A Guide to Villa O'Higgins in Chile
Read our travel guide on what to see and do in Villa O'Higgins, a remote village in Chilean Patagonia known as the official End of the Carretera Austral. Includes tips on best trails, top activities, where to stay, how to get, and how to cross borders to Argentina from there.
A small town of 600, Villa O'Higgins in Chile's Aysen Region marks the end of the Carretera Austral.
When traveling across South America for several months, it did not happen to us often that we reached the point where we couldn't go any further.
But it was exactly the case with Villa O'Higgins, which turned out to be a place that reminded us of the symbolic end of the world.
Peaceful, quiet, set in a mountainous, rugged landscape where the time flows without noticing.
Carretera Austral, the scenic road that stretches for hundreds and hundreds of kilometers, ends here.
And those few travelers (in comparison with a number of people doing this road trip every year) who have reached this point have two options.
Head back to their starting destination or continue to Argentina via one of the most unusual and scenic border crossings we've ever seen and done.
But one thing after another.
Here's everything you should know before visiting Villa O'Higgins in Chile.
Why Visit Villa O'Higgins
Located in the heart of Chilean Patagonia, Villa O'Higgins is a small town founded not that long time ago, in 1966.
It was named after Chilean independence leader Bernardo O'Higgins.
When traveling around Chile, you will sooner or later find out that there's probably not a settlement in this country without at least one street or one plaza named after him.
Due to its tiny size, Villa O'Higgins is more like a small village than a town. Its biggest appeal is the remote location and breathtaking landscape that surrounds it.
Expect to see mountains, lakes, and many glaciers as the settlement is a gateway to the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
After more than two weeks since we left Puerto Montt, we finally reached Villa O'Higgins.
Even though it wasn't some great achievement, we were quite proud of ourselves.
Traveling Carretera Austral without a car and on a considerably low budget was not always easy or comfortable.
However, it was definitely worth the effort. And we really felt privileged to enjoy Patagonia, one of the roughest and purest places in the world.
To be honest, everything on this trip went far better than we had expected before our journey.
The weather cooperated with us, and we were able to travel from one place to another without any major issues.
At the end of the day, there was always a bed in the local hospedaje waiting for us within our set price range.
As soon as we arrived in Villa O'Higgins, we knew immediately that this place would be the right one to finish every Carretera Austral road trip.
Facilities
You can expect a lot when it comes to wonderful views but not that much in terms of services and facilities in the town.
Hopefully, luxurious hotels or fancy restaurants are not those reasons which brought you here. A few grocery stores, guesthouses, campsites, or small restaurants will have to suffice this time.
Food in stores is not as overpriced as you would have expected in such a tiny village located so far from big cities.
The only thing which is hard to come by here is fresh vegetables or fruits, but that's expected due to its location.
In Villa O'Higgins, you can find a couple of cafes and small restaurants but be prepared that eating out will cost a bit more.
We usually searched for accommodation with a shared kitchen to cut down our expenses. The bar scene is non-existent here, but that's not why you're here.
If you need any information about hikes or how to cross borders, you can visit a small information center on the square or the Robinson Crusoe office.
It is also the office where you can arrange transport to Argentina and book the ferry tickets. The staff speak English well and is helpful.
Update 9/2022 - It seems that Robinson Crusoe is not currently operating. Turismo Ruedas de La Patagonia seems open. Please let us know in the comments section about your experience to help other travelers.
Right at the beginning of the village is a COPEC gas station in case you arrive by car.
The fuel cost was similar to other places along Carretera Austral, such as Chaiten or Puerto Rio Tranquilo.
You won't find ATM or exchange office in Villa O'Higgins, so bring cash with you.
Trust us, running out of money here would be far from ideal. Some stores or tourist offices accept credit cards, though.
Where to Stay in Villa O'Higgins
As we traveled on a budget, we showed up in Villa O'Higgins without a reservation and tried to find a room in one of the local hospedajes.
After some walking around the village while carrying our heavy backpacks, we managed to get a good deal for a couple of nights.
From our own experience, the main disadvantage of this approach is that it's not very enjoyable to look for a room in cold, rainy, and windy weather.
Also, keep in mind that the hotels can be fully booked during the peak season. Therefore, we recommend you book your accommodation in advance.
There are not as many accommodations in the village as in the rest of the settlements along the Carretera Austral. And there are even fewer places that you can book online.
Due to its remote location, be warned that prices are higher here than in other villages along the Carretera Austral.
Here are the best hotels you can find in Villa O'Higgins.
Budget | El Mosco - If you're looking for the cheapest option in Villa O'Higgins, go for the El Mosco hostel. It offers private rooms, dormitories, and camping sites. The only disadvantage is that you must contact them directly via Facebook to make a reservation.
Budget | Puesto Canogas Hostel - Featuring cozy rooms, complimentary breakfast, free parking, and an excellent location, this is one of the best places to stay overnight in Villa O'Higgins. It really is a great value for money.
Mid-range | Rumbo Sur Hotel - Formerly known as the Robinson Crusoe Deep Patagonia Lodge, this is by far the most comfortable and luxurious option in Villa O'Higgins. The rooms are bright and quiet, and they come with private bathrooms. The staff is helpful and will help arrange tours in case you want to explore this area more thoroughly.
Camping
Villa O'Higgins has a few campsites, and Camping Los Nires is arguably the most popular one.
The campground is spacious and has good facilities, a hot shower, a common cooking area, and a heated dining room.
It's located near the gas station, and campsites cost 5.000 CPL per night per person.
What to See and Do in Villa O'Higgins
Once you reach Villa O'Higgins, you might be under the impression that this is it. The end of your journey.
You have finally reached the end of Carretera Austral, and nothing awaits you here except for a trip back home or a journey to Argentina.
That would be an absolutely wrong assumption.
The village is surrounded by mountains, forests, rivers, lakes, and glaciers.
Therefore, you can choose from several hiking trails which lead to spectacular viewpoints and allow you to appreciate the beauty of this remote region fully.
You can also do several multi-day treks from Villa O'Higgins, but you usually need proper equipment and a local guide.
Altavista Trail
Due to strong winds, a guy in the information center recommended the Altavista Trail to us.
He claimed that this hike was really beautiful and should have been affected the least by the wind gusts.
If you have a chance, don't miss this one. It is close to the village, not strenuous (mostly up and down), and offers beautiful vistas from the beginning.
In fact, we believe it's one of the best hikes in Patagonia.
It might not be as spectacular as Cerro Castillo or Grey Glacier, but there were barely any people on the trail.
Altavista Trail starts three kilometers from Villa O'Higgins, so it's easy to get to the trailhead on foot. It is an easy walk on a flat road, and you won't spend much of your energy here.
After crossing a bridge, you should see a sign Altavista Trail on your right-hand side and a fence you need to climb over (it is legal, no worries).
The first section leads through a forest, but views start to open up very soon.
On a clear day, you can admire lakes, mountains, and glaciers from the trail.
It depends on you how far you want to walk. We hiked approximately six kilometers one way before we decided to get back to the village.
El Tigre Lake and Glacier Hike
This hike starts about 20 kilometers from the village, and the only way to get there is by car or hitchhiking.
It's a moderately difficult hike to the beautiful turquoise lake with two side trips, El Tigre glacier being one of them.
To get back, you have to walk the same trail. You also have an option to camp there.
Cerro Submarino
At first, we wanted to climb Cerro Submarino, about 1832 meters high peak, which is a challenging activity.
However, when we arrived and checked the trail conditions with the local tour operator, they told us that the weather was not suitable for the hike due to strong winds.
Therefore, we chose to hike the Altavista Trail instead. We believe this must be a fantastic hiking experience if the weather allows it.
Mirador Villa O'Higgins
Several viewpoints above the village offer great views of the valley and the surrounding mountains.
This trail is among the best thing you can do in Villa O'Higgins when short on time. The trail starts right from the village, and you can see the highest point with a flag from there.
You will get stunning views of the whole valley and the village.
Mosco Glacier
Sendero Mosco Glacier is a 10-kilometer out-and-back trail that starts in the village.
It's moderately difficult, well-marked, and perfect for everyone looking to walk in the wilderness without crowds.
Follow the trail along the Mosco River through the lush green forest and enjoy the views at Mosco Glacier Lookout.
As usual, you have to walk the same path back to the village.
Activities
Villa O'Higgins offers much more than just hiking. Among the best activities to do while there are salmon fishing, horseback riding, camping, or glacier trekking.
O'Higgins Glacier
From the village, you can also see the stunning O'Higgins Glacier, the base of Southern Patagonia's Ice Field.
The glacier is located in Bernardo O'Higgins National Park and flows into O'Higgins Lake.
It is best reached by boat, so you can expect it's not exactly the most budget-friendly thing to do.
If you've enjoyed glaciers in Pumalin National Park or Queulat National Park, O'Higgins Glacier should also be on your list.
End of Carretera Austral
When we mentioned at the beginning of this blog post that the Carretera Austral ends in Villa O'Higgins, it was not technically correct information.
The official end of the road is at Puerto Bahamondes, a tiny port from where you can catch a ferry to Argentina.
The port is located about seven kilometers south of the village, and you can easily get there, even on foot or by bike.
Even if you don't plan to cross the lake, Puerto Bahamondes might be worth visiting as it features the iconic wooden sign that marks the official end of the road.
After 1247 kilometers, you've finally reached the end of the road. Congratulations.
If you walk behind, then you will realize that the sign also marks the start of the Carretera Austral.
Therefore, you can also take a picture that shows 0 kilometers.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
How to Get to Villa O'Higgins
There are several ways to reach Villa O'Higgins, including by car, bus, bike, or hitchhiking.
Car
The easiest way to get to Villa O'Higgins is by car.
However, this option has a major drawback. Therefore, not many international travelers reach Villa O'Higgins by car.
Not only it's quite far, but most importantly, the road literally ends here.
Therefore, you can't go any further from Villa O'Higgins by car. Still, if you are among the very few who decide to get here (and we salute you on this decision), it is not hard at all.
Just be prepared that the road is not still fully paved, so you need to drive carefully.
Directions are very simple in this case. You must only drive south and follow Carretera Austral till its very end.
Once you reach Puerto Yungay, take a free ferry to Rio Bravo and carry on to Villa O'Higgins.
The nearest larger settlement on Carretera Austral is Cochrane, located about 230 kilometers north of Villa O'Higgins.
Tortel lies on Road X-904 and is about 150 kilometers from Villa O'Higgins.
Here you will find the best deals on rental cars in Patagonia.
Bus
When traveling by public transport, take a direct bus to Villa O'Higgins from Cochrane.
The bus runs three times a week, so it requires a bit of careful planning if you are on a tight schedule.
With nearby Patagonia National Park, you should not have a problem effectively killing some time.
The bus price recently dropped as the government decided to subsidize this route to make it more accessible to local people.
The bus leaves in the morning, around 8:30 AM, it costs 8.000 CLP. The journey took us about seven hours.
The bus usually runs from Cochrane on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. From Villa O'Higgins to Cochrane, the bus departs on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.
Unfortunately, there was no direct bus from Coyhaique to Villa O'Higgins at the time of our trip.
Hitchhiking
We usually used hitchhiking to reach some national parks and opted for public transport when traveling between the towns.
But if you travel long term and want to save as much money as possible, you can always try to hitch a ride to Villa O'Higgins.
Bike
Carretera Austral is a popular cycling route, though the journey is far from easy and requires a lot of determination.
We met some people in Villa O'Higgins who even continued their trip to Argentina.
Where to Go Next
As the road ends in Villa O'Higgins, you should make a plan of where you want to go from the village and how you will get there.
When you arrive there by car, the most obvious way how to get out is to do a U-turn and return to your starting point.
In this case, you would presumably have to drive back all the way to Puerto Montt, which is more than 1200 kilometers away. It doesn't sound like too much fun, though.
If you want to go to Argentina, you can cross the borders in Chile Chico, located about 400 kilometers north of here.
Unfortunately, you usually can't travel from Chile to Argentina by rental car, so you would need to use public transport for cross-border travel.
Alternatively, you could travel to Tortel and catch a ferry from there to Puerto Natales. It would mean that you would remain in Chile and not enter Argentina.
There is also another way to get from Villa O'Higgins to Argentina.
How to Get From Chile to Argentina
Indeed, you can cross the borders from Chile to Argentina via Villa O'Higgins. Keep in mind that you must travel only on foot or bike.
Here is a quick summary of the trip, but we recommend you to read our full report in this guide on how to cross the borders from Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten.
First, you will need to take a bus in the morning to a small port Puerto Bahamondes near the village and then take a ferry across O'Higgins Lake. Alternatively, you can walk there.
From Candelario Mancilla, hike 22 kilometers through a deserted landscape, then take another ferry across the Lago del Desierto (or walk another 14 kilometers around its shore).
Finally, take a bus from the port to El Chalten.
It sounds maybe more complicated than it actually is. The good news is that it's easily doable in one day.
Alternatively, you can camp along the way, split the journey into two (or even more) days, and see the glacier along the way.
It's somewhat expensive, but we believe it's worth the money, even if you're traveling on a budget.
You can save some money by walking around the Lago del Desierto, but there is no other way to get across O'Higgins Lake than by taking a boat.
When to Visit Villa O'Higgins
Unsurprisingly, the best time to visit Villa O'Higgins is during the summer.
The period between December to February is officially summer in this part of Patagonia, and you should expect warmer temperatures, sunnier days, but also bigger crowds.
Still, it's nowhere near as crowded as some other popular places in Patagonia, such as Torres del Paine or El Chalten.
Keep in mind that Villa O'Higgins is, despite everything, still a very rainy, windy, and cold place, even in the summer.
And even though the relatively higher average temperatures might suggest otherwise.
Spring and autumn are great alternatives to the busy summer season. Fewer people will be on Carretera Austral, but facilities and services might be limited.
Winters in Villa O'Higgins are chilly, and you should always be prepared for snow.
However, the daily temperatures are not as low as you would probably expect to find in this part of the world.
Don't forget that during this period, some accommodations might be closed and bus services limited.
Here you will find more tips on when to visit Patagonia.
What to Pack
The weather in Villa O'Higgins is as unpredictable throughout the year as in the rest of Patagonia.
There are plenty of days with showers in Villa O'Higgins, even during the summer.
We always bring a rain jacket and rain pants to stay dry and warm when hiking in the wilderness.
On top of that, we always have a rain poncho in our daypack just in case.
The daypack should be big enough to fit all your extra layers, snacks, and a water bottle.
Getting sturdy hiking boots is a great investment if you do a lot of hiking. Similarly, trekking poles might come in handy on almost every trail in Patagonia.
Bringing sunscreen and insect repellent is also very important.
You should consider bringing a few more things for your trips, such as a travel camera or GPS watch.
Here you will find more tips on what to pack for Patagonia.
Is Villa O'Higgins Worth Visiting
In our opinion, Villa O'Higgins is worth visiting. Being located at the end of the road, the village has a different character from other settlements along the Carretera Austral.
It's a peaceful, serene place, and even though it's not the proper end of the world, it definitely feels like it.
You will barely meet anyone on the local trails while hiking, while the village is so quiet that it reminds you of almost a ghost town.
And arriving from here to the crowded El Chalten on the other side of the border was quite a bit of a shock after this experience.
On the other hand, if you decide to visit Villa O'Higgins, it really makes sense to plan your trip carefully, especially if you arrive here by car.
When we planned our Patagonia itinerary, we weren't sure at first if we would make it to the Villa O'Higgins.
It seemed so far away that we weren't sure whether the effort to reach it was worth it.
Looking back at how the entire trip turned out, we are glad we did.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
