Villa De Leyva Travel Guide: Two Days in the Colonial Village
Here is our travel guide to a wonderful colonial historical town Villa de Leyva, Colombia. We spent there two full days, and this post includes the best things to do in Villa de Leyva, must-visit places, tips on how to get there, safety tips, and where to stay.
One of the most beautiful and well-preserved colonial towns in Colombia is the famous Villa de Leyva, a small authentic town that lies only four hours' drive from Bogota, the capital city of Colombia.
That's why it is a popular travel destination among international travelers and locals alike
There's no insane number of things to do in Villa de Leyva.
Still, the authentic feel, photogenic cobblestone streets lined with whitewashed buildings, lively square, and most importantly, the wonderful settings are the reason why this colonial town is on every Colombia itinerary.
The serenity and charm of Villa de Leyva are what attract crowds.
Combine it with a great food scene and very drinkable coffee, and you'll understand why so many travelers keep extending their stay in Villa de Leyva.
We spent two months in Colombia and saw our share of beautiful colonial towns. Barichara, Jardin, Salento, and we could go on and on.
That's being said, if we had to choose which one to visit during our next trip to this country, we would not mind spending a day or two in Villa de Leyva once again.
VILLA DE LEYVA
We are usually pessimistic when we read poetic words in guidebooks about villages frozen in time or about places where you step back in time.
Nowadays, not many places can maintain real authenticity and keep the feeling from the past.
If you believe these words, you may find Villa de Leyva a bit overrated in some ways, but it doesn't change the fact that it is worth the visit.
It is the same as with many other popular destinations - you need to set your expectations right.
The truth is that the architecture in Villa de Leyva didn't change much from the late 16th century when the town was founded.
That's why the village in the Andes is so high-rated among travelers.
Despite the popularity among the travelers, Villa de Leyva is still off the main roads, and probably this is one reason why it has undergone only a little development in the past 400 years.
So let's visit Villa de Leyva with us.
We hope this travel guide will ignite your wanderlust, and you will include this colonial town in your travel itinerary.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN VILLA DE LEYVA
Villa de Leyva doesn't only boast colonial buildings and stone-made streets. The secluded settings, deep in the surrounding hills together with moody clouds rolling over later in the afternoon, create the genius loci and amazing atmosphere.
The town's unique rural landscape also offers excellent conditions for travelers who love nature and enjoy spending time actively.
Once you are done with sightseeing, feel free to get off the beaten path and hike or bike the nearby trails to get the hard to beat view of the town from above.
As we could see, for example, in Bogota, the Colombian government works hard to promote cycling as a healthy and modern way how to get around, and it seems that Colombians took the initiative seriously and became passionate bike lovers.
We also cannot forget that Villa de Leyva is an important archeological location with a few museums where you can also spend some time.
What to do in Villa de Leyva? Let's find out.
WANDER STREETS OF VILLA DE LEYVA
It is very easy to explore Villa de Leyva independently and on foot. The town is conveniently small, so there's no chance you could get lost.
We loved the freedom of walking around without having a set plan of what to see.
We just followed our senses, and the streets always took us somewhere nice. Do not be worried that you would miss any top attraction or a must-visit place within the town.
The streets will eventually take you there.
But as we know, most travelers like to tick the best places to visit off the list (ourselves included); we've put together Villa de Leyva's top architectural gems.
You simply cannot miss Plaza Mayor. It is the famous, most photographed square (and one of the few in Colombia not named after Simon Bolivar).
It is also one of South America's largest plazas, one of the liveliest place in the whole village and unquestionably a spot to admire.
Colonial buildings surround the square, the south-east side features the Iglesia Parroquial, and in the middle of the square stands the Mudejar Fountain.
Another church, Iglesia del Carmen, and Parque Antonio Ricaurte should also be on your map.
Parque Antonio Ricaurte is named after Colombia's national hero, and on this very square is also a house where he was born, now turned into a museum.
Actually, for its size, has Villa de Leyva a lot of museums.
You can visit a house where was born another independence hero, Antonio Narino, that now holds interesting exhibitions.
EL FOSIL
Villa de Leyva lies in the Boyaca department, where many archeological sites and fossil discoveries have been made.
In the El Fosil museum, you can find a 120 million-year-old Kronosaurus skeleton.
The fossil of a prehistoric marine reptile is 7 meters long, and what's interesting, the specimen here in Villa de Leyva is the world's most complete. One more cool information - the museum was actually built around this skeleton.
Apart from the Kronosaurus, you can also see a display of other smaller species found in the area.
The entrance fee is 7 000 COP, all labels are in Spanish only, but there is not that much to read, and the place is visually entertaining.
The museum is 6 km from the village. We'll tell you down below how to get there, so keep on reading.
You can buy the ticket in advance to skip the line, but we think this site, even though it is interesting, is not that popular that it would be necessary to pay a few dollars extra for such a privilege.
CONVENTO DEL SANTO ECCE HOMMO
About 13 km from Villa de Leyva, the quiet monastery from 1620 represents a nice getaway from sometimes too busy Colombia streets.
The monastery features a beautiful courtyard with a stone well in the middle and a notable chapel.
Have a closer look at floors and walls as they contain fossils because the material comes from the nearby fossil-rich area.
The entrance fee is 5 000 COP, and signs are in English and French as well.
EL INFIERNITO (ESTACION ASTRONOMICA MUISCA)
The Muisca tribe belongs to one of the oldest indigenous groups in Colombia.
They built monoliths into the ground in a repetitive pattern, and by measuring the shadows, they were able to predict the best planting seasons for their crop.
The El Infiernito site lies only 8 km from Villa de Leyva, and it is the place where you can see the original site of Muiscas.
All stones are outside, only some of them are protected against sun and rain by roof. We found this site worth visiting.
The entrance fee is 8 000 COP per person.
HOW TO VISIT SITES OUTSIDE VILLA DE LEYVA
You might be wondering how to get to El Fosil Museo, Convento del Santo Ecce Hommo and El Infiernito?
All these three sites outside Villa de Leyva can be visited by bike or by car. We opted for the latter and took a cab.
To see El Fosil, Convento del Santo Ecce Hommo, and El Infiernito, you will need three to four hours of your time.
First, go to the bus terminal close to the center, and there are always a few yellow taxis waiting.
We paid 60 000 COP without bargaining as we didn't speak any Spanish at the time, and it seemed to us as a reasonable price.
To be honest, we just wrote all three sites we wanted to visit on the piece of paper, the total price, and it worked out. The majority of tourists usually want to visit the same places, so the taxi drivers know the route and sites.
Before you go, always check opening hours by yourself.
Some sites close on Mondays or have a lunch break for a few hours, but drivers would probably take you there anyway.
POZOS AZULES
Around 2 km from the center of Villa de Leyva are Pozos Azules, five small and differently colored lakes that, when the sun shines, have a wonderful bright blue color.
It is possible to get there by taxi, but we decided to walk. How to get there independently?
Walk from the town and behind the shopping mall, where the pavement ends, take a shortcut via the dirt road on your right.
This road will take you to Pozos Azules entrance, and you don't have to share the roadway with cars.
You can find information online about possible swimming in lakes, but swimming is prohibited according to signs in the area.
The entrance fee is 10 000 COP per person, but the cashbox was closed at the time of our visit.
MARKET
We loved traveling in Latin America because of the wide selection of fresh vegetables and fruits.
We usually travel quite frugally and try to save money on the road, but the fruit is something we never forget to buy.
One of our favorite things to do in a foreign country is visiting colorful and very photogenic markets.
If you happen to be in Villa de Leyva on Saturday, make sure you visit the market at Plaza Mercado, where you can wander around and enjoy the authentic atmosphere.
CYCLING & HIKING
The region around Villa de Leyva is a paradise for active travelers.
The hills around are very tempting, so in case you want to enjoy some fresh air, do not hesitate, and put your hiking boots on.
The most popular hike to Mirador el Santo takes about an hour, and prepare yourself for a serious climb, although every averagely fit traveler should be able to make it without problems.
This trail is well-marked and offers wonderful views. If you prefer biking, you can rent a bike from one of the agencies in the town for approximately 7 000 COP per hour.
Ask the staff to show you the map of biking trails.
TERRACOTTA HOUSE
Except for the traditional architecture, Villa de Leyva, one odd must-see attraction, called the Terracotta House.
We can guarantee you that you won't overlook this house that is entirely made of clay.
The exterior is pretty impressive, and if you also want to see how this house is furnished, you need to pay 15 000 COP as an entrance fee.
We skipped Terracotta House as it’s a bit expensive for what it offers, but if you like similar attractions, give it a try.
HOW TO GET TO VILLA DE LEYVA
The majority of visitors visit Villa de Leyva from Bogota, and so we did. You can buy a ticket in advance on the Redbus website or directly at the terminal.
A direct bus goes twice a day from Terminal de Salida, one early in the morning and the other around midday.
You can also wait for the bus at Terminal del Norte, but if you haven't booked the ticket in advance, there is no guarantee that seats will be available because this bus is coming from Terminal del Salida.
Omega bus company operates this route, and it takes around 4 hours to get to Villa de Leyva.
Several buses per day run from Bogota to Tunja, the capital city of the Boyaca department, and from Tunja, it is easy to switch to a bus to Villa de Leyva.
Several buses per day run from Bogota to Tunja, the capital city of Boyaca department and from Tunja, it is easy to switch to a bus to Villa de Leyva.
You can also visit the town by taking a Villa de Leyva Tour from Bogota, and you won't need to care about the transport.
We do not know what's your next destination after Villa de Leyva.
We headed to San Gil in Colombia’s Santander Department, but you will most likely have to retrace your steps to Tunja and carry on from there.
WHERE TO STAY IN VILLA DE LEYVA
You will find plenty of accommodation options in Villa de Leyva.
Nowadays, many original buildings turned into hotels with lovely courtyards, and we highly recommend you to stay in a traditional house to soak in the colonial atmosphere.
Hotels are usually fully booked on Friday and Saturday nights, so make your reservation well in advance. You can find below the top picks for every type of traveler.
Budget | Casa de Huéspedes Faletto - Budget-friendly accommodation features clean rooms and great facilities. The property is within walking distance from Plaza Mayor, and we think it is a great cheap option.
Mid-range | Villa Gaddiel - Centrally located hotel in an old colonial building. This is the place that we stayed in, and we can only recommend it.
Luxury | Hotel Plazuela de San Agustín - Hotel is set in a beautiful building from the colonial-era, offers spotless nicely decorated rooms and beautiful courtyards.
SAFETY IN VILLA DE LEYVA
Colombia sometimes does not have the best reputation when it comes to safety, but it is usually the case in the larger cities.
We found Villa de Leyva absolutely safe, even after dark.
Of course, in the evening, we usually walked on well-lit streets and did not wander too far, but we did not have a weird feeling for a single second.
During the day, Villa de Leyva has a small-town feel, and we do not think there's a part of the town where it is not advised to go to.
As usual, use your common sense. Keep your valuables inside the backpack, or leave them in the room.
If you are still unsure about traveling to Colombia and South America in general, read our in-depth post Is It Safe to Travel to South America, which includes useful tips and advice on how to stay safe.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
WHERE TO EAT IN VILLA DE LEYVA
Colombian cuisine is not the healthiest one, and it is certainly not diet-friendly.
Almost all meals are deep-fried, heavy, and we were desperate to find something "normal" to eat at the beginning of our trip.
Fortunately, in Villa de Leyva, we found a real gem, the restaurant La Tienda de Teresa. They are famous for breakfast and lunch, which can often sell out before 2 PM. The food is tasty and the price very cheap.
We had a menu del dia (lunch menu) for only 10 000 COP each, and it consisted of soup, chicken with rice and salad, juice, and dessert.
Restaurant opening times in Villa de Leyva vary greatly, so don't rely on information online too much.
There is also a small grocery store with good prices where we usually bought some yogurts, buns, and most importantly, avocados. A shop with fresh fruits and vegetables is just across the street.
As Villa de Leyva sees many visitors, you will also find here many coffee shops and sweet shops.
BEST TIME TO VISIT VILLA DE LEYVA
In general, the best time to visit Villa de Leyva is between December and March, which is the dry season, followed by July and August.
During this time, it does not rain that often, and temperatures are pleasant. Hills surrounding the town often hold the clouds.
The rainiest time for the visit is October, but it should not put you off visiting during this time.
The advantage of traveling out of season is the lack of crowds. It is often warm during the day, but nights in the town are cooler.
We've heard that Villa de Leyva is a perfect getaway for Bogotans, who take the village by storm, especially on weekends.
We didn't want to arrive from Bogota to another crowded place, although on a smaller scale, so we smartly planned our arrival on Monday in the afternoon.
It would have been a perfect plan if it hadn't been the last day of an annual festival honoring Virgin del Carmen.
The square was full of stalls, jumping castles, loud concerts, and fireworks.
As we arrived late, we could've comforted ourselves that it's the last day of celebration (the information we quickly googled) and the square will be dead the day after.
But what we didn't know was that Colombians continue the celebration even after the official end (not only for a day but two!).
But anyway, we enjoyed our time here, but if you're looking to get a calm or romantic experience, always check local festivities or holidays as well.
WHAT TO PACK
If you stay in Villa de Leyva overnight, do not expect only sunshine, and arrive well-prepared.
Cobblestone streets are wonderful in the picture, but they are not very comfortable walking; therefore, wearing walking shoes with good support is a great idea.
Make sure you have a travel umbrella or rain poncho, because of the chance of rain.
Also, we were glad we packed a warm fleece jacket for the evening.
As many of the top things to do in Villa de Leyva are outside the town, we recommend you wearing a comfortable daypack with a waist strap.
And as we try to travel as sustainably as possible, we must include in this packing list a reusable water bottle, you can even consider a water bottles with integrated filters.
We've also written an in-depth South America packing list where you will find more useful tips and advice on what to pack.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
