2-Week Annapurna Circuit Trek Itinerary
Annapurna Circuit is one of the best multi-day hikes in the Himalayas, Nepal. If you plan your trip, read our two-week Annapurna Circuit Trek itinerary first. This travel guide includes a day-by-day itinerary, Tilicho Lake detour, crossing Thorong La, hiking, safety and acclimatization tips, what to expect, trail description.
Trekking the classic Annapurna Circuit in Nepal for two weeks was one of the most incredible adventures we’ve ever done.
Nepal is one of the most amazing countries in the world, known for its traditional way of life, friendly locals, but most importantly, for its incredible mountains. The country is home to some of the highest peaks, and it became a mecca for climbers and common active travelers who are drawn to Nepal to see 8000 meters high mountains with their own eyes.
The feeling when you walk on a narrow trail surrounded by snow-capped giants is indescribable. It is the moment when you realize how insignificant we as humankind are and how powerful nature is.
Many trails in Nepal require mountaineering skills, but a plenty of them are accessible even for hikers.
And one of the most popular ones is Annapurna Circuit Trek. This multi-day hike and ultimate tramping adventure have become popular for many reasons, but one of them is that every traveler can adjust the itinerary according to travel style, level of fitness, and budget.
That's being said, it is not possible to fool mountains, so you cannot avoid climbing up to the highest point on the trail Thorong La Pass the same as you can never know what weather conditions await you in the mountains.
Although it might seem that planning an Annapurna Circuit itinerary is an easy task, there are several things you need to know.
The whole loop is 260 kilometers long, from Besisahar to Nayapul, but many travelers nowadays hike the shorter version of Annapurna Circuit because of the ongoing road construction. We did the same as we were not somehow excited to walk on the dusty road and finished the trek in Jomsom.
Still, it took us two weeks to finish Annapurna Circuit, and in this travel guide, we want to share our day-by-day itinerary with you.
ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT ITINERARY
There are several ways to plan an Annapurna Circuit itinerary, but if there's one thing no one can plan, it is the weather. Weather in the mountains is unpredictable, so the first advice we can give you is to have a backup plan.
Of course, based on data from the past years, you can figure out what is the best time to hike the Annapurna Circuit, but it can happen that Thorong La Pass won't be passable because of landslides or heavy snowfall.
When speaking about unpredictable situations, no one can also know how your body will react to the altitude. There's also a small percentage of travelers who must turn around because of altitude sickness.
That's why we have designed this Annapurna Circuit itinerary to maximize your safety.
We will start in Besisahar that is located in a sub-tropical zone lower than 800 meters, and make our way slowly to the pass at 5416 meters, with several acclimatization stops and one-day trips.
Below we share the exact itinerary we followed, and before we dive into it, here's what led us to the decision to take the route from Besisahar to Jomsom.
ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT HIKING DIRECTION
Annapurna Circuit has changed during the past decade. Although the beauty did not go away, the path became very popular and more accessible, which has consequences that could affect your final travel itinerary.
First of all, you need to decide whether to hike clockwise or anticlockwise.
We had opted for the latter alternative for several reasons. The trail from Besisahar climbs gradually; the views get better every day, and the acclimatization is very natural.
You could say that it is very similar to the other direction, when you start in Pokhara or, subsequently, in Nayapul. Yes, you'll also be gaining elevation.
But we found two disadvantages that did not persuade us to go this way. If you take the direction from Nayapul, the last traditional settlement before you cross Thorong La Pass is Ranipauwa (also called Muktinath because of the temple) that sits 3800 meters above sea level.
On the other hand, when we hiked from Besisahar, our base for the night before crossing the saddle was Thorong Pedi, 4540 meters above sea level. The ascend is a bit easier, but it is also safer as you will sleep much higher.
Another reason why we have opted for the anticlockwise direction was road construction. It is no secret that mountain villages want to be connected with the outside world, and the building infrastructure plays an important role here.
Based on our experience, the part between Besisahar and Thorong La Pass was much less developed than the one between Pokhara and Ranipauwa.
Of course, this can change in the span of a few years, but we had an absolutely tranquil experience hiking from Besisahar to Ranipauwa. Then we walked one day from Ranipauwa to Kagbeni and were quite annoyed by the fact we had to walk on the dusty roads.
We know that the trail is developing every year, and ACAP works hard to introduce new detours so hikers can avoid the road, but we had absolutely no motivation to walk this part of the loop at the time of our visit.
Sure, we believe there are still lovely views and authentic villages, and our opinion might be a bit biased because we've already seen the highlight, but we certainly liked the other part of the valley better.
This is why we chose for our Annapurna Circuit itinerary the direction from Besisahar, and why we also decided to finish the trek in Jomsom instead of Nayapul.
HOW MANY DAYS FOR ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT
One of the most common question about this trek is how many days should you plan for the Annapurna Circuit?
That’s not that easy to answer, as it all depends on your starting and finishing point, the same as your pace, the number of detours, etc.
In general, you'll be hiking anything between 170 and 260 kilometers. Our route described below, which includes the side trip to Tilicho Lake, was 185 kilometers long.
Because it is nowadays possible to travel to Manang by jeep, this trick can significantly shorten your time on the road.
On the other hand, you would be missing a lot as Annapurna Circuit is not only about ticking one of the most popular hikes in the world off the list, but it is, most importantly, about the experience.
Secondly, skipping the first few days is not the best idea because of the gradual acclimatization.
It took us 14 days to get from Besisahar to Ranipauwa (Muktinath) with a side trip to Tilicho Lake.
Depending on your travel itinerary, your Annapurna Circuit can take you anything between ten days and three weeks if you decide to walk the whole loop.
Feel free to get inspired by our Annapurna Circuit itinerary and adjust it to your level of fitness, skills, travel style, the number of days off you have.
If you decided to hike the Annapurna in the opposite direction, we recommend you to start in lower elevation for safe acclimation, and once you get to Jomsom (or Kagbeni), read our travel guide, only in reverse order.
DAY 0: THE DAY BEFORE STARTING ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT
We landed in Kathmandu about 8 hours delayed due to a flooded runway in Dubai, where we had to change the plane, and on top of that, this plane had a mechanical issue.
No matter what's your travel story, we believe it makes sense to spend the night before starting the Annapurna Circuit in Kathmandu.
This is the capital city, which will be very likely your first destination in Nepal.
Although it is possible to start with sightseeing, we decided to leave this activity for the last days. Instead, we had to focus on more crucial things, such as arranging Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits.
Every hiker needs to obtain these permits - in Kathmandu; you must go to the Nepal Tourism Board office, fill a few forms, provide the staff with four passport photos, pay a fee, and in return, you'll get your TIMS and ACAP cards.
Then, it is time to prepare for the hike mentally.
Book a comfortable room, withdraw money from ATM as cash is the king in the mountains (there's one more ATM in Manang along the way), and if you forgot something, Kathmandu's Thamel district is the place where to go shopping for food and outdoor equipment.
If you want to spend more time there first, read our blog post Top Places to Visit in Kathmandu.
ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU
If you travel individually, Kathmandu is one of the few places where you can book accommodation ahead of time because, at the moment, guesthouses along Annapurna Circuit work on a first-come, first-served basis.
Nevertheless, to say that you should not expect luxury.
This is the reason why you should really enjoy your night in Kathmandu. The most popular district in Kathmandu among all types of travelers is Thamel, where you'll find everything from budget hostels to luxurious oasis.
We've handpicked the best three hotels in Kathmandu for every budget.
Budget | Hotel Dali Nepal - If you look for cheap accommodation, this hostel might be exactly what you want. The rooms are clean, and the service for the price is perfect.
Mid-range | Kathmandu Grand Hotel - Great value for money, perfect location, clean rooms, and tasty buffet breakfast is worth it.
Luxury | Baber Mahal Vilas - This hotel is a real luxury in the very heart of Kathmandu. If you want to disconnect from the outside busy streets, check out the rooms' photos - they look stunning.
DAY 1: KATHMANDU - BESISAHAR - BHULBHULE
As we did not want to stay in Kathmandu before the trek for too long, we decided to take a bus to Annapurna Circuit's trailhead on the very next day. For our purposes here in this itinerary, we call it a day one, which is also the beginning of our adventure.
As getting from Kathmandu to Besisahar by bus is quite time-consuming, it is wise to start as early as possible.
There are several ways how to get to Besisahar.
You can hire a private driver, jump on a tourist bus in Thamel, or take regular public transport. As the road is very bumpy and takes time no matter which type of transport you opt for, we decided to go with the cheapest option, public bus.
The bus leaves from Gongabu Bus Park, and although we did not know the timetable, it paid off to arrive before 7 AM as the bus was leaving in about 30 minutes. The ticket costs anything between 500 and 900 NPR.
There's no other way around it; the bus ride takes six to eight hours, depending on traffic and the number of stops, although the distance is less than 200 kilometers.
After arrival in Besisahar, we decided that there's still enough time to walk to Bhulbhule.
If you arrive in the late afternoon, it is ok to take a rest in Besisahar and start the next day in the morning. Besisahar is the official start of Annapurna Circuit, so do not forget to register at a checkpoint, which is right next to the bus stop.
The hike from Besisahar to Bhulbhule is certainly not jaw-dropping, but retrospectively we look at it a bit differently.
It was very cool to observe the change of flora and landscape from the beginning. Besisahar lies in the sub-tropical zone; everything is green, except for dusty paths.
We walked through the village, crossed the bridge across the Marsyangdi River, passed several rice paddies and scattered houses.
Although this part of the Annapurna Circuit is getting busy too, we walked the marked trail without cars passing by. After some time, we reached the power plant under construction, and we were able to walk through the complex. We guess that nowadays you'll have to walk around.
Bhulbhule is a small settlement with a few guesthouses. As this is your first overnight stay on your travel itinerary, here are a few words and tips about tea houses on Annapurna Circuit.
These simple and basic hostels usually offer a room with blankets, a shower (often not as hot as advertised), and at times even Wi-Fi and the possibility to charge your electronic devices.
The prices differ depending on many factors, but mostly on elevation. The higher you get, the more you pay for the room.
On the other hand, the rooms' price is often waived when you dine in the hotel, which means you'll pay only for breakfast and dinner.
We know that many travelers decide to take a jeep from Besisahar to Bhulbhule or even further - we wanted to stretch our legs and were so excited to start the hike that this idea did not cross our minds at all.
Detailed Guide | Trekking from Besisahar to Chame
Walking Distance | 8 km; 2.5 hours
Altitude | Besisahar: 760 meters; Bhulbhule: 840 meters
DAY 2: BHULBHULE - BAHUNDANDA - JAGAT
As we hiked the Annapurna Circuit at the turn of March and April, the weather in the lowlands was hot and hazy. No worries, if you plan on trekking at the same time as we did, once you get closer to 3000 meters, the haze will disappear.
From Bhulbhule, walk upstream. The trek is well-signposted, but just in case, use Maps.me app (you can use it offline, just download the map before you go).
In the beginning, you'll share the dusty road with cars, but there was almost no traffic. After some time, the trail splits, and you will finally start admiring the wonderful landscape.
The path here climbs to Bahundanda.
First, you'll see rice paddies and terraces, a few waterfalls, but then you'll focus only on the climb as you need to ascend over 400 meters. The steep stairs will take you to the village from where you'll get a wonderful view.
It is time to register here, and if you want, there are stalls with refreshments.
Walk through the village, and eventually, you'll walk through a stone gate, which is very photogenic. The path now follows the valley, and you can see cars on the other side.
Well, we were quite happy walking on the cliff, but we didn’t want to imagine being inside the car as there were no guard rails.
The trail now leads up and down, but we almost did not notice as the views began to be wonderful. There were still no high mountains in sight, but the scenery was incredible.
Later we reached Ghermu, a traditional lunch stop, some travelers even decided to call it a day here, but our today's ultimate point on the itinerary is Jagat.
It took us less than an hour to reach Jagat, and the biggest adventure was that we had to cross the river several times forth and back, but this is something you'll get used to.
We've already mentioned that Annapurna Circuit changes, and not in a good way. On the other hand, ACAP works hard to protect the area and mark the trail for hikers.
There are parts where you have to share the road with cars, but take every opportunity to avoid it anytime you'll see the markings. These paths are sometimes a bit shorter, sometimes longer, usually much steeper, but also more picturesque and worth the effort.
Jagat is an old village, so we found a room and decided to walk around a bit to see the local people's life.
Walking Distance | 18 km; 5 hours
Altitude | Bhulbhule: 840 meters; Bahundanda: 1310 meters; Jagat: 1300 meters
DAY 3: JAGAT - TAL - KARTE - ODAR - BAGARCHAP
The third day on the Annapurna Circuit itinerary is quite long but very rewarding. You have several options to walk on the road, but although it is often a bit more challenging, we recommend walking on the trekking trail, which is well-signposted.
The beginning of the trail goes up and down.
First, we had to descend stairs down only to climb the hill up in a few moments. When we got to the top, we could see a wonderful waterfall on the other side of the valley.
Although we've already started gaining elevation, this part of the Annapurna Circuit still lies under 2000 meters, so the landscape is lush and green.
Then we crossed a football field that was quite unexpected, and it did not take long, and we reached a small village Chamje, a settlement that sits under towering cliffs.
The trail then climbs gradually up, and you will get wonderful views of the river that peacefully makes its way through the valley. It was quite hard to imagine that the whole river bed is filled with thundering water when it rains.
After a while, we crossed the river and were soon welcomed by a gate that announced we entered the Manang District. For us, the word Manang meant only one thing, we are getting nearer the mountains, so we were super-excited to see what comes next.
Once you reach Tal village, cross the river, and walk in the direction of Karte village. Here you have two options. Either cross the river again and walk through Karte or stay on the same side and carry on.
We stuck to the left bank and bypassed the village this time. The road now leads to Bagarchap, our final destination for the day, but we decided to take a short detour to Odar.
Just before you get to the turnoff to Odar, you will walk via Dharapani village, where's a checkpoint. The detour is not exactly easy as you will gain 200 meters on a short distance, but we found visiting Odar well worth it.
Stepping to Odar was like stepping back in time.
The village is off the main trail, so it sees only a few visitors, and you will hardly find a more magical place on the Annapurna Circuit.
There are only a few houses, but the interaction with locals was amazing. Then, we walked through Odar and joined a trail that led us to Bagarchap, where it is easy to find a guesthouse with a hot shower and electricity.
Once we arrived in Bagarchap, we finally spotted a snow-capped peak looming in the distance, and we could not wait for tomorrow as we knew we would finally get to the mountains.
Although the days were still very hot, the evenings were getting colder, and Bagarchap was the first place we put on our new down jackets.
Walking Distance | 18 km, 5.5 hours
Altitude | Jagat: 1300 meters; Tal: 1700 meters; Karte: 1781 meters; Odar: 2131 meters; Bagarchap: 2059 meters
DAY 4: BAGARCHAP - DANAQUE - TIMANG - CHAME
The fourth day is quite short, so take your time. To be honest, we wanted to walk a bit further that day, but felt very tired, and we believe you'll appreciate a more relaxed day as well.
From Bagarchap, the path leads to Danaque, and although you gain 80 meters, it feels like walking on the flat trail. In Danaque is water stations, so fill your reusable water bottles.
It is quite important to say that reducing your plastic footprint in destinations like Nepal is crucial.
That's why we do not recommend buying single-use plastic bottles.
Instead refill the water at these stations (if they are available), or even a more sustainable decision is to purchase either SteriPen or water bottle with integrated filter that filters water, so you don't have to worry about it at all.
Staying hydrated in the mountains is essential to avoid altitude sickness, so think about your drinking regime before the trip.
Behind Danaque, we left the main road and continued uphill to Timang on a narrow trail. As we were now above 2000 meters line, the morning haze finally disappeared, and we felt like in a movie about Nepal rural life.
We could see the Manaslu range, herds of sheep, and before we reached Chame, we also spotted Annapurna II (7937 meters) for the first time. The views were splendid, we took it slowly, but still, the harsh Himalayan sun took a toll on us, and we could not wait to reach Chame and rest.
We had lunch in Chame, then took a nap, and in the afternoon, we walked around the village. As it is one of the biggest settlements in the valley, the atmosphere was very lively.
Except for admiring the mountains, you can also take a dip in a local hot spring.
Walking Distance | 12 km; 3.5 hours
Altitude | Bagarchap: 2059 meters; Danaque: 2139 meters; Timang: 2578 meters; Chame: 2726 meters
DAY 5: CHAME - BHRATANG - DHUKUR POKHARI - UPPER PISANG
For many travelers, Chame is the place where they start the actual hike. Well, we do not think it is worth it to skip the first four days, but if you do not have enough time, it is definitely an option.
We were actually quite surprised by how many jeeps we heard in the morning. It meant only one thing - many hikers decided to carry on by car to Manang and start the circuit from there.
Honestly, it is a bit reckless because acclimatization is absolutely essential, and if you don’t have any previous experience with high altitudes, you might find out soon that this is a serious thing.
The fifth day on our travel itinerary, which will take us from Chame to Upper Pisang, is also among the most beautiful ones.
In Chame, we crossed the river and walked around painted mandalas, and all of a sudden, we were on the trail that led us through the forest.
After about two hours, we arrived in Bhratang that surprised us with an extensive apple orchard. We bought here delicious apples and learned that this area is famous for growing apples - this is why you can, in many tea houses, order apple pies or other sweets.
Then we continued on the road carved into the mountain high above the river, which was quite scary, so we hurriedly overcame this passage.
Behind the passage was an intersection where we could decide where to go - we recommend asking locals about the latest information. The thing is that this area is prone to landslides, and the official trail changes depending on the current situation.
We used the upper trail, which means we did not have to cross the river this time.
After some time, we carried on, and Paungda Danda alias Mountain to Heaven or the Great Wall of Pisang, revealed in front of our eyes. The rock barrier rises 1500 meters above the river bed and is exceptional because its western side is completely smooth.
This mountain is not only one of the most photogenic places on today's itinerary, but it also has a spiritual context as local people believe that after a person dies, the soul climbs up the wall.
Past Great Wall, the trail leads uphill via pine forest to Dhukur Pokhari, where the road splits - you can continue either to Lower or Upper Pisang; we chose the latter option.
From here, it was not that far to Upper Pisang, but the final climb was quite challenging. You can also decide to stay in Lower Pisang, but the views from the higher village are much more impressive. Also staying in Upper Pisang helps with acclimatization.
Upper Pisang offers superb views of Annapurna II and Pisang Peak, and when you climb above the village, you can explore two gompas and remnants of an old fort where it is easy to spend the rest of the day.
The village was heavily damaged during the 2015 earthquake, but life is slowly getting back to normal.
Detailed Guide | Trekking from Chame to Manang
Walking distance | 15 km; 6 hours
Altitude | Chame: 2726 meters; Bhratang: 2932 meters; Dhukur Pokhari: 3211 meters; Upper Pisang: 3310 meters
DAY 6: UPPER PISANG - GHYARU - NGAWAL - JULU - BRAGA - MANANG
The trail that leads from Upper Pisang to Braga or Manang offers some of the most iconic views on our Annapurna Circuit itinerary. Before we left Upper Pisang in the morning, we visited a small building with several hundred years old prayer wheel, and then we left the village.
Right at the beginning, you have two options on how to get to Braga and, by extension, to Manang.
The lower trail is faster and less demanding, the upper trail is more challenging but will take you higher to the mountains, to the splendid views.
Evaluate how you feel, and once again, the upper trail helps with acclimatization.
We felt good, so it is obvious that we have opted for the upper trail as mountain views were exactly the reason why we traveled to Nepal. The trail from Upper Pisang to Ghyaru village leads via a series of switchbacks, and as you will gain around 400 meters, be prepared for a grueling climb.
The path from Ghyaru to Ngawal offers first glimpses of Annapurna III, 7555 meters high giant in the Annapurna Range.
If the weather plays along, make sure you have a compact travel camera around your neck all the time because the landscape in this part of the Himalayas mountains is out of this world. This section leads through an abandoned countryside, without cars, so enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.
Then you'll cross a meadow and, in no time, get to Julu village, which looks abandoned.
Soon you will reach a dirt road that leads to Manang. Manang is the center of the district, and it is one of the most popular towns on the Annapurna Circuit for many reasons.
One of them is that it is accessible from the lowlands by jeep, and travelers find here shops with outdoor clothes, grocery stores, a doctor's office, post, ATM, or even a cinema.
Another reason to stay in Manang is acclimatization.
The town sits just above the 3500 meters line, and it is recommended to spend here at least one night, two nights are definitely better.
We decided to stay 2 kilometers before Manang, in Braga, which is a smaller village, as we wanted to be away from crowds.
Feel free to carry on to Manang if you want to be in the real heart of this hikers' village. If you decide to continue to Manang, make sure you visit the monastery in Braga; hopefully, it will be open.
Walking Distance | 18 km; 6 hours
Altitude | Upper Pisang: 3310 meters; Ghyaru: 3730 meters; Ngawal: 3660 meters; Braga: 3439 meters
DAY 7: PRAKEN GOMPA - GANGAPURNA LAKE - ACCLIMATIZATION DAY
As we've already mentioned, Manang is the traditional stop on every Annapurna Circuit hiking itinerary because it is the place when it comes to the crunch.
You might start feeling mild symptoms of altitude sickness, and it is absolutely essential to spend in this area some time to acclimatize.
Although it is possible to take a rest, breathe the fresh air, and let the altitude to do the magic, there are actually many things to do in Manang, and it would be a shame to spend all your time in a hotel room.
Of course, make sure to walk around Manang, drink coffee, eat fresh pastries, and admire the architecture, but we decided to take a few one-day trips.
First of all, we did not take the acclimatization lightly, and secondly, we wanted to get as much as possible from Manang's beautiful surroundings.
Our first steps led to Praken Gompa, an isolated Buddhist structure above Manang, at 3945 meters above sea level.
The hike was not that hard; it was rather steady, and the views of Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Gangapurna, and Tarke Kang were well worth the effort.
As the hike to Praken Gompa did not take us that long, we decided to visit one more sight in Manang, Gangapurna Lake.
It is an easy walk from the town's center, and we were rewarded by the views of the insanely blue lake that was created in the process of melting the Gangapurna Glacier above.
These two trips took us half-day, but then we started to feel a mild headache, so we strolled around Manang, and then decided to call it a day early and walked back to our hotel.
We took a short nap and then spent the rest of the evening in a restaurant, where we ordered Dal Bhat (it is one of the traditional meals you must try in Nepal), drank local buckthorn juice, and just relaxed.
Detailed Guide | Acclimatization Day Trips in Manang
Walking Distance | 9 km; 4 hours
Altitude | Manang: 3519 meters, Praken Gompa: 3945 meters
DAY 8: ICE LAKE - ACCLIMATIZATION DAY
If the first acclimatization trip took us close to the 4000 meters line, today's detour would take us to a whole new level. The most popular day-trip in Manang will take you to Ice Lake, which sits 4620 meters above sea level.
It is recommended to leave this hike for your second day to make sure your body handles the acclimatization well.
The climb from Manang (we think it is better to start in Braga as the ascend is more gradual) takes about 4 hours (depending on your pace), and you will gain more than 1000 meters!
This time we were glad that we did not have to carry our backpacks, but we instead took only our ultralight daypack.
Do not underestimate the weather in Manang, though, and ensure that you pack with you extra layers, a rain jacket, and hat and gloves as it is necessary to protect yourself against the cold wind.
A small energy bar - we bought some delicious apple pies at the local bakery - and water are also a must.
The trail is well-signposted so that you can focus only on your breath. For us, it was actually quite easy to forget about our struggles because the scenery was insane.
We could see Annapurna (8091 meters), part of Manang Valley, and Pisang Peak; you can also see Braga, Manang, and far-right is visible the trail leading to Tilicho Lake.
Once you reach a grassy plateau, you will see a small teahouse, which is opened seasonally, and from here, it does not take that long to Ice Lake.
First, you will reach the lower Ice Lake, but carry on; the main attraction is only a few minutes' from here.
Even though we know that the trail was pretty demanding, gather your strength, walk around the lake, and admire the scenery. The lake was still covered with ice at the beginning of April (this is where probably the name comes from), but it was still stunning.
After some time, make your way back either to Braga or Manang. Out of the large number of activities you can do in the Manang area, we think this one should not be missed.
Walking Distance | 12 km; 7 hours
Altitude | Manang: 3519 meters; Ice Lake: 4620 meters
DAY 9: BRAGA - MANANG - KHANGSAR
From now on, our travel itinerary may differ from others (more straightforward) Annapurna Circuit itineraries. Most of the travel plans have similar stops until Manang, and it usually also take the same amount of time.
The day before we left Braga, we had decided not to carry on directly to Yak Kharka but to make a three-day detour to Tilicho Lake.
Tilicho Lake is known as the highest lake of its size in the world, and we felt that we had enough energy and space on our itinerary to get there.
Retrospectively, we can say this trip was well worth it; we could explore the Annapurna Range more closely and get off the beaten path.
We feel that this decision also helped us a lot with acclimatization. It is wise to keep the final decision at the very last moment. First of all, you cannot know how your body will react to the altitude, and it is also vital to check the weather forecast before you set off.
As we slept in Braga, we walked two kilometers to Manang. We registered ourselves, asked in the information whether the trail to Tilicho Lake is passable, and we were ready to go as we received a positive answer.
Because from 3500 meters, it is not advised to climb more than 300 - 600 meters per day, we decided to take the walk slowly, and the first day of this Tilicho Lake detour was very short.
The route to Khangsar leads high above the Margsyandi River through Khangsar Khola Valley and offers nice views of the water, making its way through.
The water level depends on the time of the year you hike Annapurna Circuit. There was not much water in April, but we could easily imagine that monsoon rains will fill up the water bed quickly and create a mighty river.
As we climbed higher, the massive Great Barriere views were opening up, and we could still see Annapurna II behind us.
After about 45 minutes, we crossed the bridge, and the trail on the other side of the river brought us to Khangsar.
Khangsar is an ancient village with a few houses and a couple of guesthouses and restaurants. We ate lunch here and spent the rest of the day sitting on a porch in front of our room, reading books.
We are fans of paper books, so we had Trekking in Nepal from Lonely Planet and a book we bought in Kathmandu, Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer about the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster.
If you prefer digital books, consider bringing Kindle.
Walking Distance | 8 km; 2 hours
Altitude | Manang: 3519 meters; Khangsar: 3756 meters
DAY 10: KHANGSAR - TILICHO LAKE BASE CAMP
The next day we started the hike to Tilicho Lake Base Camp. It is essential to start as soon as possible for several reasons.
First of all, the trek is challenging, and it can take you anything between four and six hours to finish. Secondly, you will traverse steep scree slopes where it is pretty common that rocks loosen and fall down on the trail.
The heat actually increases the chances of landslides and rockfalls; that's why it is recommended to cross it before the sun gets too high.
The trail from Khangsar led us to Shri Kharka, where the road splits into three. The middle path is the shortest but also the most dangerous one as it intersects steep rubble slopes.
The upper trail is unnecessarily long and challenging, and the lower path is unmarked. We took the middle route, which is also used by locals.
The trail to Tilicho Lake Base Camp was very scenic as we could see Tilicho Peak and Phra Idam, the same as one of the most significant peaks, Khangsar Khang, also known as Rock Noir.
This mountain got the name because of the color - the slopes are so steep that the snow always slides down, so all you can see is the black rock. After about 2.5 hours, we reached the infamous section, and it took us around 30 minutes to get to the other side.
There's nothing you should worry about. Walk steadily, observe the slope above you, use trekking poles to keep balance, and you should be fine. The rocks are slippery, but the quality hiking boots should keep you on the trail.
Once we crossed this part, it did not take long, and we arrived at Tilicho Lake Base Camp.
There are three lodges with very similar equipment, including a solar shower, so choose the one you like the best and take a rest before tomorrow's grueling climb.
Detailed Guide | Trekking from Manang to Tilicho Lake
Walking Distance | 9 km; 5 hours
Altitude | Khangsar: 3756 meters; Tilicho Lake Base Camp: 4140 meters
DAY 11: TILICHO LAKE DAY HIKE
To get to the highlight of this extended version of the Annapurna Circuit itinerary, it is necessary to climb over 800 meters.
Honestly, we did not find the hike that hard, but the weather was unstable for the first time on the circuit. It snowed, so when we were about two thirds up, we decided to turn around and head back for safety reasons.
The path was very slippery and icy, and visibility close to zero. But when we were almost back at the lodge, the weather changed, and we could see patches of blue sky.
Well, we turned around again and climbed to Tilicho Lake for the second time, which was pretty challenging, and in the evening, we could not feel our legs. On the other hand, we were super happy we did it.
The trail to Tilicho Lake is well-marked and zig-zags the landslide area. It was quite monotonous, and as we were getting closer to 5000 meters, Martin had a mild headache.
When we thought of giving it up, we met the only person who endured severe conditions and made it to the lake.
This hiker encouraged us to carry on. He told us now we only have to cross the plateau and reach the lake within 20 minutes. These words gave us much needed energy, so we continued.
Finally, we reached the viewing platform that is officially at 5016 meters, which was the highest point we've ever been to at the time.
We were soaking up the views for about 15 minutes, but then the cold wind became unbearable, and we decided to walk back. The hike back to the hotel was easy as it led downhill all the time, and we could not wait to buy a cup of hot tea.
Not only was the hike to Tilicho Lake very picturesque, but it also gave us the confidence that we should be able to cross Thorong La Pass in the next few days, and we were sure we did maximum in terms of acclimatization.
Walking Distance | 11 km; 6 hours
Altitude | Tilicho Lake Base Camp: 4140 meters; Tilicho Lake: 4920 meters
DAY 12: TILICHO LAKE BASE CAMP - UPPER KHANGSAR - YAK KHARKA
On the twelfth day on our extended itinerary, we return back and join most hikers who did not take the detour and hiked from Manang directly to Yak Kharka.
From Tilicho Base Camp, it is necessary to cross the same narrow and possibly dangerous trail back to Shri Kharka.
As we already knew a bit what to expect, it seemed much easier, and we could focus more on the beauty around us. The trail was almost deserted, so the progress was quite quick.
Right behind Shri Kharka, do not continue back to Khangsar, but turn left on the path leading to Yak Kharka.
Here you must ascend to Upper Khangsar, which is a ghost village in the middle of nowhere.
From Upper Khangsar, we followed a narrow path along a stone wall, and when we got to the edge of the ridge, the trail abruptly turned down. It was an unpleasant surprise that we had to descend about 300 meters of elevation, only to cross a bridge over a small creek and then climb the same height again.
Once we did that, we reached a wider dusty path that led from Manang. If you decided not to take the detour to Tilicho Lake, this is the path you'll follow all the time.
Once we reached a small junction, it did not take long, and we arrived in Yak Kharka. As it started to snow, we paid for the room in the first hostel on the road and asked for a bucket with hot water to take a basic shower.
Then we sat in the restaurant, ate dinner, and nervously looked outside the window and wished the snowfall to cease.
Yak Kharka is a place where you can get wonderful views of Annapurna III and also see herds of yaks - the traditional cattle that live in Nepal on pastures above 3000 meters.
Detailed Guide | Hiking from Tilicho Lake Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Walking Distance | 16 km; 5 hours
Altitude | Tilicho Lake Base Camp: 4140 meters; Upper Khangsar 4120 meters; Yak Kharka: 4020 meters
DAY 13: YAK KHARKA - THORONG PHEDI
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi is a gorgeous only two-hour, almost flat walk. The snow was falling all night and completely changed the scenery.
Although today's hike is not very demanding, it is very important to get to Thorong Pedi early and take a rest before tomorrow's climb over Thorong La Pass. The trail is well-marked, and if you hike in the main season, it makes sense to start early and not worry about hostels being sold out.
As we did the trek in spring, we hoped there would be availability and started just before lunch as there's not much to do in Thorong Pedi and rooms are dark and cold. Thanks to the easy profile, we could enjoy the unbelievable scenery.
As the area is prone to landslides, the official trail may be unpassable, but ACAP works hard to create for hikers safe detours.
There's only one more challenging section just before Thorong Pedi, where loose rocks fall from the hill above. There was a queue of hikers, and when it was our turn, we tried to run/walk fast to the other side. As it turned out, running at 4500 meters is almost impossible.
Nevertheless, we got to the other side safely, soon arrived at Thorong Pedi and checked in almost immediately. Now, we only could look forward to dinner and hope for good weather for the next day.
It is possible to take one more acclimatization trip to High Camp, which is 4850 meters above sea level and is on the way to Thorong La Pass.
We decided to relax as we believed we were well-acclimatized. It is also possible to sleep in the High Camp, but it is not recommended because of the altitude.
Crossing Thorong La Pass is the most anticipated day on the Annapurna Circuit, but it is not worth risking. If the weather forecast is bad, you should wait it out.
Always ask the locals first. The tea house owner was quite chatty and reassured us that the weather should be fine the next day, and we should be able to reach the other side of the valley despite all that snow.
Yes, it can delay your progress, but you should always have a few extra days on your itinerary if the weather does not play along.
Walking Distance | 7 km; 2 hours
Altitude | Yak Kharka: 4020 meters; Thorong Pedi: 4540 meters
Travel Insurance
If you plan your trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, there are several things to consider.
First of all, the trails are challenging, weather can change rapidly, and you'll be hiking at a high altitude - and unfortunately, mishaps happen. Plus, the highest point on Annapurna Circuit is 5416 meters above sea level.
When it comes to travel insurance, we never travel without it. It is not just us who think that travel insurance is important. The Nepalese government requires having insurance.
For your safety, it should cover sports activities and climb above 5000 meters.
Having a travel insurance number is even compulsory when filling out the form in order to get Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits - TIMS and ACAP.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
DAY 14 - THORONG PHEDI - THORONG LA - MUKTINATH - RANIPAUWA
Getting from Thorong Pedi to Ranipauwa via Thorong La Pass is the absolute highlight of Annapurna Circuit and a long-awaited day. And what a day it is.
Expect that the Thorong La hike will take you anything between 6 and 8 hours; you'll gain 1040 meters and then descend 1620 meters, so get your legs ready.
With the challenging day ahead, it pays off to start early in the morning; also, the weather is more stable. 6 AM or even 7 AM is the ideal time to set off; we do not think it is worth it to start earlier (unless the weather forecast indicates it).
We had a quick breakfast and set off. It was still dark, we could see stars above us, but it was so cold that none of us wanted to hold trekking poles. A little piece of advice, bring trekking poles for Annapurna Circuit; they will make your life much easier.
It snowed the night before, but the zig-zag trail was easily visible thanks to locals with mules and early trekkers.
Make sure to have a headtorch with fully charged batteries handy. We worked our way up, and although it was pretty hard, it helped us keep our bodies warm.
After an hour of a strenuous climb, we reached High Camp. Here we used a toilet and took off a few layers.
From now on to the saddle, it was a steady climb that was challenging rather because of the altitude than incline.
The path traverses the canyon back and forth, and approximately 45 minutes later, you'll exceed the 5000 meters zone, which is announced by a small teahouse where you can buy a refreshment.
The views are incredible, but we knew that most travelers could not wait to finally reach the saddle. The altitude was suffocating, we had to stop more often than usual, and we were glad we saved a few energy bars for the final push.
Getting to Thorong La is a bit tricky because the hill has a few false summits, but we reached the pass after about 4 hours. The feeling is hard to describe.
After two weeks we had left Besisahar; we made it to Thorong La Pass.
If you follow our itinerary, you can see that it was doable within fourteen days, even with several acclimatization trips.
Take your time, ask a fellow traveler to take an obligatory photo of yourself in front of the information board and prayer flags, and enjoy the views of Great Barrier Ridge, Kali Gandaki Valley, or Chulu West peak.
It is also possible to buy tea here in the season! Unfortunately, hard work is not done yet.
We actually found the descend harder than ascending. We were glad we had trekking poles, but still, we were sliding down the slope with difficulties. If you have bad knees, take it slowly.
After two hours that felt like an eternity, we made it to a small settlement Chabarbu, where we had lunch.
From here, it is less than an hour walk on the almost flat path to Muktinath Temple, which is one of the highest temples in the world.
We could find mentions about this temple in Herzog's book, where he describes his adventure of conquering Annapurna, the first 8000 meters high peak climbed by a man and found it cool we visited the same place as famous mountaineers.
Once we passed the temple, we walked only for a few minutes and arrived in Ranipauwa, our ultimate destination. Ranipauwa is a place where most of the trekkers finish the Annapurna Circuit, so the mood is uplifted.
We walked around, bought a few souvenirs, and then, for the very first time, did not order Dal Bhat for dinner, but we went for veggie burgers. Well, one of us had even two. It is necessary to say; we felt we deserved them.
It does not make sense to go any further after such a demanding day, so stay in Ranipauwa for the night and think about your next move.
Detailed Guide | Crossing the Thorong La Pass
Walking Distance | 14 km; 7 hours
Altitude | Thorong Pedi: 4540 meters; Thorong La Pass: 5416 meters; Muktinath: 3800 meters; Ranipauwa: 3700 meters
DAY 15 : RANIPAUWA - KAGBENI - JOMSOM
For us was day fifteen, the last day on our itinerary, but you can continue for a few more days to Nayapul, but we did not find this part of the trail that attractive.
Most of the hikers take jeeps from Ranipauwa back to the civilization, either to Pokhara or Kathmandu, but we decided to walk a bit longer and see how it goes.
Unfortunately, due to road construction, we only made it to Kagbeni (worth exploring) as the road was incredibly dusty.
The number of cars passing by ruined our mood to continue.
It is possible that ACAP built new trails avoiding the main road, but at the time of our visit, it was just us walking this stretch, and although the views were still interesting, it was nothing to write home about.
We were still quite tired from yesterday's hike, so even though the trail led downhill, it took us quite a while.
Kagbeni is a pretty village, so we walked around and then decided to take a jeep to Jomsom, from where we got the next day to Pokhara.
Detailed Guide | Trekking from Ranipauwa to Jomsom
Walking Distance | 10 km; 3 hours
Altitude | Ranipauwa: 3700 meters; Kagbeni: 2804 meters; Jomsom: 2743 meters
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Thank you for reading our Annapurna Circuit itinerary. It was the exact, tried, and tested schedule we followed, so feel free to use it for your own travel plans.
What to do after you finish the Annapurna Circuit?
In case you still have time, we recommend you to visit Pokhara. We spent three amazing days in Pokhara and enjoyed most of the best things to do that are in the city available.
Then we moved to Kathmandu for the rest of our stay. The capital city of Nepal is also worth time as it also offers many top sights and attractions. Make sure to read our Best Things to Do in Kathmandu article.
ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT: INDEPENDENTLY VS WITH A TOUR
You might be wondering whether it is better to hike Annapurna Circuit independently or with a guide. Well, we do not think it is necessary to have a guide in terms of directions.
The whole circuit is well-signposted, so if you prefer being alone, we are confident it is worth it even if you are a complete newbie. Of course, it is the case of hiking in the main season.
If you want to do the trek in the winter, we suggest hiring a guide for your safety unless you are experienced.
On the other hand, if you prefer to have everything arranged in advance - food, accommodation, and most importantly, the itinerary - the tour is always an option.
You can decide the same as individual travelers if you prefer the classic Annapurna Circuit or the Annapurna Circuit with a detour to Tilicho Lake.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
