A Guide to Pumalin National Park in Chile
Read our travel guide on Pumalin National Park, Chile. Includes everything you need to know about Parque Nacional Pumalin Douglas Tompkins, tips on when to go, top things to do and see, best hikes, must-visit places, where to stay, and how to get there.
Every journey has to start somewhere. And our trip across Patagonia started in Pumalin National Park.
Technically in Puerto Montt, but let's not get stuck in details.
Hands down, Pumalin National Park, was one of the best stops on our journey across the Carretera Austral.
Due to its pristine nature and deserted trails, this unexplored gem quickly became one of our favorite places in the entire Chilean Patagonia.
And we both agreed that we couldn't choose a better place to start our trip to Patagonia.
Carretera Austral boasts many national parks, hiking trails, crystal clear rivers, mighty glaciers, pristine lakes, and lush forests.
As a result, it was pretty hard to choose the place where to spend our precious and limited time in Patagonia.
As we arrived by ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten, our attention was immediately caught by the nearest attraction to this town, the Pumalin National Park.
Honestly, we didn't know what to expect before we stepped on the mainland after a 12-hour ferry ride from Puerto Montt.
Soon enough, it turned out to be one of the best surprises we've experienced in Patagonia.
So here's everything you should know about Pumalin National Park before you go.
Where is Pumalin National Park
As Pumalin might be the first place you visit in Patagonia, some introduction is necessary. Pumalin is a large national park located in southern Chile and the north part of Chilean Patagonia.
You will find it between Hornopiren and Chaiten on Carretera Austral, Chile's Southern Highway.
This scenic road runs through one of the world's most beautiful and remote landscapes in the world. It starts in Puerto Montt and finishes in Villa O'Higgins, the road's official end.
It is possible that you've never heard of those two towns, or you might not have heard of Carretera Austral either.
Still, the name Patagonia should put you back in the game.
One of the world's most sought-after and remote (and also painfully expensive) destinations consists of a large number of national parks.
Pumalin in the northern part of Chilean Patagonia widened the number of national parks just recently as it gained this status in 2017.
Moreover, it's still off the beaten path, meaning there are far fewer tourists on the trails, and you can experience Patagonia here in its authentic form.
What to See and Do in Pumalin National Park
There are many things to do and see in Pumalin National Park, and you can choose from hiking, biking, canoeing, kayaking, sports fishing, camping, and many more activities.
On top of that, there is one more reason why to visit Pumalin National Park.
It is also a place where you can see with your very own eyes that the effort of one single person can lead to the conservation of a large area resulting in a national park.
Creating a huge protected land that benefits not only local people but also flora and fauna within the area is truly a unique accomplishment.
And visiting places like Pumalin shows that not all is lost in this modern world.
History of Pumalin National Park
Usually, we are not much into the history of national parks, but we think the story about creating Pumalin National Park is worth mentioning.
It all started with the name Douglas Tomkins, a founder of outdoor gear The North Face who fell in love with Patagonia.
After several years of coming back here, he decided to buy land in northern Patagonia with a vision to protect the area where at that time, at the beginning of the 1990s was a high risk of logging.
Although many people discouraged him, and although at first, he was not accepted among locals as they saw him as a foreigner who was buying their land, between 1991 and 1998, he was able to acquire more than 700.000 acres.
Douglas Tomkins' foundation developed a tourist network in the area to encourage Chileans and international travelers to enjoy and appreciate the beautiful yet fragile nature.
Pumalin National Park is not the only place Douglas Tompkins helped to establish.
There is another newly opened national park simply called Patagonia National Park near Cochrane town on the Carretera Austral.
It also offers great hiking trails, and we had an opportunity to visit it later on.
When all the hard work was done, Douglas Tomkins donated the area back to the Chilean foundation and started to take care of the land.
Nowadays, the official name of the park carries the name of Mr. Tomkins to honor his actions and to remind the act of the largest donation of land to Chilean hands in the country's history.
How to Get to Pumalin National Park
Getting to Pumalin National Park is relatively easy, given its remote location. Just be prepared that it requires some time.
The accessible south part of the park is divided into two parts, the western and the southern.
The west part is best accessible from Caleta Gonzalo, while when visiting the south part is best done from Chaiten town.
The upper part of the park stretching between Hornopiren and Caleta Porcelan is only accessible by boat (or kayak), so we won't focus on this area in this guide.
Our trip across Chile began in the north, where we visited San Pedro de Atacama.
Then we traveled to Santiago and finally started our Patagonia adventure from Puerto Montt after arriving there from Pucon and Puerto Varas.
Therefore, we traveled to Chaiten in Pumalin from Puerto Montt, a port city in Llanquihue Province.
Either way, this small town is often considered a gateway to Pumalin National Park.
Bus
The most hassle-free way to reach Pumalin National Park is by bus.
The journey between Puerto Montt and Chaiten includes a combination of a bus and a ferry, so it's not just another bus ride.
At the time of our trip, buses were leaving around 7 AM, and the ride to Caleta Gonzalo took 8.5 hours and 9.5 hours to Chaiten.
The ticket costs 20.000 CLP, and you can buy it directly at the office in Puerto Montt.
Always make sure to check current schedules as they do often change in Patagonia.
Ferry
A direct ferry operates only between Puerto Montt and Chaiten. We booked the overnight ferry, and it took around 12 hours to reach its destination.
The ferry has reclining seats, and though we were a bit worried about the journey at first, the trip was quite comfortable.
The price is CLP 33.000 per person without a car. It is better to make a reservation in advance via Naviera Austral.
Do not forget to plan your travels a bit ahead as the ferry doesn't run every day.
You can also take a direct ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten when traveling by car, but you will need to pay an additional fee for a vehicle.
Car
One of the most popular ways to travel around Carretera Austral is by car, and the stretch between Puerto Montt and Chaiten is no exception.
It's a long and very scenic ride, but it requires a bit of planning.
From Puerto Montt, drive to Caleta Arena, where you need to catch a ferry to Caleta Puelche.
This is a short ferry ride (about 20 minutes), and you don't need to make a booking in advance.
The price is 800 CLP. Once you get to the other side, you need to drive to Hornopiren, where you will embark on another ferry.
You will go from Hornopiren to Leptepu, where you will have to get off the ferry. The ferry ride takes about three and a half hours.
You can book your spot in advance with Somarco (Barcazas).
This company runs ferries daily at 9 AM from Hornopiren. The cost is 10.000 CLP per person and 52.000 CLP per car.
Then drive for 10 minutes to Fiordo Largo, and from here, take the last ferry to Caleta Gonzalo.
Keep in mind that prices and ferry schedules can change every year.
Here you will find the best deals on rental cars in Patagonia.
Get Around
While reaching Chaiten from Puerto Montt by public transport is relatively easy given the circumstances, don't forget that all trails within the park start outside the town.
There are no buses or shuttles connecting the town with the popular trails, so you will need to improvise.
Therefore, having a car in this part of Chile is a huge advantage.
Otherwise, a combination of buses, hitchhiking, and walking will be required from your side.
Entrance Fee
There is no entry fee to Pumalin National Park, making it a perfect option for budget travelers.
We found entrance fees to national parks in Chile somewhat steep (usually 5.000 to 10.000 CLP), so the good news is that Pumalin National Park is an exception.
It's also another valid reason why to visit this national park.
Where to Stay
We decided to base ourselves in Chaiten and explore the Pumalin National Park from there.
The small town has everything you might need - small grocery shops, restaurants, a bank with an ATM, a gas station, a ferry terminal, and tour operators' offices.
There are more accommodations outside Chaiten along Road 7, but you should have a car to get there unless you want to hitchhike.
Here are some of the top hotels in Chaiten.
Budget | Paraiso Patagonico - Nice and cozy accommodation with great location and friendly hosts, Paraiso Patagonico is a good place to stay while in Chaiten.
Mid-range | Chucao Bosque y Cabanas - Lovely cabins with comfortable beds, well-equipped kitchen, and quiet location.
Mid-range | Posada de Expediciones Kahuel - Located about 4 kilometers outside Chaiten, Posada de Expediciones Kahuel offers a peaceful atmosphere, access to the beach, and charming rooms.
Camping
If you don't want to stay in the town and want to get closer to nature, camping is possible within Pumalin National Park.
Free camping is not allowed in Pumalin, so you must always use designated campgrounds while in the national park.
In the south sector, you will find Ventisquero Camping, Camping Vuelta del Rio, Camping Carlos Cuevas, or Camping Grande.
Unfortunately, some of these campsites are no longer in use for camping but only as picnic areas.
North of Chaiten, you can find, for example, Lago Blanco Campground, Lago Negro Campground, or Chaiten Eco Camping.
Campsites are usually very basic and cost 6.000 CLP per person.
Best Hikes in Pumalin National Park
We had two days to explore some of the finest trails in Pumalin, so we decided to see both the southern and the western parts of the park.
Here you will find more information on our favorite trails, which can be explored from Chaiten even if you don't have a car.
If you are traveling along Carretera Austral by car, getting to the park will be much easier.
Sector Sur - El Amarillo
As the name suggests, this is the southern part of the national park accessible via El Amarillo.
Our favorite trail was El Mirador, but you can also hike in this part of the park a 20-kilometer Ventisquero Trail or a 4-kilometer Ranita de Darwin Trail.
El Mirador Trail
A steep, hour-long climb will take you through dense forest to a lovely glacier viewpoint.
If you are traveling by car, you can park right at the beginning of the trail and walk only a 1.5 km long path to the viewpoint.
The glacier is a bit farther than the Hanging Glacier we saw in Queulat National Park, but still pretty impressive. Then, you can walk the same way back or complete the loop.
It is a bit more complicated if you travel to this section by public transport, but it should not discourage you from traveling to the park.
From Chaiten, take a 12 PM bus going to Futaleufu (or Palena). The bus leaves from the tourist office on the main road in Chaiten.
The ride costs 600 CLP, and you need to ask the driver to drop you off at El Amarillo.
Enter the park and follow the dirt road. You will pass two campgrounds: camping Carlo Cuevas and Vuelta del Rio.
Carry on further, and you will reach a crossroad (with a sign Sendero El Mirador) where you need to turn left.
The road will take you to the beginning of the ascent. You can make a loop and descend the other side of the hill to get back.
The main downside is that you must walk 8 kilometers to get to the hike trailhead (and then 8 kilometers back).
Alternatively, you can try to hitchhike to the beginning of the trail. Unfortunately, there were not many cars in the park on the day of our visit.
Therefore, we walked the whole portion from El Amarillo and back, and the entire trip took us five hours.
When you get back to El Amarillo, you need to hitchhike (or walk 25 kilometers) to Chaiten because there are no buses in the afternoon to the town.
Unlike in Rio Tranquilo, where we visited Marble Caves, we were lucky and caught the ride back to the village in a short time.
Sector Oeste - Caleta Gonzalo
This section offers more trails than its southern counterpart, ranging from easy walks to strenuous day hikes.
You can choose trails such as 24-kilometer Volcan Michinmahuida Trail, 5-kilometer Tronador Trail or 2-kilometer Cascadas Escondidas Trail.
However, our favorite hike was to El Chaiten Volcano.
Volcano El Chaiten
The volcano Chaiten erupted in 2008 and destroyed not only the big part of the park (the park was closed for two years) but also severely damaged the town of Chaiten.
Until today, you can see that the forest hasn't entirely recovered yet. Still, the hike to the volcano is worth your time and effort.
Honestly, this was one of the best day hikes in Patagonia.
You will have the opportunity to admire the active volcano, lagoons, interesting flora, lakes, mountains, and even the sea.
The Volcano Chaiten Trail is a 2.5-kilometer in-and-out trail (5 kilometers roundtrip) that takes about three hours to complete.
You can either drive to the parking near the trailhead by car or use public transport.
To get to the start, take a Kemel bus from Chaiten at 10 AM or 2 PM to Puerto Montt and ask the driver to drop you off at the Sendero El Chaiten trailhead.
To get back, you can either hitchhike (there are fewer cars than in the southern part of the park as not many people live here)
Alternatively, you can wait for a bus coming back from Puerto Montt.
It should be passing by the trailhead around 3:30 PM - 4 PM. Just ask at the local office if the bus is scheduled to depart that day.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
Do I Need a Guide?
No, you don't need a guide to visit Pumalin National Park as the trails are clearly marked and easily accessible.
We explored some of the park's best trails on our own, and we believe that you shouldn't have problems in this regard either.
On the other hand, if you've just started hiking or don't want to walk alone, having a guide with you is never a bad option.
Moreover, if you want to try, for example, kayaking, then you will most likely need to arrange a tour.
We can recommend Chaitur in Chaiten, a local agency with English-speaking staff who can help you arrange bus tickets, accommodation, and tours.
When to Go
Summer, December to March, is the main hiking season in Patagonia. Therefore, it's the best time to visit Pumalin National Park and other places in Patagonia.
The average temperature is 17℃ during this period, so the climate here is milder than in the south. It is also not that cold at night, which is convenient when camping.
Summer is also the dry season in Pumalin, but this is a relative term as it still rains a lot here.
Keep in mind that the weather in Patagonia is unpredictable, and it can rain anytime.
During our hikes, we experienced sunny and rainy periods constantly changing every ten minutes!
Pack rain ponchos and wear layers for every weather.
Winter months in Pumalin are usually cold, rainy, or even snowy at higher elevations. Hiking is possible during this period, but you should be well-experienced.
Weather in general on Carretera Austral is changing fast, and you never know what to expect.
We experienced most of the Chilean climate along the way, but the constant weather changes in Patagonia never ceased to surprise us.
For more information on this topic, read our guide on when to visit Patagonia.
What to Pack
Patagonia is all about hiking, and you should arrive prepared here. Pumalin is, like all other national parks in this region, known for its unpredictable weather.
Never underestimate the weather while exploring the great outdoors.
While you can wear lightweight hiking shoes on easier trails, we would still recommend bringing proper hiking boots.
They will help you prevent ankle sprains, provide better support, and keep your feet nice and dry troughout the day.
When hiking in Pumalin, you should pack snacks, a water bottle, a rain poncho, and extra layers of clothes to stay warm.
A comfortable daypack with good back support and a waist strap is a must-have.
Staying dry and warm is the most important thing when hiking in the mountains. Make sure to have a good rain jacket.
We would also bring a trusty rain poncho in case of heavy rain.
Also, having sunscreen and mosquito repellent is a good idea, especially in the summer.
Trekking poles are a great piece of gear that will help you tackle every trail regardless of its difficulty.
They will give you much-needed stability in every terrain, reduce the stress on your joints, and help you keep pace.
Patagonia was the only place in South America where we refilled our trusty water bottles directly from the streams and even drank from water taps.
It also helps to reduce your plastic footprint.
Here you will find more tips on what to pack for Patagonia.
Is Pumalin National Park Worth Visiting?
Pumalin National Park was one of our favorite places on Carretera Austral.
It was also one of the first places we've visited in Patagonia, so we'll always have only good memories of this place.
As you will probably have to go through Chaiten on your road trip anyway, there is no reason why not to give this stunning park a chance.
On the other hand, the entire region is packed with incredible places, and it's always hard to choose the ones that are worth your time.
Ultimately, it all depends on your Patagonia itinerary and personal preferences.
You might indeed find more eye-catching places in Chilean Patagonia, such as Torres del Paine or Laguna Cerro Castillo.
But we believe that even the less-popular parks such as Pumalin National Park are worth visiting.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
