waterfall, and the rest of the walk continued above the river; and after the last Margsyandi River crossing and climb to the steep hill, we appeared in Jagat village.
We slept in the guest houses in Jagat with the advertised hot shower and Wi-Fi, but the owner failed to mention before checking us in the room that she had technical issues with both today.
We didn't need the internet connection, though, and it was still hot outside, so cold water worked just fine for today. Moreover, the place was clean, quiet, and we had it just for ourselves.
Travel Insurance
If you plan your trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, there are several things to consider.
First of all, the trails are challenging, weather can change rapidly, and you'll be hiking at a high altitude - and unfortunately, mishaps happen. Plus, the highest point on Annapurna Circuit is 5416 meters above sea level.
When it comes to travel insurance, we never travel without it. It is not just us who think that travel insurance is important. The Nepalese government requires having insurance.
For your safety, it should cover sports activities and climb above 5000 meters.
Having a travel insurance number is even compulsory when filling out the form in order to get Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits - TIMS and ACAP.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
JAGAT TO BAGARCHAP VIA ODAR
After a good night's sleep, it was time to start the third day on our Annapurna Circuit itinerary.
At the end of Jagat village, we followed an arrow sign and walked the stairs down only to climb up the steep forest trail on our left in the next second.
When we reached the top of the ascend, we could see a thundering waterfall on the valley's opposite side.
We continued, and all of a sudden, we emerged on the football playground (we wouldn't want to be the guy who kicks the ball over the fence) and right after we crossed it, we arrived at Chamje, a small village built under towering cliffs.
From this point, the trail slowly climbed up, and we could watch the river flowing down the valley. We crossed the river, and another steep hill took us to the gate marking the beginning of Manang District.
Sleepy village Tal lies near river basin in 1700 meters above sea level, and right behind Tal is a swinging bridge, which led us to the other side of the river and also to 9 km distant Karte village.
You can choose to cross the river again and walk through Karte, but we carried on along the left bank and bypassed this village.
Instead of heading directly to Bagarchap, which was our last stop that day, we decided to take a side trip to a settlement called Odar.
Many steps lead to Odar (thanks to this detour, you will gain extra 200 meters of elevation), but once we arrived, it felt like we traveled at least a hundred years back in time. The atmosphere in the village was almost ancient.
Although we were thinking of spending a night here at first, we decided to continue to Bagarchap instead as we had originally planned, as it was difficult to communicate with locals about accommodation and food.
Even though they seemed friendly, we were not sure how they feel about strangers. We walked through the village, took a few photos of the landscape and basic houses, and found the trail that led us to Bagarchap.
The landscape in Bagarchap changes from the lush green hilly scenery to the real mountain countryside, and we caught the first glimpse of snow-capped mountains in the distance.
We emerged at the end of the village and found a place to stay in the first lodge we walked in. It was not our destiny to have a hot shower again, but we asked for a bucket, which we got a few minutes later, and everything was just fine.
Then we ordered nourishing Dal Bhat for dinner and spent the rest of the evening in the cozy restaurant with other hikers, this time clothed in our down jackets as evenings were getting colder.
BAGARCHAP TO CHAME
The next morning we woke up early and had oatmeal with freshly cut apples for breakfast.
From Bagarchap, the path leads to Danaque, where we refilled our reusable water bottles at the safe drinking water station, and on the way to Timang, we left the main road and climbed up the hill.
We could see Manaslu Range from the trail all the way to Timang village, herds of sheep walked around us, and we felt like in one of those documentary movies about rural life in Nepal (as naive as it sounds).
We also saw Annapurna II (7937 m) for the first time just before we reached Chame village.
Although the way from Bagarchap to Chame was considerably easy, and we hiked at a leisure pace, we were exposed to the harsh Himalayan sun all day.
But then, a wasp maliciously stung Martin's finger, we took a short break, and suddenly we realized, that it was another long day. And we were exhausted.
After a long walk, we felt relieved and gleeful at the same time when we had reached today's destination early, Chame.
We took a short nap after late lunch and then leisurely strolled around the village, watched locals play volleyball game (the view from the stands features Manaslu Range).
And then went to take a dip in the hot spring (concrete open cubicle where locals bathe themselves and wash their clothes, something between a public spa, bathroom, and laundry).
Chame was a perfect place where we could rest the fourth day of hiking the Annapurna Circuit, and the wonderful scenery around got us excited for what was about to come next.
Finally, we were ready to hike from Chame to Manang.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
