Annapurna Circuit: Hiking from Tilicho Lake Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Read our Annapurna Circuit travel guide on getting from Tilicho Lake Base Camp to Thorong Phedi via Yak Kharka and Upper Khangsar. We also share tips on acclimatization before crossing Thorong La, accommodation, trail description, and what to pack.
The trip from Manang via Yak Kharka to Thorong Pedi is wonderful as the Himalayas scenery is simply breathtaking. It is often unbelievable that you are almost at 4000 meters, and there are still so many snow-capped mountains towering above you.
But it is also good to know that this part of the multi-day Annapurna Circuit Trek is super-important.
When you start gaining altitude, you have to walk slow and steady to make it to Thorong Pedi, which is the last stop before crossing Thorong La Pass, the highest point on the entire loop.
We did not walk the traditional route from Manang to Thorong Pedi, which usually takes two days, but we instead took a detour via Tilicho Lake, which is a worthwhile side trip.
That's why this travel guide includes tips on how to get in two days from Tilicho Base Camp via Yak Kharka to Thorong Pedi, but the detour from Manang took us actually five days.
So make sure your Annapurna Circuit itinerary is flexible.
TILICHO BASE CAMP TO YAK KHARKA
We woke up early in the morning at Tilicho Base Camp, and the weather was still freezing and overcast, with only a few sun rays shyly piercing the rain clouds.
It snowed overnight but not that much, probably five centimeters. To get to Yak Kharka, we had to walk the same narrow and possibly dangerous path across the steep slopes back to Shri Kharka.
The trail was deserted, and only from time to time, we had to move out of the way to give more space to the men with mules loaded with large supplies passing by on their route to Base Camp.
Right behind Shri Kharka, on the way to Khangsar, there is a turn off to the left leading uphill to Upper Khangsar.
It was a steady climb, the weather was getting worse, and when we reached Upper Khangsar, we found ourselves in the middle of another abandoned ghost village.
The feeling of emptiness was even more intense with the gloomy clouds rolling over the mountains.
DAY BY DAY ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREK GUIDE
Part 1: Besisahar to Chame
Part 2: Chame to Manang
Part 3: Acclimatization in Manang Area
Part 4: Tilicho Lake Side Trip
Part 5: Tilicho Base Camp to Thorong Phedi
Part 6: Crossing the Thorong La Pass
Part 7: Ranipauwa to Jomsom
From Upper Khangsar, we followed a narrow path along a stone wall, and when we got to the edge of the ridge, the trail abruptly turned down.
We found out that we have to descend more than 300 meters to the bottom of Thorong Khola Valley only to cross the bridge over a small creek and then ascend again and finally rejoin the main road leading from Manang.
At some point, it started to rain, and then the rain turned into wet snow, so today was the first day we had limited views caused by the bad weather.
From the small junction, it didn't take long to get to Yak Kharka.
When we found a tea house at Yak Kharka with available rooms, we asked for a bucket with hot water immediately as we wanted to take a shower and had to pay an additional fee for it.
Let's say taking a shower in freezing conditions requires a certain degree of self-determination and is not very enjoyable.
It snowed harder and harder throughout the afternoon and during the evening, and it kept snowing all night despite the weather forecast.
We could sense the tension among other hikers at dinner because the long anticipating day of crossing Thorong La Pass drew near, and the weather was getting worse and worse.
This hike from Tilicho Base Camp to Yak Kharka showed us how the weather in the mountains could change within a few seconds, and we were glad we listened to packing tips for the Annapurna Circuit.
As it was our second week on the Annapurna Circuit, we already knew that we must have rain jackets and a fleece jacket available all the time, and it was also crucial to keep our spare clothes dry.
That's why we used larger dry sacks to ensure our socks will be dry. We did the same with our electronics.
Staying hydrated in the high altitude is crucial, so keep your water bottle with integrated filter within reach even on a freezing day.
Travel Insurance
If you plan your trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, there are several things to consider.
First of all, the trails are challenging, weather can change rapidly, and you'll be hiking at a high altitude - and unfortunately, mishaps happen. Plus, the highest point on Annapurna Circuit is 5416 meters above sea level.
When it comes to travel insurance, we never travel without it. It is not just us who think that travel insurance is important. The Nepalese government requires having insurance.
For your safety, it should cover sports activities and climb above 5000 meters.
Having a travel insurance number is even compulsory when filling out the form in order to get Annapurna Circuit Trekking Permits - TIMS and ACAP.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
YAK KHARKA TO THORONG PEDI
In the morning, we unfolded the curtain, saw a clear blue sky, and found out we woke up in entirely different scenery.
Martin grabbed his sneakers and ran out to catch the first sun rays falling on Annapurna III, which was hidden yesterday all day.
As it turned out, running outside in the deep snow was not the smartest idea, but it was actually why we had sneakers for the free time and waterproof hiking boots for the actual hike.
After breakfast, we left the village, which was now half-buried under the snow. By the way, you should be fairly acclimated by now, so the walk should be not that hard.
Fortunately, the path is widely in use by locals and their herds of yaks, so it was passable.
Yak Kharka in translation means Yak Pastures, and you can see yak animals everywhere around because this species has adapted to live in high altitudes.
Yaks usually don't live lower than 3000 meters because the air is too thick to breathe for them and they also suffer from heat exhaustion in temperatures above 15 °C.
The trail from Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi was not long neither steep, and thanks to the snow blanket around us, it was exceptional, and we had plenty of time to enjoy the Himalayas at their best.
We walked the path for about an hour, and then we crossed a suspension bridge built recently by ACAP because of trekkers' safety as the true left bank of a river became prone to landslides and rockfalls.
Despite the unexpected detour which took us to the more stable side of the valley, we arrived at a point where was a lineup, and we had to stop because of loose rocks falling from the hill above.
Everyone had to wait until the person ahead got safely to the other side.
We tried to "run" the whole stretch. Needless to say, it wasn't the best idea at this elevation (we were not by any means faster, just breathed more heavily).
Thorong Phedi is right behind this potentially dangerous and tricky section.
Once we got there, we accommodated ourselves in the Thorong Phedi upper lodge and spent the rest of the day eating sweets from the local bakery, drying our clothes in the sun, drinking tea, and gathering strength for Thorong La Pass.
It is true that the higher you get, the less comfortable the accommodation is, which is quite understandable.
However, we were happy we took both silk liners and high quality down sleeping bags, that kept us warm in our room (and throughout the entire Annapurna Circuit).
On the other hand, the common area slash restaurant was heated, so we sat there in the evening and just hoped the next day's weather and our strength would let us cross the Thorong La that lies 5416 meters above sea level.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
