Tatacoa Gray Desert Hike, Colombia
Tatacoa's Gray Desert Hike was one of our favorite things to do in Colombia's Huila Department. Read our hiking guide to the Gray Desert of Tatacoa (Los Hoyos), including tips on where to find a trailhead, how to get there by tuk-tuk, and where to stay after the hike.
Two hikes in Tatacoa Desert in one day? We simply could not say no.
After we finished our hike in the Tatacoa Red Desert, we didn't know any better than to catch a tuk-tuk and drive to Los Hoyos, a place known for a labyrinth of gray formations that were created ages ago by water and erosion.
It is the color that gave this part of the desert the name, and it is therefore called Gray Desert.
Yes, before you visit the Tatacoa Desert, you should know that this destination is split into two parts, a red area of Cuzco and a gray area of Los Hoyos.
If you want to know more about Gray Desert, keep on reading.
In this travel guide, we share with you tips on how to get to Los Hoyos, what to expect, where to stay, and what to pack.
HOW TO GET TO TATACOA GRAY DESERT
Los Hoyos, alias the Gray Desert, is located 8 km ride from Cuzco, which is the part where you can find the majority of guesthouses, Red Desert, or Astronomical Observatory.
It is easy to find a tuk-tuk driver that will take you to the Gray Desert.
He will even wait for you for an hour or two, depending on your previous agreement and the price you are willing to pay.
If you think that two hours are not enough to explore the desert or want to save some money, pay the driver for one way, and catch someone else for the way back.
The drive took about 20 minutes.
It was a dusty ride, and it was already late afternoon when we finally arrived in the Gray Desert and started our second hike of the day.
TRAILHEAD
The trail starts at Estadero Los Hoyos, but we didn't know that, so we asked our driver to drop us off at the Piscina Mineral, where the trail ends.
We just assumed that the famous pool in the desert must be the starting point.
It actually does not matter, only the trail from the point where we started was not that well-marked, but we recommend you use the app Maps.me.
So we started at the parking lot simply called Parqueadero Los Hoyos, and from there it was a short walk to the swimming pool.
If you would like to take a dip in these three tiny artificially built swimming pools behind an ugly fence, don't forget to bring your swimsuit (and 8000 COP).
We did not find it that appealing.
GRAY DESERT HIKE
Ok, now comes the embarrassing part. We got lost again. And even more than in Red Desert. But we were used to that by then.
So after we passed the artificial swimming pool area, we carried on for at least half an hour until we asked ourselves why we haven't seen anyone except for a few horses and cows.
The trail suddenly looked more like a dry riverbed than the well-maintained path for tourists. Did we get lost again?
We decided to climb one of the large mounds via a narrow path, probably used by animals. From this elevated place, we could get a sense of the vastness of this stunning place.
What we saw was essentially several gray canyons creating a magnificent maze stretching as far as we could see.
It was clear that we could go on and on.
The landscape would be more and more beautiful, so we told ourselves that we could walk for about thirty minutes, and then we have to come back to the exit before the darkness falls.
I'm not sure how far you can actually go (without getting completely lost) but make sure you remember the way out. It would be a long night with the snakes and scorpions crawling all around you.
Also, make sure to wear a hat, apply sunscreen, and have plenty of water.
And if it's been raining, you will need sturdy boots as the trail gets muddy quickly.
We made a couple of short detours on the sweaty way back, which were dead ends or very rough trails, so we always returned to the wider path that seemed it would take us back.
Once we reached the place with the swimming pool, we turned back and enjoyed the last views of the Gray Desert for a little bit more.
The desert was slowly turning into a golden paradise because of the setting sun's soft and warm light.
After a long hiking day, we felt pretty tired and got back to the Red Desert area just in time to buy ourselves a treat.
A couple of freshly squeezed 'jugo naturales' with ice.
Then we sat on the edge of the canyon and watched the calm desert as the last sun rays of the day touched the tallest of the rock formations. It was a long day and an amazing adventure.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
GRAY OR RED DESERT?
The Red Desert is the main attraction in the area, which comes with a huge drawback; it gets quickly crowded.
The Gray Desert, on the other hand, is less popular, and this fact makes a perfect place of retreat, well except for the pool, which is the main (often crowded) attraction here.
But leisurely stroll a bit further away from the pool, and you will find yourself in a quiet world surrounded by surreal formations and breathtaking landscape.
We recommend you to visit both deserts, as they are unique in its way.
WHAT TO PACK FOR TATACOA DESERT
It's incredibly hot in the desert during the day. Don't underestimate the power of the sun, use sunscreen, wear sunglasses, a hat, and bring plenty of water.
Here are 5 essential things you need for Tatacoa Desert.
Sneakers | Long day walking around the desert can be challenging, wear comfy shoes to prevent blisters.
Hydration Pack | Water is the most important resource in the desert. Stay hydrated.
Telescope | Tatacoa desert has perfect conditions for stargazing and you'll have a fantastic opportunity to see the stars without any ligh pollution. This portable travel telescope is also great for beginners.
Headlamp | You need a torch for Tatacoa Desert. We stayed in guesthouse about 10 minutes from the main road, and there was no street light along the way (it's not even on the main road). Also, red light mode provides visibility while your eyes are dark-adapted when you are stargazing.
Sunscreen | Sunscreen with SPF 50+ should be strong enough.
We've also written an in-depth South America packing list where you will find more useful tips and advice on what to pack.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE TATACOA DESERT
Are you looking for accommodation in the desert? You have two options.
Either make a booking right in the desert in one of the accommodations along the main road, or for a more luxurious experience, you have to stay in Villavieja, a bigger town, that is only about 15 minutes' drive away.
We've handpicked the best hotels in both locations for every type of traveler.
Budget | Qji Glamping Biohotel - Inexpensive accommodation offers a perfect location just across Astronomical Observatory. The vibe here is very authentic, the same as units. This property has its own restaurant, and also a pool.
Mid-range | Payande - Tatacoa - Nice and clean rooms, perfect location, swimming pool, and staff that will gladly help you with arranging a tour around Tatacoa.
Luxury | La Casa del Angel Hotel - If you want a touch of luxury, you have to stay in the town of Villavieja, where are hotels that offer comfort, but for a very reasonable price. This hotel features a swimming pool, tasty breakfast, and great accessibility to the desert.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
