Annapurna Circuit: Trekking from Ranipauwa to Jomsom
For the majority of hikers, Annapurna Circuit Trek ends (or starts) at Jomsom. This travel guide features a walk from Ranipauwa (home to Muktinath temple) to Jomsom with a quick stop at Kagbeni village. Includes tips on getting from Jomsom to Pokhara by jeep or bus.
The Ranipauwa village (often mistakenly called Muktinath because of the Muktinath Temple) lies 3710 meters above sea level in Mustang District and is a significant hub for both hikers and believers.
If you trek the Annapurna Circuit counterclockwise, this will probably be the first village where you'll stay after crossing Thorong La pass.
When approaching the settlement, the first thing we could see was the sacred Muktinath Temple, very well known for both Hindus and Buddhists who pilgrim long distances to get to this religious site (that's the reason why Ranipauwa village is often called Muktinath, same as the temple).
The next thing we couldn't overlook was a snow-capped peak of the 7th world's highest mountain Dhaulagiri (8167 m), towering above the Kali Gandaki Gorge.
Even though we were quite exhausted after crossing the saddle, shortly after we accommodated ourselves in a small hotel, we went to look around Ranipauwa.
The small village is a mix of old rural life with the background consisting of snow-covered peaks, cows and horses wandering around, and bustling constructions of new hotels and guesthouses.
Apart from guesthouses, restaurants, small shops, and street vendors (we couldn't resist buying a simple scarf), there is not much to do, which we did not mind at all. Our main goal was to sleep, rest, and eat.
When we came back, the hotel experienced an electricity shortage (this is common in Ranipauwa).
Sometimes it takes days to get the power back on, but it started to work again later in the evening, and we could enjoy dinner in the well-lit dining room and didn't have to use our headtorches. With the power back on, the mood was uplifted, and everyone felt relaxed.
For us was Ranipauwa, the last stop on our Annapurna Circuit itinerary. But it can be just the beginning for you.
Ranipauwa is well-accessible by cars (the road is under construction).
Although we do not recommend starting the hike straightaway because you would skip the important acclimatization part, we know that travelers pressed for time are starting to use this clock-wise direction more often.
DAY BY DAY ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREK GUIDE
Part 1: Besisahar to Chame
Part 2: Chame to Manang
Part 3: Acclimatization in Manang Area
Part 4: Tilicho Lake Side Trip
Part 5: Tilicho Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Part 6: Crossing the Thorong La Pass
Part 7: Ranipauwa to Jomsom
RANIPAUWA (MUKTINATH) TO KAGBENI
Although the majority of hikers end the trek here, we wanted to try to carry on. Despite our tired feet, we put on our backpacks again the next day and continued down the road in the morning.
We were not sure where the trail would take us as we could hear rumors that this part of the traditional trek is pretty much destroyed because of the road construction.
We didn't meet anyone who would continue the Annapurna Circuit from Muktinath, but we were soon about to find out why.
The path led us down, and we recognized Jharkot with its typical red Gompa situated on the hill.
The scenery was nice-looking, and Muktinath Valley's landscape was different again, but the dusty trail in combination with the traffic and road construction made the walk unbearable.
After what seemed like an eternity, we arrived in Kagbeni, a medieval-looking settlement in Lower Mustang strongly influenced by Tibetan culture.
We walked around the village for a while and tried to decide what's our best option.
Because we took a three-day-long detour to Tilicho Lake, we did not have enough time to finish the whole circuit anyway, plus we were not in the mood to continue on the extremely dusty road, so we asked in the ACAP office when the next bus goes to Jomsom.
The lady told us there was a morning bus to Jomsom and there might be another one in the evening, but added quickly "maybe not".
She was accommodating, but despite all her effort and immensely useful information she provided us with, we were not any smarter, so we went to the bus station and asked a drowsing older man how to get to Jomsom.
He told us to wait a moment, and in five minutes, we were sitting in a jeep and heading to Jomsom.
It is also possible to stay in Kagbeni in a hotel called RedHouse Lodge which you can book in advance.
We found the village very atmospheric, and hadn't we been tired after all day walking in the dust; we would have probably stayed.
Kagbeni is also a starting point for exploring this side of the valley, so you can extend your Annapurna adventure and start the hike here.
Travel Insurance
If you plan your trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, there are several things to consider.
First of all, the trails are challenging, weather can change rapidly, and you'll be hiking at a high altitude - and unfortunately, mishaps happen. Plus, the highest point on Annapurna Circuit is 5416 meters above sea level.
When it comes to travel insurance, we never travel without it. It is not just us who think that travel insurance is important. The Nepalese government requires having insurance.
For your safety, it should cover sports activities and climb above 5000 meters.
Having a travel insurance number is even compulsory when filling out the form in order to get Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits - TIMS and ACAP.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
KAGBENI TO JOMSOM
The way from Kabgeni to Jomson is unpaved, but luckily quite short, and we also probably took a shortcut and drove in a drying river bed. When we arrived at Jomsom, we knew there was not much to do, so we wanted to get to Pokhara immediately.
Luckily, right at the station was a bus with the engine turned on just about to leave for Pokhara.
A guy was standing at the bus door persuasively crying, "Pokhara Pokhara," so we didn't linger any longer and jumped in.
Almost immediately, we found out that there was not enough space for our legs, seats were wet, the ride was extremely uncomfortable. In less than five minutes, we quickly realized that this is going to be a painful ride, as the bus was rocking from side to side on the uneven road.
The idea of spending a minimum of 8 hours in this vehicle made us jump out before reaching the end of the village.
We decided to spend a night in Jomsom and first thing in the morning caught a jeep to Pokhara. The end of the Annapurna circuit was admittedly less romantic than we had expected, and we were certainly glad that we started this 14-day adventure in Besisahar.
ACAP is working hard on creating New Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT). The road construction especially heavily impacted the trail from Muktinath to Jomsom, so it is a great idea to bypass this section and still enjoy the beauty of the area.
When we did the trek in April 2017, NATT's markings were still in progress and had gaps; therefore, we ended the hike in Kagbeni.
The best decision would be to walk from Ranipauwa to Kagbeni (check the option to avoid the road by hiking on the other side of the valley, but permission was required) and then go by jeep Jomsom and continue the hike from there to Pokhara.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
