A Complete Guide to Carretera Austral in Chile
Our comprehensive Carretera Austral guide for first-time visitors will help you plan your trip better. Including tips on when to go, what to do and see, how much things cost, how to get around, how to find accommodation, what to pack, and much more. Here you will find everything you should know before traveling and road-tripping Carretera Austral in Chilean Patagonia.
Is Carretera Austral the best scenic drive in the world? In our opinion, it's definitely somewhere at the top of the list.
Either way, Carretera Austral is often considered Patagonia's best road trip.
Chilean Patagonia, a wild, remote and rugged place in the southwestern part of the South American continent, had been known only to real adventure seekers, hikers, and outdoor enthusiasts for a long time.
Things have changed in this region, and this area is more accessible than ever.
Nowadays, the region awaits with open arms all types of travelers, even those who until recently rather admired nature from a safe distance.
And there is no better place to start exploring Chilean Patagonia than on the Carretera Austral.
It is hard to resist the incredible Patagonian landscape consisting of fjords, rainforests, snow-capped mountains, glaciers, crystal clear lakes, and turbulent rivers.
And Carretera Austral is one of those places where you can experience it all.
The road connects the southern, remote, and difficult-to-access places with the rest of Chile, allowing visitors to see nature that's not unlike anywhere else in the world.
The scenery along the road is incredibly diverse and beautiful, and no pictures will do this place justice.
Simply put, road-tripping Carretera Austral will allow you to travel through one of the world's most awe-inspiring and jaw-dropping places on planet Earth, even if you have only a couple of weeks to see it all.
We traveled the entire stretch of Carretera Austral, and it was one of the best adventures on our year-long trip around South America.
We also know that planning the Carretera Austral trip might be a daunting task.
Therefore, we created this blog post which includes all the essential information you need to know about Carretera Austral before you go.
Why Visit Carretera Austral
Carretera Austral is an epic scenic road that will show you some of the most beautiful places in Chilean Patagonia.
You'll see impressive fjords, turquoise lakes, active and dormant volcanoes, snow-capped mountains, majestic glaciers, dense rainforests, and blooming meadows.
In a nutshell, the scenery you're going to travel through is just breathtaking, and nothing can prepare you for this experience.
Chilean Patagonia offers one of the world's most remote yet accessible travel experiences and is a paradise for everyone who enjoys outdoor activities in their purest form.
It is a place where nature stands above everything, time flies at a different, much slower pace, and nothing is a problem here.
A local proverb says that those who are in a hurry don't go far, and we think it truly fits.
History and Facts
Before we dive deeper into practical tips that will help you plan your trip better, we feel a need to introduce Carretera Austral first.
Carretera Austral is 1247 kilometers long and stretches from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins.
This area is home to only 100.000 people, and about half of them live in Coyhaique, the capital city of the Aysen region.
The history of the road goes back to 1976 when Augusto Pinochet commenced construction of this road.
For obvious reasons, he ordered to connect remote villages and communities in the Southern Part of Chile with the rest of the country.
The presence of a road became essential as back in the 1980s, some parts of southern Chile were still accessible only by boat or plane.
Due to remote locations and the harsh winter weather conditions, people often remained without the possibility to move around or without food supply for days.
Of course, this can happen even today. Thanks to the road, the risk is lower, and the region is more accessible than ever.
Also, before 1976 when traveling by land, a big part of southern Chile had been accessible only via Argentina.
The situation became a problem in the 1970s when Chile and Argentina had territorial disputes (which almost led to war), and Chile needed to strengthen its presence in those remote areas.
Constructing Carretera Austral, also known as Southern Road, Ruta 7, or Chile's Road 7, was not an easy task because of the fjords, dense forests, glaciers, and mountains standing in the way.
It is also one of the reasons why a big part of the road has not yet been paved, even after all those years after the construction started.
Currently, the paved parts of the road end in the area around Villa Cerro Castillo.
Road Conditions
We hadn't done much research on the actual Carretera Austral road condition before our trip and were quite surprised at how the road looked like in reality.
Large parts of the road were still unpaved, some stretches were winding and quite narrow, and generally, driving on Carretera Austral required patience.
To illustrate the current state of the Carretera Austral, here are a few examples we've seen along the way.
At the time of our trip, the first fourteen kilometers on the route from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Rio Tranquilo were under construction.
The next 100 kilometers was an unsealed road. The following section to Cochrane, which stretches around beautiful Lake Carrera General, was completely unsealed.
The unpaved road generally continues to the end of Carretera Austral and the last settlement along the way, Villa O'Higgins.
As the construction process is still ongoing, the driving experience should improve over the years.
Be prepared that there is also a chance you will experience some delays along the way.
Patagonian weather is so harsh that there is no other time to repair the road than during summer when the conditions are perfect, or the snow is gone.
Still, even though this is no Ring Road or Ring of Kerry, the road didn't look dangerous, at least compared to some mountain roads we've seen in Peru or Colombia.
Generally, you don't need a 4WD car for the Carretera Austral unless you plan to explore obscure side roads in the mountains.
While locals usually drive pick-ups and SUVs, we've seen plenty of regular-sized sedans and even small compact cars.
Therefore, deciding which car to rent for Carretera Austral is more about driving comfort than actual terrain capabilities.
If you are planning to bike Carretera Austral, be prepared that it will take longer to complete this route due to the road conditions described above.
Also, keep in mind that the ubiquitous dust and wind will make the ride a bit harder.
Accommodation
When it comes to accommodation on Carretera Austral, you have three options: camping in a tent, sleeping in a campervan, and staying in hotels.
Camping
Camping is a great way to save money and explore Carretera Austral on a budget, especially when combined with hitchhiking.
Remember that you should use designated campsites, so this option is not free.
Luckily, there are plenty of campgrounds along the way.
You can find campsites in every village, outside the settlements, and even within national parks such as Queulat or Pumalin.
In the village, it is unlikely to find a full campground without a spot available even in the high season, which makes this option even more attractive.
It will be a different story in the national parks, though. The nights are often cold, so you should bring a warm sleeping bag.
Make sure you have a good waterproof tent as it rains a lot in Chilean Patagonia unless you want to turn your once-in-a-lifetime adventure into an uncomfortable and damp experience.
Campervan
Sleeping in a camper van is very similar to tent camping, though it is slightly warmer, drier, and more windproof.
Still, it's not as comfortable as staying in a hotel, so make sure you know what you're getting into before you go.
We met a couple who did not expect the Patagonian summer to be that cold and windy.
Even though they paid about $120 per day for a campervan, they ended up staying in hostels because it was more comfortable.
Hotels
The last accommodation option when it comes to Carretera Austral is to stay in hotels, hostels, or homestays known as hospedajes.
At first, when we saw accommodation prices online, we freaked out a bit.
Fortunately, later we found out that many local hospedajes were not bookable in advance. It turned out to be easy to find relatively affordable accommodation just by asking around.
With the exception of Coyhaique, the settlements along Carretera Austral are small.
Therefore, you don't need to worry that you will spend a lot of time walking around the town while looking for accommodation.
Still, our advice is to reserve a hostel or hotel in advance to avoid disappointment in case all cheap options are fully booked.
Because we were traveling on a budget across South America, we did not expect luxury or lavish hotel amenities.
Luckily, most homestays on Carretera Austral we stayed in were very basic but cozy, warm, and clean.
On top of that, they had hot water, a shared kitchen, and wifi, which was everything we needed.
The wifi quality was often poor but understandable when considering the area's remoteness.
Best Places to Stay on Carretera Austral
Carretera Austral is a popular tourist destination in Chilean Patagonia, and hotels can fill up quickly during the peak season.
Despite its popularity, there are still not many accommodations you can reserve in advance. At least in the smaller towns and tiny villages that you will have a chance to visit along the way.
Another issue is that the hotels you can book online often have only limited capacity making the booking part even harder.
The only exception is Coyhaique, which has accommodation for all types of travelers.
It's also a great place to base yourself and explore some national parks from there in case you won't find accommodation elsewhere.
Nonetheless, we decided to make a list of our favorite places and best hotels on Carretera Austral.
Chaiten | Posada de Expediciones Kahuel - One of the most popular places in Chaiten is located in a secluded area only a few kilometers from the town. Rooms are cozy and clean, and breakfast is included. You can also walk to the private beach in your free time.
Puyuhuapi | Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa - If you want to find tranquil accommodation in a remote location, there is no better option than Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa. The lodge features charming rooms, an on-site restaurant, a swimming pool, a spa, and outdoor natural hot springs.
Coyhaique | Huellas y Senderos Hotel - One of the top hotels in Coyhaique, this modern and centrally located accommodation has everything you need. It offers quiet rooms, comfortable beds, helpful staff, and a complimentary breakfast.
Puerto Rio Tranquilo | Cabanas Don Hugo - Don Hugo is one of the most popular accommodations in Puerto Tranquilo. These classic cabanas offer cozy rooms, excellent location, friendly staff, and heating.
Puerto Guadal | Terra Luna Lodge - Located about an hour's drive south of Puerto Rio Tranquilo, Terra Luna Lodge offers charming bungalows with panoramic lake views, an outdoor swimming pool, spa, free wifi, and on-site parking. The lodge also offers helicopter flights, hiking, jet boats, mountaineering, and horseback riding tours.
Villa Cerro Castillo | Cabanas Cerro Castillo - One of the best and most popular accommodations in Villa Cerro Castillo, this lovely bed and breakfast offers great value for the price. It's located in a quiet area outside the village on the access road to the Cerro Castillo trailhead. Rooms are simple, rustic, and offer stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
Cochrane | Kalfu Patagonia - This aparthotel, run by a friendly host, is among the best accommodations in Cochrane. The rooms are warm, clean, and spacious. Free parking and wifi are included.
Villa O'Higgins | Rumbo Sur Hotel - This hotel is by far the most comfortable and luxurious option in Villa O'Higgins. The rooms are bright and quiet, and they come with private bathrooms. The staff is helpful and will help arrange tours in case you want to explore this area more thoroughly.
Getting Around Carretera Austral
Figuring out how to get around Carretera Austral is not easy. Each option has its pros and cons, and we will guide you through all of them.
In general, you have several options to choose from, hitchhiking, public transport, plane, bike, tours, and car rental.
Here is an overview of the best ways to travel around Carretera Austral, based on your budget, itinerary, and priorities.
Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is the cheapest option to explore Carretera Austral, but it's not for everyone. It has several drawbacks but also has a major advantage for people without a car.
For starters, hitchhiking is the least reliable option to travel from one point to another.
Therefore we believe hitching makes sense when you travel long term or have some super flexible itinerary.
Overall hitchhiking in Patagonia is safe and local people are used to picking up hitchhikers.
Still, if you're not comfortable doing it, you should look for other means of transportation.
In the worst-case scenario, you might end up being stuck in one place for the whole day, only to start all over the next morning.
Also, keep in mind that in some places, you will not be the only person looking for a ride.
So, are there any pros of hitchhiking on Carretera Austral, except that it's free?
If you're traveling by public transport, it's quite often the only way to get to the national parks that are often located outside the towns.
There are usually no shuttle buses that would take you from a village to the trailhead, so you're mostly left only with this option.
We opted for a combination of hitchhiking for shorter distances and public transport when traveling between towns.
Public Transport
Despite the fact that Carretera Austral is a remote area, the public transport system is somewhat good.
Once again, don't forget Chilean Patagonia is not easily accessible, so lower your expectations in this regard.
We used public transport most of the time when traveling along Carretera Austral and never had any major issue with this means of transportation.
All things considered, the buses on Carretera Austral are fairly reliable, safe, and affordable.
Another essential thing you should know is that some buses between villages don't go daily, so it's better to check the up-to-date schedule directly at the bus terminal upon arrival.
Knowing the current bus schedules is key to the success of your trip, as they often change.
Also, knowing when the next bus comes and leaves helps you to plan your activities better. Whenever possible, it is also better to reserve your seat straight away.
It can also happen that the bus is full, especially in the peak season, and because at some points buses go only two times or three times a week, locals have priority over tourists.
Buses usually run relatively frequently between December and March, which is the main tourist season in Chilean Patagonia.
In the off-season, public transport operates more sporadically, so plan accordingly.
The first thing we noticed was that buses along Carretera Austral were relatively expensive.
Using public transport is still a great way to cut down your expenses, but it's not definitely as cheap as you might expect.
Prices for regular buses on Carretera Austral are relatively high, between 10.000 CLP and 15.000 CLP for a three-hour ride.
However, the government subsidizes some routes along the road to encourage locals to use public transport, and the lower prices are also valid for international travelers.
For example, we paid 10.000 CLP per person for a 2.5-hour ride from Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Cochrane and CLP 7.000 CLP per person for a 7-hour ride from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins.
As you can clearly see, the difference between prices can be pretty big.
The main issue with this option is that you will also need to hitchhike from time to time as the public transport doesn't connect the towns with national parks.
The quality of public transport varies, and you can expect anything from small vans without leg room to big and comfortable long-distance buses with heating and reclining seats.
All things considered, getting around Carretera Austral by bus is not difficult, but it has some limitations.
Rental Car
The most efficient way to get around the Carretera Austral is by car, even though this option has one big drawback.
However, there is no better option if you're short on time, especially for such a long-distance trip.
A car gives you the freedom to stop whenever and wherever you want and explore Carretera Austral at your own pace.
You don't have to be dependent on bus schedules or hitchhiking luck. It also makes the process of getting to the national parks and nature reserves incredibly easy.
Simply put, a rental car is the most convenient but also expensive option to explore Chilean Patagonia.
The main downside is the fact that you can't return your car at Villa O'Higgins, the end of Carretera Austral.
Therefore, you must either drive the same way back to Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas.
Some companies have pick-up and drop-off locations on Carretera Austral in larger towns such as Coyhaique, but this solution is not perfect either due to its central location.
Or you could cross borders to Argentina and then back to Chile to hike in Torres del Paine, but expect to pay a steep one-way fee, more expensive insurance, and a fee for travel documents allowing you to drive in Argentina.
However, finding a company that will allow you to travel between Chile and Argentina is not as straightforward as you would expect.
Here you will find the best deals on rental cars in Patagonia.
Bike
Biking Carretera Austral must be an unforgettable experience, but it's also not for everyone.
The dusty gravel roads, together with the winds and plenty of rain, will require a lot of effort and determination from your side.
The main advantage is not only the activity itself but also the fact that you can continue from Villa O'Higgins to Argentina without the need to retrace your steps back to Chile Chico.
Plane
It's good to know that there is an airport in Puerto Montt (El Tepual Airport) and Coyhaique (Balmaceda Airport).
However, we believe that land travel is far more rewarding than flying in this region.
There is also a small airport in Villa O'Higgins, but it's often not used for commercial flights.
Tours
Lastly, you can take a multi-day Carretera Austral tour that will allow you to explore some of the finest places along this scenic route.
While the tours are often not the cheapest option to see new destinations, they are a good alternative for people who don't want to arrange transportation on their own.
This popular Carretera Austral and Patagonia Tour starts in Puerto Montt, ends in Puerto Natales, and includes some of the finest places in Chilean Patagonia.
Ferry
When road tripping a Carretera Austral, using a ferry at some point is inevitable. There is no way around it.
Starting in Puerto Montt, you have two options to get to Chaiten. Regardless of your decision, both of them include a ferry ride.
A direct ferry takes about 11 hours but doesn't go daily, so you must plan ahead. Alternatively, you can drive between both towns by car, but this option includes multiple ferry rides.
You can read more about the transport options in our article about Pumalin National Park near Chaiten.
In case you plan on getting to the southernmost village on Carretera Austral, Villa O'Higgins, you need to take another ferry that operates between Puerto Yungay and Rio Bravo.
The ferry ride takes 50 minutes, it's free and in the summer season goes three times a day in each direction.
If you don't want to drive to the shining star of Chilean Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, via Argentina, you need to take another ferry.
In this case, take a 41-hour ferry from Tortel to Puerto Natales. Obviously, you will have plenty of time to admire the surrounding landscape.
Lastly, you can take a ferry from Villa O'Higgins on the way to Argentina, but more about this later.
ATMs, Credit Cards, and Money Exchange
Remember that cash is still the king on Carretera Austral.
You can find ATM right at the beginning in Puerto Montt and Hornopiren, then in Chaiten, later in the biggest city on the road, Coyhaique, and almost at the end in Cochrane.
In some places, it is possible to pay with a credit card, especially in better-looking hotels and restaurants.
Also, some bigger grocery stores, such as Unimarc in Coyhaique, accept credit cards. Just make sure what are your bank fees so you won't lose money.
And always have some cash with you, as you never know when you will need it.
You can also exchange money in the towns mentioned above but be prepared that the rates are not very good.
To our surprise, it was also easier to change dollars or euros to Chilean Pesos than to get Argentinian pesos.
We tried to get Argentinian pesos in Coyhaique before entering Argentina, but the exchange rate was so poor that we gave up.
The people working at the money exchange offices are well aware that you don't have any other option, and they're not afraid to take advantage of it.
Lastly, don't rely much on your dollars, as it is not a rule that the property will accept it because of the unfavorable exchange rates.
Travel Distances
Carretera Austral is 1247 kilometers long scenic road that starts in Puerto Montt and ends in Villa O'Higgins.
As the road is more than 1000 kilometers long and stretches through spectacular and remote areas of Chilean Patagonia, it takes time to reach the end.
A significant part of the road is still unpaved, so do not think you'll be able to travel the Carretera Austral in two days.
Honestly, we don't even see a single reason why you would want to rush through this incredible place.
You will find tiny settlements, several villages, and even a few small towns along the way. On Carretera Austral, there will be a small village or town roughly every 50 to 150 kilometers.
Remember that the national parks are usually located between 10 to 50 kilometers from the town.
Which Direction Should You Drive Carretera Austral
As mentioned above, Carretera Austral is a scenic road that runs from Puerto Montt in the north and ends in Villa O'Higgins in the south.
Somewhere in between lies Coyhaique, which divides the route into northern and southern parts.
Either direction works, so it depends on your Patagonia itinerary.
If you plan on doing Carretera Austral and staying in Chile the whole time, your starting point will most likely be the northern tip of the road, a port town with a characteristic name, Puerto Montt.
From there, you will head down south to Coyhaique and eventually all the way down to Villa O'Higgins.
As we traveled across South America from north to south, we also started our journey in Puerto Montt.
We met several people traveling in the opposite direction, but all of them arrived in Chile from Argentina.
Border Crossings Between Chile and Argentina
As Carretera Austral basically copies the border between Chile and Argentina, there are also a few border crossings nearby.
Obviously, the border crossings are not directly on Carretera Austral, so you always need to leave it in order to reach Argentina.
Still, the driving distances, in this case, are very short.
Futaleufu is about 80 kilometers east of Carretera Austral, Balmaceda is about 20 kilometers from the road, and Chile Chico is 120 kilometers from the turn-off.
Due to its location, border crossing in Chile Chico is often regarded as the most popular one in case you want to travel to El Chalten, El Calafate, Torres del Paine, or Ushuaia.
Futaleufu is popular among travelers heading north to San Carlos de Bariloche, a gateway to Argentinian's Lake District.
Where to Cross Borders From Carretera Austral to Argentina
As mentioned above, you have several options for crossing the borders between these countries.
Be prepared that crossing the borders between Chile and Argentina by car is a complicated process, and most rental companies won't even allow it.
Unless you really know what you're doing, it's better to take a bus instead.
Chile Chico
The most common and popular way among travelers heading to Argentina is crossing the border at Chile Chico.
The Chile Chico turn-off is 'only' 300 kilometers from Villa O'Higgins, so you don't miss out on that much when not driving to the very end.
You need to take a bus from Cochrane or Coyhaique to Chile Chico, and from here, take a shuttle bus to the border.
In Argentina, you can walk or take another shuttle bus to Los Antiguos.
Once you arrive in Argentina, you can finally book a bus ticket with Marga Taqsa to El Chalten.
Futaleufu
Other places where you can cross the border are Futaleufu to Trevelin (and Esquel) or Balmaceda near Coyhaique.
However, Futaleufu is almost at the beginning of Carretera Austral (if you start in the north).
Therefore, you might use it when traveling in the opposite direction.
Villa O'Higgins
For those traveling on foot or by bike, there is another even more spectacular option to get to Argentina from Carretera Austral.
Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten is a long but completely astonishing day and the best border crossings we've ever done.
You can take a bus from Villa O'Higgins to a port Puerto Bahamondez where you'll take a three-hour ferry to Candelario Mancilla.
From this point, you must walk 22 kilometers to the Argentinian border on Lake Desierto's shore.
Hikers can arrange transport by car for the first 15 kilometers, and bikers must dismount the bike for the last 5 kilometers.
Here you must take another ferry which will take you across the lake in about 50 minutes.
Alternatively, you can walk around the lake, but you must have a tent with you as this hike is not doable in one day.
After you reach the shore, hop on a bus that will finally take you to El Chalten.
When to Go
One of the most burning questions you need to figure you before you go is when to visit Carretera Austral.
Don't forget that Chilean Patagonia lies in the Southern Hemisphere, and the seasons are the opposite of those in the Northern Hemisphere.
This means that summers in this region are from December to March, while winters start in June and end in September.
For more information on this topic, don't forget to check out our blog post on when to visit Patagonia.
Summer
Hands down, the best time to visit Carretera Austral is during the summer, usually from December to March.
The weather is usually the most favorable, with plenty of sunny days and less rainfall, public transport runs relatively frequently, and all accommodations along the way are open.
The road conditions should be at their best, so even driving should not be that challenging.
The biggest downside of this period is higher prices because and more tourists everywhere.
We visited Carretera Austral from late December to early January and couldn't wish for better weather given the circumstances.
Although we cannot complain about the weather, we must say that we didn't expect these things.
The north section of the Carretera Austral was warmer than we expected but windy, rainy, and humid.
The southern part surprised us with fairly low temperatures during the day, and it got even colder during the night.
Moreover, a strong and cold wind usually picked up in the afternoon, making everything harder.
Spring and Autumn
All budget travelers should consider visiting Carretera Austral in spring or autumn, known as the shoulder season.
The period that lasts from October to November and from March to April is perfect for visitors who don't mind unpredictable weather conditions and limited services.
The main advantage is fewer crowds and a more relaxed atmosphere.
Also, autumn brings more colors into the palette.
The contrasts between turquoise lakes, blue-white glaciers, and red-colored tree leaves are worth seeing.
Winter
Winter (June to August) is the most challenging time to visit Chilean Patagonia, but if you're an outdoor enthusiast with some experience, this might be a great adventure for you.
Fewer crowds, low prices, and a landscape covered with snow and ice will allow you to see Patagonia from a different perspective.
Wifi
The internet connection on Carretera Austral varies from place to place. Sometimes wifi signal was so poor or unstable that it was impossible to use.
And sometimes we were surprised how fast and reliable the wifi was, especially considering our remote location.
For example, I was able to back up all my photos from two previous months to the cloud storage in Puyuhuapi.
On the other hand, I couldn't even check my emails or read any news in Villa Cerro Castillo.
But to my surprise, the internet speed was, most of the time, better than I expected.
Moreover, each year the situation improves in this regard, so your experience should be better than ours.
A general rule of thumb is to lower your expectations to avoid disappointment when it comes to wifi speed in Carretera Austral (and generally in Chilean Patagonia).
If your travel is internet dependent, you can contact the accommodation and ask them about the strength of the connection before you book the room.
Cellular Coverage
Cell phone coverage along Carretera Austral is decent. It works without any problems in all towns or small villages.
Farther from the main road you go (for example, during the day or multi-day trips in national parks), the weaker cellular coverage will be.
Getting a local sim card to stay safe is always a great idea. Luckily, registering your cell phone in Santiago or Puerto Montt before you head out to Carretera Austral is easy.
It's often regarded that Entel has the best cell coverage in Carretera Austral.
Where to Eat
Eating out is always a fun part of every vacation, and a trip to Carretera Austral is no exception.
You can usually find several restaurants in every village along the way, although the quality varies a lot.
The good news is that there is always a place where you can go and fill up your stomach, which should appreciate everyone who's not a fan of cooking on holidays.
Don't forget that eating out in Carretera Austral every day can be expensive, at least compared to self-catering.
The prices for eating out in Carretera Austral are higher than in the rest of the country, but it's understandable due to the remote location.
As we traveled long term, we usually prepared our own meals to reduce our expenses.
Shopping
You won't have a problem finding a grocery store in every town and even in the tiniest village along Carretera Austral.
As we traveled along the Southern Road, we fully understood that all items in the shops cost more as the area is so remote, and some places are hard and time-consuming to reach.
We were pleasantly surprised that the food in small stores wasn't as overpriced as we expected, though it was far from cheap.
Still, everything in Chile was more expensive than in the other South American countries we had visited before this trip.
You can buy almost everything you need here, but fresh food is often hard to get, especially vegetables and fruits. If available, they are usually in bad condition.
We don't have to emphasize that you should bring your own medications and first-aid kit as most villages have no specialized pharmacies.
In case you need something from the pharmacy, or you need to stock up on food for multi-day hiking or to buy some new outdoor gear, your best bet is Coyhaique.
Drinking Water
Patagonia was the first place in South America where we drank tap water without worrying about what will happen to us the next day.
Water is generally safe to drink as it comes from the surrounding mountains, though it's always better to ask your host first.
Drinking tap water is not only a great way to save money when traveling.
But also an option to become a more responsible traveler who wants to lower plastic footprint and uses single-use plastics only when necessary.
What to Pack
Packing for Carretera Austral and, generally, Chilean Patagonia might be a little bit trickier than you think.
What you need to bring with you depends on the time of the year you will visit the region and your travel style.
However, some pieces of outdoor clothing and hiking gear will be required regardless of the season.
Firstly, the days will often be cold and windy in Carretera Austral, even in summer.
Secondly, it rains a lot here. And not surprisingly, even during the summertime.
Lastly, the sun can be pretty strong even on a cloudy day.
Therefore, you will need a good rain jacket, as it will be one of the most important items you bring to Patagonia with you.
We like to wear multiple layers of clothes, allowing us to react quickly to constant weather changes.
Functional underwear and t-shirt, good hiking pants, and sturdy hiking boots are among other important things you should pack.
Also, no matter how waterproof your hiking gear is, we still think bringing a regular rain poncho with you is a smart idea.
Strong sunscreen and good insect repellent against tabanos, Patagonian mosquitoes, also known as horse-flies, are a must.
Another chapter is camping gear, which should work in windy and rainy conditions.
Picking good quality camping equipment is the key to the success of your backpacking adventure.
Spend your money wisely, though, as a good lightweight tent and sleeping bag is expensive.
Here you will find more tips on what to pack for Patagonia.
Gas Stations
Today, there are more than enough gas stations along Carretera Austral, so you don't have to worry about this topic too much.
Just make sure you have enough gas to reach the next one. A general rule of thumb is to fill up your gas tank whenever possible.
When in doubt, ask the locals if the next village has a gas station and what are the opening hours as they are not often open 24/7.
The gas prices in Carretera Austral are competitive and not much higher than in the rest of the country.
At the time of our trip, one liter of petrol cost around 1.300 CLP, even in the most remote place, such as Villa O'Higgins.
Here are some popular locations with gas stations on Carretera Austral - Hornopiren, Chaiten, La Junta, Puyuhuapi, Coyhaique, Rio Tranquilo, Cochrane, and Villa O'Higgins.
You will also find additional gas stations in towns that are close to Ruta 7 such as Futaleufu, Puerto Cisnes, Puerto Aysen, Puerto Chacabuco, or Chile Chico.
Prices
Chile is the most developed country in South America, and we quickly discovered that it is among the most expensive places you can visit there.
As Carretera Austral is a remote tourist destination, this fact is reflected in even higher prices than in the rest of the country.
Unfortunately, the value you get for your money is often very basic and not better than in the rest of the continent.
Add Patagonia's remoteness to the equation, and you can tell this will not be a typical budget-friendly trip.
Fortunately, there are still ways to reduce the cost of travel, such as hitchhiking, sleeping in a tent, or preparing your own food.
It is hard to say the cost of an average Carretera Austral trip, as it depends on your travel style, travel budget, and itinerary.
Still, we can try to give you an idea.
Expect to pay 10.000 to 15.000 CLP per person for a bed in a dormitory or a private room with a shared bathroom.
The mid-range accommodation costs about 50.000 CLP, and if you like to stay in something nice, the prices can exceed 300.000 CLP per night.
Meals in a restaurant start at 10.000 CLP, depending on the type of the restaurant. It was about the same amount of money we spent on groceries each day.
As we mentioned earlier, the gas cost about 1.300 CLP.
Language Barrier
Even though Carretera Austral is a popular and well-known destination among international travelers from around the world, the language barrier is still there.
It's always a good idea to learn some Spanish basics to be able to find accommodation, ask for driving directions or current bus schedules and buy some food in a grocery store.
The road consists of small settlements and villages where it is not yet very common to find people speaking at least basic English.
The staff working in the visitors center is usually very helpful and speak some English.
Some translation app that supports Spanish to English will come in handy here.
You can also consider buying a Spanish Phrase Book that includes basic words and phrases.
Is Carretera Austral Safe?
As Chilean Patagonia lies in South America, you might be wondering whether Carretera Austal is safe to visit.
South America has not the best reputation when it comes to travel safety, something we can confirm from our personal experience. To be fair, some destinations are for sure safer than others.
Crime
The good news is that Carretera Austral is among the safest places in South America, as crime is almost non-existent here.
In fact, Patagonia is one of the safest places to travel to in the world, and once you get there, you will quickly understand why.
We mostly stayed in the family-owned homestays and almost never even got a key to our room.
When we asked for it, we got only a short answer: there is no key, and things are different here in the south.
Usually, we are not one of those light-headed people who leave their belongings in an unlocked room.
However, as we did not want to hike with two laptops and an extra camera, we decided to go with the flow and leave our belongings in the room.
We don't have to mention that we were always relieved that we found our room untouched.
You probably won't be traveling with that many electronic devices, but the point remains the same. It probably is a different story in more expensive hotels, though.
Unfortunately, opportunistic crime can happen anywhere in the world, even in places that are regarded as safe.
Hitchhiking
We are not usually the biggest fans of hitchhiking, but Carretera Austral was an exception to this rule.
Getting to remote places without a car is often not possible, so we combined public transport with hitchhiking.
And while our experience might greatly vary from yours, we never felt uncomfortable or even unsafe.
Weather
If you're traveling to Chilean Patagonia, known for severe weather, be prepared, be informed, and know how to stay safe and avoid danger.
We already mentioned that the weather is unpredictable in Patagonia.
Therefore, it's impossible to know for certain what the weather will do on your road trip. Unpredictable weather is an inherent risk of every travel.
Whether you drive to your next destination or go hiking in the mountains, always come prepared.
Factoring the weather situation into your Carretera Austral plans can save you trouble.
Today, it's easy to find up-to-date information on current weather conditions, but keep in mind that the weather forecast is still not that accurate in this area.
Travel Insurance
Patagonia is a wild and vast region, and help is not as close as you would expect.
Always stay safe.
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
How Many Days For Carretera Austral
So how does it take to drive the Carretera Austral? Is one week enough, or do you need at least fourteen days to see it all?
The answer to this question is strongly individual as it depends on many factors.
What places do you want to see, what mode of transportation do you prefer, or where do you want to go next?
As we've mentioned earlier, try not to rush things. Carretera Austral is also about the journey, not just the destination.
1 Week
In our opinion, seven days is the bare minimum to get the feeling of this Chilean nature wonderland.
You will probably have enough time to travel from Puerto Montt to Chile Chico, visit several national parks along the way, and even do some hikes.
But we still believe that having a week for Carretera Austral is not enough.
Renting a car is something you should consider when short on time as it allows you to spend your time more efficiently.
10 Days to 2 Weeks
In our opinion, two weeks are optimal for Carretera Austral for vacationers.
It took us more than two weeks to get from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins using mostly public transport and hitchhiking.
We tried to embrace the Carretera Austral experience fully and enjoyed every second there.
It is also better to have one or two extra days in your itinerary for unexpected situations or whims of the weather.
3 to 4 Weeks
Three to four weeks might be the sweet spot if you plan to include some multi-day treks in your itinerary and rely on public transport.
Some people arrive in Carretera Austral to do serious hiking and camping in the area, and they can easily spend a month or two here and still not see everything.
Activities
Carretera Austral offers activities for all ages and abilities, ranging from hiking, camping, kayaking, white-water rafting, mountain biking, fishing, horseback riding, glacier trekking, rock climbing, and scenic flights.
The possibilities of activities you can do along Carretera Austral are almost endless.
Simply put, this is the place to go if you love nature and outdoor adventures.
The great thing about the Carretera Austral road trip is that you can even stay in your car the entire time and enjoy stunning views from the comfort of your four-wheeled friend.
How amazing is that?
By the way, some of our favorite hikes were Chaiten Volcano Trail in Pumalin and Altavista Trail near Villa O'Higgins.
Wildlife
The scenery along Carretera Austral is breathtaking, but this rugged area is also home to many animal species.
In the national parks along Carretera Austral, you might be able to see animals such as endangered huemuls, pudus (the smallest deer in the world), pumas, and condors.
Animals are shy, though, and an encounter, for example, with a puma, is extremely rare.
If you take a ferry from Tortel or a sea kayaking tour, you might even be able to spot some marine wildlife.
At some places, you can arrange a wildlife watching tour with a local operator to get closer to nature.
Honestly, this would probably be your best bet when it comes to spotting wildlife in the wilderness.
And unlike Yellowstone National Park or the Canadian Rockies, there are no bears which made our outdoor adventures definitely more stress-free.
Entrance Fees
Admission to national parks along Carretera Austral ranges roughly from 6.000 to 30.000 CLP, depending on the park policy and how many days you want to spend there.
The most expensive national park currently we visited was Cerro Castillo.
Fortunately, some exceptions exist, and places such as Pumalin or Patagonia National Park are free to visit.
At the time of our visit, some of the national parks didn't still have multi-day entry passes, meaning that we would need to pay the entrance fee each time we wanted to enter the park.
Be prepared that foreigners pay almost double what residents do.
Visitors Centers
Thanks to the internet, it's easier than ever to update yourself on current conditions, weather situation, bus schedules, or suitable hikes before visiting a Carretera Austral.
Still, services in Patagonia are constantly changing and developing, and finding the most up-to-date information is not easy.
Almost every town or village has a small visitor center, though, which is usually a good information source.
Also, local tour operators can help and provide you with everything you need to know about the place you want to visit.
Don't be afraid to ask the locals. They often know more than what you can find online.
Making Reservations in Advance
Generally, to make sure that you will have a place to stay when you arrive at your destination, you should make your reservations in advance.
On the other hand, we usually stayed in local hospedajes which are not on booking sites, and didn't reserve anything in advance.
We just asked around when we arrived at our next destination and never had any problems finding a room, even in the high season.
You might need to book in advance only if you want to stay in better-looking places which are possible to reserve online as they tend to fill up quickly and rates increase troughout the time.
We recommend booking the bus tickets in advance, though.
We've met some people who couldn't get on the bus when they appeared at the station in the morning without a ticket.
Also, some ferries are better to book in advance, especially when traveling by car. They don't go often, and the spots can fill up quickly.
Best Places to Visit Along Carretera Austral
There are so many unique and beautiful places to see along Carretera Austral, making it hard to decide which ones are worth visiting.
For starters, we believe you will find helpful information on this topic in our Carretera Austral itinerary.
It closely follows our journey from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins. It's a good source of information for first-time travelers and helps you get a sense of this scenic road.
If you plan to continue to Argentina, make sure also to read our Patagonia itinerary, which will help you to plan your trip across both countries.
So what are some of the must-visit places along Carretera Austral?
Do you love hiking? Pumalin National Park should be on your list.
Want to see huemuls? Then Cerro Castillo National Park is the place you should visit.
Are you into white-water rafting? You can spend days on a river near Futaleufu.
You can kayak in Corcovado National Park, explore the caves in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, or see glaciers in Bernardo O'Higgins National Park.
You can escape the crowds in Patagonia National Park or cross the borders to Argentina from Villa O'Higgins, the official end of Carretera Austral.
Is Carretera Austral Worth Visiting?
Carretera Austral is one of the most incredible places we've ever visited. So to answer your question, yes, Carretera Austral is definitely worth visiting.
It features some of the finest scenery in the world, some of the best hikes in Patagonia, and an immersive road trip experience.
Even though it's more accessible than ever, road tripping Carretera Austral requires some serious planning.
On the other hand, you will be rewarded for your efforts with one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.
If you've made it to the end of this post, we can't be happier.
We hope you've found all answers to your questions about visiting Carretera Austral here.
In case we did not mention something you're curious about, do not hesitate to leave a comment down below.
Also, every experience and feedback is much appreciated!
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
