Best Things to Do in Chaiten, Chile
Read our travel guide on the best things to do in Chaiten in Chilean Patagonia, including tips on best hikes, when to go, what to pack, how to get, or where to stay.
Chaiten, home to Pumalin National Park and Corcovado National Park, was the first proper stop on our journey around Patagonia.
After we explored Pucon and Puerto Varas at the edge of Patagonia's northwest border, we ventured south to start our Carretera Austral adventure.
For starters, we took a ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten as we didn't have a car on this trip.
After a relatively calm night-long journey on board a huge metal vessel that carried us safely across the Golfo de Ancud, we emerged into another world.
The world that we dreamed of so much during the long and cold days in Calgary, where we had lived prior to our South America trip, in order to make our wishes possible.
Not much longer after we checked in early in the morning, our curiosity overtook us, and we started to explore the town and its surroundings on foot.
We knew from the paper guidebook that there are some worthwhile things to do in Chaiten and could not wait to experience all the top activities and attractions on our own (and write about it later).
The first steps took us to a local visitor center to buy bus tickets to Puyuhuapi (our next destination) and find some most up-to-date information about the area.
Talking to the locals is one of the best ways to find relevant information.
We soon found out that the bus driver was not feeling well and that the next bus might be canceled, so we would be stuck here for two extra days.
It was sorted out, but it was a reminder of how things work here in Patagonia. Always make sure to have at least a day or two extra, so you can keep your Patagonia itinerary flexible.
So without further ado, here's everything you need to know before visiting Chaiten.
History
Once you start traveling around Patagonia, you will soon start learning about the indigenous Chono people who lived there thousands of years ago, the first modern explorers, German settlers, and other interesting pieces of trivia.
But Chaiten hides a terrifying story that happened not that long ago.
The very recent history of Chaiten will show you that there is one element that shaped this region for millions of years.
The element we should never underestimate — the force of nature.
After 8000 years of being dormant, the Chaiten volcano erupted in 2008. The town with its 4000 residents was evacuated, and the ash plume rose up to 30 kilometers in the next days.
Then the rain arrived, lahars flooded the town and took everything with it. The river couldn't withstand the extreme strain of mud on its banks and changed its course as a result.
The Chaiten volcano eruption was pretty devastating to this settlement, especially its southern sector, and the results are still visible today.
The government talked about the town's relocation and rebuilding in a different location, but the local people refused to move and stayed in the same place they've been living their entire lives.
The rebuild was slow, and it took almost three years before even basic services such as drinking water or electricity were renewed.
The town now survives on tourism, so hopefully, this industry brings something good to this tried area.
Best Things to Do and See in Chaiten
Chaiten is all about nature, outdoor activities, and remoteness. Well, that's what Patagonia is about in general.
And unless you drive from Puerto Montt via Hornopiren to Chaiten, it's for many the starting point of the Carretera Austral road trip.
So what is there to do in Chaiten?
From hiking, biking to fishing, Chaiten offers activities for many active travelers.
Pumalin National Park
Pumalin National Park is known for lush vegetation, great hiking trails, and stunning views. If you're into hiking, then you will love this place.
The fact that's not so known among first-time visitors is hiding in its origin.
This park was founded by Douglas Tompkins (he was the founder of the successful brand North Face), and you can even find the full name in some materials, Douglas Tompkins Pumalin National Park.
And despite its accessibility, we couldn't get enough of the feeling that it's not crowded at all.
We are not afraid to say that when looking for an off-the-beaten place in the Chilean Patagonia, you can find it right here at the start of the Carretera Austral.
Entrance
There are two points of entry to Pumalin National Park.
We'll talk about the west one that will take you to Chaiten Volcano down below, so here we're going to focus on the southern one.
First, you need to travel to El Amarillo along the Ruta 7 (Carretera Austral), and then turn left onto the gravel road that will take you deeper into the park (there is a big wooden Parque Pumalin entrance sign you can't miss).
As we did not have a car, we took a bus from Chaiten that dropped us off at the park’s border, and then we had to walk for a few kilometers before we reached the trailhead.
On the way back, we had to hitchhike, because there was no bus on schedule at that moment.
Before you go, you might want to check out the three informative boards about the park, or you can head out to the area directly.
There are three interesting hikes in this sector. Sendero Ranita de Darwin, Sendero El Mirador, and Sendero Ventisquero.
Sendero Ranita de Darwin
Sendero Ranita de Darwin is an easy and flat 4-kilometer loop (part of it leads on the access road) that goes through the dense forest and introduces the Pumalin National Park to beginner hikers.
Sendero El Mirador
Sendero El Mirador (full name is Sendero Mirador Glaciar Michinmahuida) is an 8-kilometer loop with an elevation gain of 400 meters, and it's definitely harder than the previous one.
Sendero Ventisquero
Lastly, the 20-kilometer Sendero Ventisquero is the most challenging hike in this part of Pumalin National Park but requires 4WD to get to the trailhead.
If you don't have a car and consider yourself a strong hiker, you could attempt to make all three hikes in one day.
In total, you would hike 41 kilometers with an elevation gain of 700 meters which is definitely doable, but you would need 8-10 hours to complete the hike.
Entrance Fee
By the way, there is no entrance fee to Pumalin National Park.
If you find places such as Torres del Paine too expensive, Pumalin National Park is a great alternative to cut down your travel expenses.
Volcan Chaiten
As we arrived in Patagonia a bit unprepared, we were surprised by the surreal landscape and beauty of Volcan Chaiten.
We must admit that it was not what we expected to find here. One of our first impressions of Patagonia couldn't have been better, as this volcano is truly breathtaking.
Being so close to the active volcano is actually pretty frightening, but the views will energize your legs.
Obviously, you can't climb Chaiten Volcano, but you can hike to the rim of the outer caldera even without a guide.
You can find the trailhead to Sendero Volcan Chaiten or just simply Chaiten Volcano Trail about 24 kilometers north of the town, so you will need to arrange some transport to get there.
If you have a car, then just follow the Carretera Austral towards Hornopiren.
When traveling from Puerto Montt (or Hornopiren), you might want to hike to Chaiten Volcano first before reaching the town to save some time and gas.
Sendero Volcan Chaiten is a 2.5-kilometer in-and-out trail with an elevation gain of 600 meters. It's not the longest hike in Patagonia, but it's pretty steep.
Don't be afraid to make stops along the trail, and don't forget to look back from time to time (even despite the fact that you will walk the same way back).
Without a car, you need to take either a bus or a hitchhike to get there.
Back home, we watched a documentary about the volcano that showed drone footage from the area that revealed to us the scenery we saw with our very own eyes in a completely different perspective.
Our visit only strengthened our admiration and respect for this volcano, and we definitely have this trail among the best hikes in Patagonia.
Corcovado National Park
South of the town, the uniquely shaped Corcovado Volcano can be seen from Chaiten on a clear day.
We were not lucky enough to see it in the three days we spent in Chaiten, but it might be a different story for you.
The volcano lies in Corcovado National Park, which represents one of the best examples of untamed Patagonia.
There is only one small problem with Corcovado National Park. It's almost impossible to access for a regular tourist.
Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho
A recently opened Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho is one of the best (and only) ways to see Corcovado National Park when on a short time or without some sort of guided tour.
This is a 3-kilometer in-and-out trail with an elevation gain of 200 meters, so it's not very challenging, and anyone with a moderate level of fitness can do it.
Make sure to have proper footwear as the trail gets muddy.
It's a nice 2-3 hour walk from the parking lot through the forest to the viewpoint by the river from where you can see the Yelcho Glacier.
But if you are short on time and wondering whether to go here or see the Hanging Glacier in Queulat National Park instead, we would have probably opted for the latter, as the glacier views are better.
On the other hand, there is no entrance fee to Corcovado National Park, unlike other places along the Ruta 7 (including Queulat NP).
You will find the Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho trailhead 58 kilometers southeast of Chaiten directly on the Carretera Austral.
There is a small unmarked parking lot just before you cross the bridge over Rio Yelcho Chico, but it shouldn't be a problem to find it, as it's both on Google Maps and Maps.me.
As you can see, there is not much to do in Corcovado National Park, but we don't see it as a huge disadvantage.
As a result, the park still remains pretty intact and unspoiled, and the local fauna and flora can thrive there.
Hopefully, it will stay this way in the coming years.
Amarillo Hot Springs
Despite what the official Chaiten weather statistics stated, it was quite cold and rainy in Pumalin in those few days we spent there.
So if you arrive into similar weather as we did, you might start looking for a way to warm up your body.
Chile is known for hot springs, and you will find some of them even here on Carretera Austral.
Amarillo Hot Springs is the perfect place to visit in Chaiten on a cold rainy day, but we believe they offer a relaxing experience any time.
You can find Amarillo Hot Springs in the El Amarillo settlement about 29 kilometers east of Chaiten.
It is the same place from where you can get access to hikes mentioned above, the El Mirador Trail or Sendero Ventisquero.
Once you cross the Rio Amarillo, turn onto Las Termas Road (W-887) and follow it for another four and a half kilometers.
The entrance fee to Termas El Amarillo is 7.000 CPL. If possible, ask about current opening hours in Chaiten before you go.
If you're traveling further south, and looking for more hot springs, don't forget to stop by at Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa.
And by the way, there's a self-service gas station next to the small grocery store on the left side right after you enter the village.
It's the last one on the way to Pyuhuapi, or you can fill up the gas tank in Chaiten to be safe in case it's out of service.
When to Go
From our own experience, the best time to visit Chaiten is summer. Even during this time of the year, it was relatively cold, windy, and rained all three days we spent there.
Fortunately, with some breaks, so we could enjoy even some sun.
The period from December to March brings the best weather, longest daylight, and warmest days.
The average temperature is 17 Celsius, but again, the rain and wind made the 'feels like' temperature lower.
June to August are the rainiest and coldest months in Chaiten, and you need to come prepared. In general, winter is not the best time to visit Patagonia as some places might be closed.
Where to Stay
Chaiten is a relatively small town, and the accommodation choice is not very wide. Despite this fact, it's not difficult to find a decent room in the town.
However, the prices are higher than usual, and if this is your first proper stop in Patagonia, you might find that you're exactly not getting the same value for your money as in other Chilean places.
Paying more for less is common in Patagonia due to the remoteness of this region.
But the lack of good or cheap accommodation is outweighed by the jaw-dropping scenery that surrounds you wherever you go.
Here is our choice of the best hotels in Chaiten.
Budget | Paraiso Patagonico - Nice and cozy accommodation with friendly hosts, Paraiso Patagonico, is a great place to start or end your Carretera Austral trip. It has one of the best locations in the town, so it's a short walk to tourist places of interest. This property also features a shared kitchen and lounge and free WiFi.
Mid-range | Posada de Expediciones Kahuel - If you are looking for a peaceful place to stay that's not located in the town but still within a short driving range, then consider staying at Posada de Expediciones Kahuel. Rooms are homey and clean, and breakfast is included. You can also walk to the private beach in your free time. The WiFi is slow, but that might be a plus for some travelers who want to disconnect from the outside world. The ferry terminal is 3 kilometers from here (the town is 4 kilometers away), so you can even consider walking there.
Luxury | Yelcho en la Patagonia - Located 51 kilometers south of Chaiten, Yelcho en la Patagonia offers the best location for exploring the Corcovado National Park. The Alpine-style house sitting on the shore of Yelcho Lake features heated rooms with a kitchenette and hard-to-beat location. A car is a must-have in this case.
Camping
There are few camping options directly in Chaiten, but they're not something to write home about.
As Chaiten is the arrival/departure point for many travelers, the campsites can be quite full during some days in peak season while offering inadequate facilities.
We would probably stay outside the town (or in the town, but in the hostel) if we were you. Either way, don't forget to see the place first before you pay for it.
One of the best campsites in Pumalin National Park is basic Ventisquero Camping, located about 8 kilometers north of the El Amarillo on Carretera Austral.
By the way, in this campground, Sendero Ventisquero starts.
Keep in mind that the road is unpaved, and you need a four-wheel drive to get there.
You can also find three other places - Camping Vuelta del Rio, Camping Carlos Cuevas, or Camping Grande.
Despite their names, they usually serve only as day-use picnic areas, and camping is not allowed there.
If you prefer a bit more basic experience or if you want to get closer to nature, there are plenty of small campgrounds along the Carretera Austral.
North of town, you can find, for example, Lago Blanco Campground, Lago Negro Campground, or Chaiten Eco Camping, among others.
If you plan on staying in Hornopiren, there are plenty of campgrounds as well.
South of the town, campsites such as Camping Reldehue or Camping Kurruleufu can be found.
How to Get to Chaiten
Getting to Chaiten is relatively easy when you know what to expect. You have a few choices here, and we'll try to outline all of them, so you can pick whichever suits you the best.
Personally, we traveled on a budget, so we used the combination of ferry, hitchhiking, and public transport in Patagonia.
This combination is more suitable for long term travelers who have more time.
Otherwise, we believe it's worth renting a car for your road trip.
Ferry
The Puerto Montt to Chaiten ferry ticket costs 17.820 CLP ($22), and the journey takes about 9 hours. Naviera Austral runs ferries between these two towns every day except for Sundays.
It usually departs either at 10-11 PM or 11 AM, depending on the day.
They also have a website in English, though the ticket reservation process is in Spanish.
However, it's quite easy and straightforward, and if you're not sure, use some online translator that will help you in the process.
Taking a ferry from Puerto Montt directly to Chaiten is the option we opted for on our trip.
The seats on the ferry were somewhat comfortable and allowed us to get some sleep during the night.
In our case, the ride was calm, but if the sea gets choppy, you might want to bring some sea sickness pills just in case.
Car
The easiest way to get around Patagonia is definitely by rental car, but Chaiten is a special case. When arriving from Puerto Montt, you have two options here. Drive the whole stretch or take a ferry.
Well, you will need to take a ferry either way and here's why.
You might think that driving is a no-brainer here, but the important thing you need to understand first is that the road is not covering the entire stretch.
In order to get from Puerto Montt to Chaiten (or vice versa), you have to take three ferries. In La Arean, Cholgo, and Pillan.
This slight inconvenience makes the trip quite an adventure, but it might discourage some travelers from undergoing the journey.
Or you can take the direct ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten we've talked about in the section above and skip this part entirely.
The ferry vehicle ticket costs an additional 117.400 CLP ($140).
The issue when not taking the direct ferry is hidden in detail. Each ferry has a different timetable, the longer one departs only twice a day, so this can cause some problems.
If you don't plan the trip carefully, you might end up making an unplanned stop (for example, in Hornopiren) and consequently lose a valuable day from your itinerary.
Bus
If you travel without your own transport, you can consider taking a bus from Puerto Montt to Chaiten. The bus takes about 9 hours, and the ride is quite scenic.
If you are hesitating between the bus and ferry, you might ask yourself whether you want to travel at night or during the day.
Obviously, the bus runs during the day, so you can also see the scenery along the way. Unlike the ferry, unless when you take the only one that leaves the port in the morning.
Buses run between Chaiten and Puyuhuapi not very frequently.
There are usually two to three buses per week in the high season, so you need to plan your trip more carefully.
You can also consider taking a bus from Chaiten to La Junta and another bus from La Junta to Puyuhuapi, but make sure that the connection makes sense.
Plane
Chaiten airport was destroyed by the volcano eruption in 2008. Nuevo Chaiten Airport was built about 20 kilometers northwest of the town and should operate some flights every day.
Pewen Chile and Aerocord should have some flights to Chaiten, but you need to check the current timetables before you go.
How to Get Around
Chaiten is a very compact town, so it's easy to get around on foot. However, if you want to see Chaiten Volcano or hike the El Mirador Trail, the only way to get to the trailhead is by car.
So you need to have your own rental car, hitchhike, or arrange private transport (which means that you usually go on a tour).
All options are pretty viable, some are better and more convenient than others, and only you can figure out what suits you the best.
One of the things you need to know about Patagonia is that getting between the towns or villages without your own transport is not difficult.
The hard part is to get to the places of your interest that are located outside these settlements. That's the part when the rental car comes in handy.
The ferry terminal in Chaiten is located about a kilometer west of the town, and you can easily reach its center in about 10 minutes walk.
There is a practical sidewalk you can use in order not to walk on the road, and while the traffic is not heavy in this area, these little details are quite convenient.
Is Chaiten Safe to Visit?
We already talked about the Chaiten Volcano disaster in this blog post. Natural catastrophes are hard to predict and not something you can control.
Otherwise, you've arrived in Patagonia and while staying safe in South America is not always easy, it's different here.
Like other places along the Carretera Austral, such as Rio Tranquilo or Villa O'Higgins, Chaiten is safe to visit.
While the crime is almost non-existent here, we still recommend you to use common sense while traveling. But most importantly, be prepared for your outdoor adventures.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
What to Pack
When you go hiking in the mountains, make sure to have the proper gear.
Hiking boots and a rain jacket are a must-have. It's often cold here, and it rains a lot, so it might be time to invest in some better outdoor clothing.
You can also consider bringing trekking poles and rain pants if you plan on doing a lot of hikes.
We always bring a rain poncho with us when hiking in the mountains, but that's up to your preferences.
A warm down jacket helps a lot when you make a stop on your hikes, but quite often even in your accommodation.
Good hiking gear will come in handy here in Carretera Austral, but in this entire region, especially if you plan to travel all the way down to El Chalten, Torres del Paine, or even Ushuaia.
And don't forget to bring your travel mirrorless camera or smartphone with you.
Services
The Copec gas station in Chaiten is located directly on the main road at the waterfront, so you can't miss it.
The main strip, together with the parallel street right next to it, is also an area where you'll find some accommodations, restaurants, grocery stores, or a local travel agency.
Chaiten is also the first place on Carretera Austral, where you will realize for the first time that the prices went up.
While the grocery stores are well-stocked on dry food, you won't have much luck finding fresh vegetables or fruits for reasonable prices.
Before you leave Puerto Montt, you can stock up on food and supplies in local larger grocery stores such as Lider o Jumbo to save some money.
The typical dish in this region is the lamb, so don't be afraid to try it.
Some restaurants specialize in seafood, so you might want to try a local fish, though (unlike, for example, Valparaiso near Santiago) the cuisine is not much to talk about.
Hotels usually provide free internet in Chaiten, but don't expect some high speeds.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
